timberwolf

Right then, car left unlocked/no alarm all night, fires up first time. Lock it and its dead come the morning. Alarm fault? Is it possible to lock the car without setting the alarm? Anyone know where the alarm box is? I did suspect the alarm but it still sounded when I had the negative battery lead off so I assumed it had its own battery back up and was ok, am I wrong? I did suspect the car battery as you guys say but I think my tests have shown it not to be the case?

Checked it over on Saturday with the multimeter, 0.2ma from the battery with ignition off so all fine there. Still loosing the charge overnight though. I am thinking alarm drain or central locking now.

No bulb in the boot courtesy light mate

Could anyone tell me what circuits should have power to them at all times please? Windows? CD changer? etc. Just to give me an idea as to where to start with checking feeds in the fuse box with the ignition off.

Charged the battery last night off the car, battery still full this morning and car starts fine. Any other ideas please? Seems something must be draining it when the ignition is off.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I managed to suss the multi meter out, engine stopped 12.12v (was still charging from flat though so will probably be a higher figure). Engine running 14.25v. Come the morning it will be flat again. Any other ideas please? She has actually purchased a solar trickle charger too but not used it yet. It seems something is draining it overnight?

I shall ask her later on, thank you. RTZ62, thanks for the info, I am hopeless with electrics so may have to take it to an auto electrician if I cannot resolve the issue. The car has been running fine for months since the battery was replaced, would that rule out a broken alternator load sensing wire?

Similar issues with my gf's passenger window on her 54 plate vrs. I am also unable to get to the bottom of it. Her passenger door sometimes will not lock/unlock either. I receive constant earache about it!

Hi all, My GF has a 54 plate fabia vrs which is suffering from flat battery issues. It had a new battery last February owing to similar issues. She does not commute far and the battery keeps going flat. We had this issue last winter, could it simply be not enough miles to charge it up and the cold weather or something more sinister? Through summer etc it is fine. Her daily commute is only a couple of miles each way.

Still not sorted this issue. Any trustworthy mechanics in the North Manchester area? I need to get this done now for the M.O.T. Any links for a nearside console and/or front subframe please?

Looks like a new subframe and a nearside console then. I can see a pair of consoles on ebay for £140, anywhere else for the nearside only and a subframe? Is it a job I can undertake myself or am I best using a garage? Thanks for the replies, Phil

Have you checked your power steering fluid level? Had similar issues with my vrs, steering rack was leaking. Intermittent loss of power steering etc. I actually initially went for a new battery only to find it made no difference.

My VRS threads had gone in the aluminium console. The garage put a longer bolt through. It still knocks. The part (not sure what its called) where the head of the bolt sits has become oversized now. The bolt moves around and clunks. I think I am looking at replacing said part and also the nearside console. Anyone done this? Anyone tell me the correct name of the parts please? I aint looking forward to it. Anyone have a link to an underside parts diagram etc so I may correctly identify the parts I require? Many thanks, Phil

Hi All, My fabia vrs mk1 front passenger door is playing up and will not unlock sometimes. Even from inside it will not unlock with the handle. Any ideas please? Its not all the time but it is getting worse. Thanks

Yes Avalon, I am a little concerned about the pump too. Does 5 or 6 hours labour sound correct to swop over a steering rack? Subframe removal etc?

Thanks tom, Cars in the garage on the ramp. Had to go for a garage sourced recon @ £210. They have them on ebay for around £150 but I just felt it could end in tears if they supplied the wrong one as I believe there are different ones for the VRS? A local breaker has some for £70 but there are no guarantees and the labours more than the steering racks worth. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet If i could afford a bottle of whiskey I would sup it................

Hi All, Had power steering issues and then the battery died. After reading the forum I realised that the weak battery and power steering issues could be related. I fitted a good heavy duty battery and the problem persists. The cars currently in the garage on the ramp and the mechanic just rang to tell me the nearside steering rack boot has power steering fluid coming from it. Question is, are they repairable? Is there an O ring or similar in there? Thanks, Phil

Thanks Matt, much appreciated. I will take the car to a local garage and have him take a look on the ramp and hopefully give me an estimate. Thanks again, Phil

Thanks matt, there is a subframe at a local breakers. It says its for a diesel 6Y, is that the one? Is it a huge job to change it? I will check the info above which you kindly supplied re the power steering. Thanks, Phil

Are there any good garages for the Vrs around the manchester area? Someone who knows the cars and is interested in working on them without it costing a fortune? My girlfriend uses the car and it needs some other issues looking at too. Power steering is playing up and the battery died so after reading the topic on here we assumed they were related and purchased a new expensive battery yesterday and the powersteering is the same. Really need someone in the area who could give the car a good fettling for me as she is always on my case about it LOL. I don't expect anyone to sort it for free but some of the garages are ridiculously expensive. I just spent a small fortune having the belts changed and then some of the bushes on the front. Phil

Yes thats the one in the first pic Matt, thank you. I Imagine a subframe is expensive and a big job to swap over? As I said, the mechanic used a thick large washer to try to stop the movement but it still bangs. I was thinking if the square plate washer was welded in place the bolt would be ok? The washer is thicker than the subframe steel. We also used a slightly longer bolt. Thanks for the reply.

Its the subframe sorry, not a crossmember. The dog leg bolt goes through it. So, basically, am I looking at a new subframe and any links/ prices please?

Are there any underneath engine pics on here so I may explain myself clearer?

Hi All, I shall try to describe this as best as I can. I had a banging noise on the nearside front, turned out the car had been driven too long with the bush worn on the forward facing dog leg. The trouble is, the hole where the long bolt passes through had grown bigger due to excessive movement. The mechanic used a thick square washer to reduce the movement when they fitted a new dog leg. The trouble is, there is still movement at the head of the bolt. My question is, should I get the large square washer welded to the front crossmember or, Are the crossmembers bolt on/bolt off allowing me to replace it? Its a little hard to explain but basically its the front nearside dog leg where the head of the hexagon bolt sits. The bolt then goes through and fastens into an aluminium (subframe?) at the bulkhead. Thanks, Phil

Yeah, its sounding like the garage has cross threaded the sump then. The sump plug is brand new from the dealers. The plug does tighten up fine,its taken 40nm with no problem. I can easily put a helicoil in which would retain the original thread size but to be honest, the recoil kit is as expensive as the sump pasted on the link and it would require removal to fit one anyway. Anyone changed a sump or bought one from this guy on ebay? thanks for the replies, phil