Lofty79

Could be HG. Lifting when under boost. And allowing things to heat up.

I've now got VCDS 17.8.1 or something and has long coding and advanced measurements. Looking at injector deviation and it appears from the symbol to run iu instead of mg/str. Can anyone tell me the tolerances expected in iu? Or whatever the symbol means lol Thanks

Nah it's flammable so would combust with the rest of it. But yes of course if it worries you, don't use it.

Mr muscle freeing up soot won't affect the dpf. Its designed to cope with soot. Up to 25grams in a single regen. Archoille is an additive with cleaners and lubricant that lowers emissions. The main part is 2-ehn which is an octane booster, this can be bought from a chemical company alot cheaper and can be used 1000:1 mix. It does help a little, Especially cold starts Just a point to note. Mr muscle doesn't really help unless your turbo is VNT. Normally dpf cars create enough heat to keep the turbo clean anyway. I would suggest if you were getting limp mode that you need to adjust driving style and/or do some longer trips at 75+ mph

I hate stop start. However OCD makes me want to find the answer, so if there's a fault, I can fix it.......... Then disable it haha. It's just the charging system is so complex that if the battery isn't playing ball, the ecu doesn't know how much charge the alternator needs supply it. This can cause burned out AGM battery or knackered altenator. Not easy things to get to grips with these modern systems. Vcds coming back to me soon (leant it out) so will full system scan it. Battery holds charge for long periods though and starts perfectly so not sure it'll be that bad. Could also be remap interfering but it has stop started since Then. My motto has always been "if it ain't broke, fix it until it is"

So my start stop system isn't working, I get "engine must run" and then when the conditions are more suitable (warm engine etc) it just says "error stop start". Everything else works fine and starting fine. Just the stop start doesn't work. It did once in last week, but then doesn't again. I've decided it's maybe time to replace the battery. Going to go 70Ah AGM. Will this battery need coding? Or will it function ok just fitted. Any other suggestions as to why the stop start isn't working? Or am I heading in the right direction. Cheers folks

I like yuasa Have never had one die on me

Yeah what year is the car? Early 2006 through 57 plate had issues with oil pump as it has a square key way off the balancing shaft that would wear and spin and the oil pump would fail. They then changed that to a hexagonal key way and that one stripped teeth on the gear. Late 2007 onwards they upgraded the pump

Some folk get dpf delete done and egr in mapping and Then smash out the insides of the dpf so a new pipe doesn't need to be made.

Just wondering how long coolant sat in the sump for. Hope it's something simple. Has yours got the revised oil pump?

Good engines now aswell

It's not how they are alligned it's the wear towards the centre. The valve top pressure on the inside of the lifter is a very small area. The wear tends to get worse towards the centre. It could be a collapsed lifter. Using a plastic stick or something stiff that won't damage lifter, you can press down on them and see if any drop down easily. They should be pretty solid. But yeah if it had broken away you would have seen scoring on the lobe. But listening to the pace of it I would say it's too fast for cam. You say head gasket was done, had much coolant landed in the oil?

Actually sounds a little fast for cam to be honest. The crank rotates twice for every single cam rotation, so, maybe a small end issue. Doesn't sound like injector to me but I stand to be corrected

On the edge of the cams there is a 45 degree chamfre all the way around, does that disappear as you get to the lobe? They can look real nice and smooth but just unable to push the valve far enough. Lifter may have also collapsed.

Sounds like cam lobe to me. If you take the intake off at the airbox, do you hear a knocking or heavy thrapping?

Sounds like your as well to keep it. You will have to go through all the mapping egr and dpf deleting which sounds like a grands worth of work.

Private will always yeild at least £1000 to £1500 more than trading What's age and mileage?

Say nothing. Only lawful thing you have to say is whether it was written off. However I think if selling privately I'd actually list it, as I see it as a plus

Find yourself a decent mapper. They can get the original file for any car and wipe and install into the ecu of needed. He looked at the two files and said all they have done is made it inject later and open the cooled egr much more. Late injection causes soot as it can't burn as completely (cooler) and cooled air from egr also filing through and increased activity. All of this is for n0x and very bad for soot. We don't test for n0x in the UK so it's a waste of time wrecking the engine for it. Egr fails cos of increased load and dpf because of increased soot. £200 to £300 should have a decent map and egr off and you'll have more power and way more mpg as Well. If they can't do a roll back they will be able to make the necessary adjustment in your current file. I'm finding the pins to make the egr activate, because if n0x testing ever does come to .uk I'll just have a switch on the dash to flick for the test and off again after. My suspiscion is the heat will be off diesels before then like it has done twice before

They bang open the egr for longer periods, cooling the combustion temps creating more soot and clogging dpf. I've had the software rolled back, egr switched off and remapped. According to vagdpf app I'm 653 miles since last regen and 7.01g soot out of the 24g until next regen. It exited last regen at 5g soot so gained 2grams over those miles. I recon 1500 miles between regens and no long journeys just the odd burst.

I'd be remapping and mapping egr off. However a dam good clean will usually help

Egr valve +1. Pull the vacuum actuator pipe and plug it, it'll throw the eml on but if it sorts it you'll know it's that. The eml will go off a day or two after reattaching.

I've always said that I'll take a high miles young car over a low mileage old car. Younger car will have had less cold starts (the critical wear stage) so the rest of that mileage has been done at high speed and mostly warm. Also the materials haven't aged, rubbers in suspension are still supple, metal in engine will have less fatigue with repeated heat up and cool down. Rubber seals and all will be still good and not brittle. So, for me, if it's cheap I'd be in. I've owned many high milers that are only a few years old and they have been as good as new!! Yet I have had similarly priced older units that have lower miles and they have been disasters.. If the numbers stack up, and the thing runs well, buy it, map it and EGR off and enjoy a much more expensive looking car

Tyre pressures first. Check for a broken spring. Age makes no difference though. Things can fail day1 with maufacturers defects

Any family members got space and or a driveway. Store your cleaning stuff there and wash when you visit.