JTG

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Ok so it seems all four of my coils are different. If I had to hazard a guess I would say that one of them is genuine, the rest aren't. One had a code on it that ended in a 'K' (I assume this is an original), one had no marking on it at all, but did have a letter engraved on to the metal, one was a Bosch coil and the final one I have pictured below, I assume this is an aftermarket replacement? This leaves me with two final questions, am I right in thinking every single coil, if original, will have the same markings on it? Finally, does anybody have some original coils hanging around they don't want? Thanks again.

Excellent, thanks for that.

Ok that's great, thanks. Sounds easy enough. Is it easy to get to?

Hi all, I've searched for he answers to these questions but haven't been able to find what I'm after. First of all, I would like to get my coil packs changed under the recall, but am not sure if mine are original parts or not. I assume VW don't use Bosch coil packs? How do I tell if they are the original ones or not? Secondly, I want to drain my power steering fluid so that I can make sure it has all the correct stuff in it, but am unsure where to drain from. Can anybody point me in the right direction to correctly drain my power steering fluid? Thanks.

Ha. I had one of these come free in glove box when I bought the car Always wondered what it was for.

Well, this is now sold and on it's way to Belgium. It may possibly be the only VR-4 in Belgium apparently.

Remembering the old Top Gear episode in America leads me to the Chevrolet Camaro RS! Haha

Off the top of my head, Porsche, Audi and Mitsubishi. Pretty sure Mercedes and Renault have used RS on some models. Oh, Aston Martin. RS surely has to be one of the most common tags for higher spec production cars....

That's quite strange, given that the RS tag has been used on many cars over the years.

Supposedly comes with a dvd with over 15,000 maps on it though. Question is would a default vrs one be any good? Surely it would need to be tailored to the individual car... But then isn't a revo map just a default map loaded onto the car?

Has anybody used one of these KWP2000 self remapping tools? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KWP2000-PLUS-ECU-Remap-Remapping-Tool-Flasher-Flashing-/160643092738?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2567131102 Are they actually a viable budget remap option for the vRS?

I would be interested in a meet in Norfolk or Norfolk side of Suffolk.

I've no idea. I can see what you're saying though. I bought the car from Peterborough.

Forgot to mention, this is MOT'd until June 7th 2012, Taxed until December 31st 2011 and has done approx 90,000 miles.

For sale is my much loved Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Type S facelift. It's a 2.5 litre twin turbo, four wheel drive automatic saloon. Being the Type S it has the Active Yaw Control. 280bhp. The car has always been kept completely standard with the exception of Evo Brembo brake upgrade (with very good discs and pads), Evo 6 alloy wheels and a stainless steel cat back exhaust. Since I bought the car around April last year the car has been very well maintained. All work has been carried out by a RalliArt trained technician as and when necessary. It had a huge service when I bought it replacing pretty much all of the main serviceable parts including: All belts (inc tensioner + pulley) Water pump Coolant replaced New K+N panel air filter Iridium spark plugs Brakes inc new fluid. Tyres The gearbox had a minor oil leak when I bought the car and so earlier this year I had the gearbox removed, opened up and had it fully serviced, replacing all of the seals. This was a massive job. Since I have owned the car the engine oil has been changed on a 6 monthly basis and currently has Amsoil in it. It is due an oil change now which I plan on having done this week. If not, Amsoil and filter will be provided for the new buyer. I have tried to list the major work that I've had done on the car, all other maintenance has been carried out as and when necessary since I have owned the car. Bottom line is the car is mechanically sound and will not require any costly servicing for some time. The car is HPI clear. Bad points The car has some of the usual parking/trolley dents, of which can be easily removed by dent devils or similar. The alloy wheels are in need of a refurb. The car has a patch of rust (couple of inches) on the end of the bonnet and a similar sized patch of rust at the bottom of the passenger side rear door rather strangely. I can't think of any other bad points right now but will update accordingly if anything comes to mind. I absolutely love this car but finances mean I need to sell it, would love it to go to a good, appreciative home. Price: £3,000 ono. Please feel free to ask any questions.

For what it's worth, here's a quick pick of my newly acquired vRS and my still to be sold VR-4.....

Looks good Bowders. How much would you want for the pipe that you believe to be my problem with the air leak, which sounds quite severe by the way so I want to try and get it done as soon as possible. Also, I tried to have a look under the plastic cover today and I'm really not any closer to knowing which pipe it is, though the following one looks similar. Can you tell from the pictures if this is the pipe? Also, any reason why it is completely covered in oil/grease while others aren't? Cheers.

That was a heavily soiled, rusted steel mesh one. I replaced it with a pipercross yesterday but I am not happy with the cold air feed to it so will doing something with the passenger side bottom grill bit do increase airflow.

Excellent I thought I read somewhere about a controller replacing the N75 (not that I know what that is!), that's why I asked. Thanks again gents. And is there I guide on here for installing a boost gauge? I have looked but struggle to find the guides people say are on here.

Can anybody help me out with the boost controller removal as above? Thanks.

Ok, I only managed to get the driver side arm off. Gave up with the other and broke the drivers one putting it back in by over tightening the nut. So now I need a new arm. Brilliant.

Hi all, is there a trick or particular technique to remove the windscreen wipers? I've undone the boltS but the wiper arms appears to be stuck on with some kind of super adhesive previously unknown to man. I've sprayed some gt85 hoping this will help loosen them up a bit. Is it just a case of brute strength? I'm wanting to replace my pollen filter ad at the same time clean up any gunk lurking under the plastic covery thingy.

Thanks for the help Bowders1, I will probably take you up on the offer of that pipe. Don't think that's something I'll be able to do myself though, unless it's literally a case of just a few screws. I will be taking the boost controller off then, but can anybody tell me how I go about doing this? What do I put in it's place (if anything)? Thanks for the oil recommendation wayned, I have some 10w30 Amsoil sitting in the garage but I think I'll go with that Quantum stuff, only from ebay because I'm cheap like that. :yes: Thanks again, this is all really helpful.

Ok, it turns out that the boost controller was closed entirely, so there's a good chance I could actually be under boosting, though it feels too quick for this to be the case. Also, with the boost controller in the pic in question 5, is something supposed to be connected to the bottom part of it? Is this maybe where the hosing could go for a boost gauge? If I want to remove the boost controller, what do I need to replace it with and would this potentially affect any remap that the car could have had? And finally, is there any way of telling whether or not the car has been remapped already? Thanks.