vgnils

I looked into this the other day in erWin. This is what it says: "Technical background For Škoda vehicles of a certain production period the energy management of the vehicle battery has been optimised. Remedy On the affected vehicles the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed (see criterions)."

Will be interesting to see how the repair works out, Estate Man. My local workshop wanted to test the car when completely cold so I will leave it with them overnight some time soon to have this checked out. Apparently, this is a well-known issue with the DQ200 gearbox across the VAG brands. This Danish thread has been mentioned before and we have this and this German thread. In the first of those German threads, there is a discussion of a VW TPI 2049048/2 that acknowledges the slipping problem at less than operating temperatures, but there is no solution and the current recommendation in the TPI is to do no repair. Yesterday, I created an account at erWin Skoda to access any TPIs that have been issued for my car. Interestingly, there is a TPI 2050318/2 released 5 March 2018 that acknowledges the slipping problem at less than operating temperatures, but the recommended repair in the Skoda version of the TPI is replacing the clutches, update the software and perform a "basic setting" of the gearbox. Very strange that VW and Skoda have different repair guidelines for what seems to be identical issues...!

The same slip issue here as well. Early my2016, built June 2015. Had the car for about two months, done 29 000 km now. Will take it to the dealer and let them have a look.

Update: The dealer has had a look at this and they found a faulty "frequency filter", but said they wanted to replace all the wiring in the rear hatch to be sure. Will be done in the beginning of March - I hope it solves the problem.

Will definitely try to have it fixed under warranty. But also seems that this is an inherent problem in some designs, see this thread on Volvo: http://www.volvov40club.com/forums/7-volvo-v40-general-discussion/12442-weird-problem-dab-2.html

@Dithane My estate has the same gaps - thanks for posting and confirming it's normal. I was wondering if these gaps could have something to do with my DAB radio going silent when turning on the rear heater elements.

Found a few threads that show it's happening to Skodas too: But it's not clear whether this is really an indication of something faulty or if it is normal behaviour when reception is poor to begin with.

A windy and not very high-pitched howl around 1500 - 2000 rpm, when accelerating (even light acceleration). A rush of air is also a good description. I guess it may be normal, then! Will still check with the dealer when time for service.

Thanks! Unfortunately, the video recordings in those threads are gone so I can't compare with my sound, but I definitely still have the corrugated pipe that was replaced with a smooth one to solve the problem in this thread. I wouldn't describe my sound as high-pitched though, more like a throaty owl hoot... Guess I have to try to record it!

Anyone else experienced this? I noticed today that when activating the rear window heater, the DAB radio went silent immediately. Came back when I turned the heater off. Leaving the heater on, the signal slowly returned, but was unstable. I can see from googling that this is a common problem across many brands and also for FM radio. Causes suggested include poor earth connection and/or damaged rear windows heater wires, or simply interference because of closeness of antenna and rear heater wires (more likely to happen if radio signal is weak to begin with). Some have had rear windows replaced under warranty and this solved the problem; others have been told this is normal. So what's the case with the Fabia Mk3...? Where's the antenna located? I have an estate with a panoramic roof.

@krigl Actually, owl hoot may be an accurate description! Not particularly high-pitched and with a blowing/windy quality to it. Hard to describe sounds... Googling owl hoot + turbo throws up a lot of results, but not much relating to the 1.2 TSI.

Hi, I recently bought a used Fabia estate 1.2 TSI 110hp DSG, model year 2016 built in June 2015 (26 000 km / 16 000 miles). Pretty happy with it, but this is my first car with a turbo and I am wondering if the noises I am hearing are normal... On light acceleration, roughly between 1500 to 2000 rpm, the engine sound changes from a normal "rolling vroom"-sound to more of a "continuous oohh"-sound, if that makes any sense to you It doesn't seem to happen 100 % consistently, i.e. not on every acceleration. It's not loud or particularly intrusive, either, just a change in tone. So is this normal for a 1.2 TSI? Is it the turbo I am hearing? I thought I would ask the forum, but will of course also ask the dealer when it's time for service in a few months. Car is still under warranty.

Just went to an independent workshop that was open today, and the fault codes showed the passenger airbag switch had been giving strange signals. Deleted the fault and it has not come back yet, so hopefully it stays that way until I can have the switch replaced.

It was indeed built early 2013 (or at least I took delivery late January). I've had one recall, but that was related to a control unit for the engine fan?

My airbag warning light is now on whenever the ignition is on. It started after the light for the "passenger airbag off" symbol turned on for a brief while, before it came off again. Never touched the switched for the passenger airbag. It all sounds very similar to these experiences: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/367990-airbag-warning-light/ http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/342877-passenger-airbag-lamp-bad-switch/ The question is; how likely is it that there will be an airbag malfunction in a crash if the warning light is due to a bad switch for the passenger airbag? I was planning to take the car for a vacation trip tomorrow, but not sure I want to do that if I have no airbags...

This is true - it's really flexible around 100 - 110 km/h!

If in fact there is 43+ L of petrol to burn, then 500 miles should be well within reach I wonder if there are differences in tank volumes? When I fill my Citigo up immediately after the fuel light comes on, I can add about 32 L. Could there be another 11+ L of reserve volume...?!

Fantastic! What kind of driving/traffic conditions was this?

haha. No cheating here I think the average downhill grade was only about 0.3 %, but it definitely matters over such a long distance. Also, I do very little city driving, which of course helps economy a lot.

Sounds good - I'll try to do it myself then! The dealer was asking the equivalent of 130 GBP, but I can get it for around 80 GBP from an independent webshop here in Norway. I could probably find it on ebay as well, but want to absolutely sure that I get one for LHD vehicles (apparently, they are different in LHD and RHD vehicles).

Great, thanks! Seems quite easy. When I asked the dealer about the price of the headlight unit, he told me that the repair manual says this is a bumper-off job. Any idea why? Could it be different for the other side of the car? My cracked light is on the left side of a LHD car.

Don't go through too much trouble. Even a rough sketch of the procedure will be appreciated!

The best I ever saw on the PID: 88.3 mpg (3.2 l/100 km) after a trip of 102 miles (164 km) (ever so slightly downhill). The best real-world mpg between tank-fillings was 71 mpg or 3.98 l/100 km (over a distance of 493 miles/793 km). Average real-world mpg since the the car was new is 61.3 mpg (4.61 l/100 km) in 34 700 miles (55 900 km). Fueling log: http://www.spritmoni...ail/553950.html Very happy with the fuel consumption of the Citigo! But there are some people on Spritmonitor with really impressive fuel economy: http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/overview/45-Skoda/1289-Citigo.html?fueltype=2 One guy with a lifetime mpg of 76.4 or 3.70 l/100 km! (in 12 700 miles / 20 500 km)

Excellent, many thanks!

I need to replace the whole headlight because of a big stone chip. Is this a simple DIY job or is it best left to the dealer?