Jonny_VRS89

Yes! Number 17. Thank you so much dude!

Thank you, I really appreciate it

Thanks for the replies, that diagram would be really helpful if you know where there is one for the intake pipe? As in from the airbox to the turbo. I can take a pic later of the position of the sea if it helps visualise where it is. many thanks

My sister runs a golf mk6 1.4 tsi 160, so it’s the twincharged version, same as the fabia vrs. It’s got an air leak from the plastic intake pipe, where the plastic pipe from the turbo connects to another pipe. There’s a rubber ring that sits between them which makes the pipe air tight, this has failed, does anybody have any idea of a part number of what it’s actual name is? I’ve tried searching on google with various phrases but without any luck. Any help is much appreciated.

I’d just use a decent brand dot 4, I’m going to put pagid in mine next week. If its for aesthetics, I’d use grooved ones as they do actually have a purpose. Fronts are 312mm I believe and rears seem to range from 288mm, 282mm, as low as 272mm online. I think Skoda state 282 mm but I’ve not changed the discs on the octy so I’m not sure which it actually is so hopefully someone will be able to clarify that for you.

Not sure why you’d want to travel 1.5 hours when there’s some very good alternatives much much closer by, but if you prefer going that way then fair enough. Now most people have an opinion on brakes, a lot of it is marketing lead that you need 15 piston 500mm discs with every shaped hole you can think of but in reality you don’t. Now I’m talking road cars here and not track cars. All a brake has to do is stop the wheel turning, the tyre is what will actually stop you. So if your brakes can stop the wheel turning in the required distance from the required speed they’re up to the job. Unless you change the weight of a car (increase it) or change the terminal speed when you brake (going 90 into a corner than 60) then they’ll be fine. brake fluid, dot 4 is perfect for road use. You don’t need anything more for road use unless you’re escaping from the police, you shouldn’t be boiling your brake fluid on the road unless you can’t drive properly or are driving like a completely lunatic. Different story on track. Brake discs, plain discs are completely fine for road use. Drilled is pointless on a road car, it’s just to look good, the tiny unsprung weight saving is totally negligible and just makes the disc more prone to cracks. Grooves do help clear crap off the disc but you don’t NEED them. Calipers, if it stops the wheel then they’re fine. Brake pads do make a difference, track specific pads are dumb on a road car as they need more heat to work properly, you’ll have poor braking in the winter. Personally I find the brakes pretty decent on the octy for a road car, refreshed brake fluid (so often neglected by people) good quality pads and you’ll be fine. Rear “big brake kits” are pointless, the weight transfers to the front when braking, you only need to stop the rear wheel turning. I expect some people will disagree with what I say, but unfortunately marketing has had an effect on what we think is actually good for performance, same for rock hard suspension and massive wheels with rubber band profile tyres. Refresh your brake fluid and fit good quality pads and see what you think.

I’ve ordered one so hopefully that solves the problem. If not I’m guessing it’s back pressure from blocked washer jets. Thanks for the part numbers dude

Revo are very unpredictable in the sense that it’s a franchise, so some just throw a generic map on, no rolling road and others are able to fine tune maps, rolling road etc, it depends on the place you’re actually using rather than the actual software. For example one of my old cars had a hideous map on it, no fuelling changes, 5 psi above what would be safe for that turbo, they’d tried to lock out who had mapped it but it turned out to be a revo map when it had been unlocked. My point is, use only a reputable company who use revo maps. midlandvw have a good reputation, as do RS tuning in Leeds, no experience of them myself. It’s also important to remember that even with a rolling road, company’s can artificially enhance the figures by how they calibrate the dyno. We call it ego stroker dynos. Personally in the East Midlands I would only use JBS or R-tech. Niki is a genie.

I’ve got abit of rust in my spare wheel well and a fair amount on the sill on the driver’s side just after the wheel arch :(

Yep 100% the connector, the pipe is wet because I wiped all the pipe to get the fluid that had run down with an already damp cloth. You can see it leaking out the connector when I open the boot straight after trying the rear jet. I know the wires don’t work mate or I wouldn’t be here asking for a part lol. I just couldn’t be arsed to take them off after trying. Because 1) being a skoda forum and the rear jet being a very common issue, I thought someone might know the part number and save me going down to a dealer to be ripped off for a a part that’s likely cheaper elsewhere. 2) I don’t know what the part number is or if it’s got a particular name, that’s why I can’t mail order it either. I read somewhere someone has a leak here and tried fuel clips so might give that a go.

JBS built my old S3 8L 420 bhp project. They did the entire turbo conversion and rebuilt and forged the engine. I used another tuner at the time for mapping (I’ve used him before) and I had issues with fuelling so I had JBS map it and had zero issues. They spent hours and hours data logging and tweaking my map far beyond anyone else I’ve experienced. Obviously that car was highly modified but my point is I’d only go to them for anything VAG related performance wise and highly recommend them. Don't use Derby remapping (DRS), they don’t have a dyno, don’t do data logging, they just upload generic maps with very optimistic numbers.

Hey guys, So I’ve had the infamous rear wiper jet not working, I pulled up all the carpet this afternoon and there is massive pools of washer fluid as expected in the boot. However the washer pipe hasn’t popped off the connector, so I took it off and put it back on to see if it was loose and I’ve tried the wiper jet a few times, basically it’s leaking out of the connector piece itself, it looks like the white clip is too loose or something. Does anyone know if you can just get a replacement clip? If so, from where? Any part number? Or do I need a whole new pipe? If so, how on earth do I fit it and where can I get one from? picture attached so you know exactly what I’m talking about (the metal around it was something I tried to see if it was leaking out of there) any help much appreciated.

Not something I’ve had on a car before but lost pretty much all power, huge exhaust leak. Problem has been diagnosed as the clamp that connects the turbo compressor housing and turbine housing together. Does anyone know the part number or where you can get one from? I don’t want to have to replace a perfectly good turbo for the sake of a clamp. thanks

Thanks guys I will look into them

Hi, Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it’s not something that can be diagnosed over the Internet and I plan to get it looked at but I thought after reading people with the same symptoms having no luck fixing the issue when they’ve thrown money at the likely suspects, it was worthwhile asking if anyone else has had similar symptoms and managed to fix it. Might give me a better idea if there’s a certain part etc that’s known to cause this on octy’s/golf’s etc. If anyone has had similar symptoms and managed to sort it I’d love to hear from you.