ExHondaMan

Cheers guys, thought it might save me some time. Looks like I need to get the MDF and jigsaw out after all

Just looking to get a bit more meat into my audio I want to try 6x9s in the back instead of the 5.25" I have in my L&K hatchback. Thought about cutting or buying MDF adaptors but then I found some 5.25 -> 6x9 adaptors which look simple, cheap and made for the job. This listing has the best pics but other listings sell them for £7.48 delivered http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251299209516?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Looks like I'd need to shave off a bit of material to get them past the seatbelt reels, has anyone had a go using these before? Cheers

I won't go that far as it'll be the wife's car, but a Pipercross or K&N panel filter will go in, when it needs pipes it'll be up to Charlie in ProSpeed to make it extra-fruity Gotta sell the Grandis first of course. Someone is bound to buy it, I did!

No complaints from me on fuel usage, the smile you get every time you drive makes it worthwhile. It's a 1.8 tonne car so even the diesel isn't cheap to feed. The 2.7 Hyundai has almost the same economy / tax / performance as the 2.0, the 2.7 is slightly cheaper to buy and has a 6-speed manual. The V6 makes great noises too They do a 1.6 litre option, 0-60 in twelve seconds... I'd only drive V8s if I had my way. I've had a couple of holidays in Aus and that V8 burble just makes me happy :love: Personally I'm very happy with the 20v Turbo in the Octy, although it's too quiet. My push bikes cost more than my car, so it's just a case of priorities for me

I'd rather walk than drive a diesel so it was a no-brainer for me. Smooth, fast, quiet and it sounds sweet when you rev it too It was 2k cheaper than a diesel when we bought it, so over 4 years I rekon it's cost about the same as the oil-burner AND been much nicer to drive for the entire time :sun: If nobody buys the Grandis we'll just keep enjoying it. She fancies a Hyundai Coupe and we'll probably get the 2.7

I took Friday to get some buffing done too, sadly it was the wife's car so it could go on eBay: Octavia's still filthy

PM'd

If it's not already gone or corroded beyond use, I need the driver's door loom and door-control unit for my L&K. I'll take either part alone if you don't have both. See my Wanted post here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/301761-octy-1-door-control-unit-for-my-53-plate-lk/ Cheers!

I put Infinity speakers in mine after I ripped out the amp / sub etc, still sounding great after a couple of years frequently running at maximum near-distortion volume. Can't say I've compared it to another install to know how it measures up TBH. I did components all round but I should have put 2-way in the back, got tweeters on top of the shelves now :wonder: The tweeters do fit the front-door mounts without cutting & stuff which is nice, with fingers crossed and a shove . I set the crossovers to -3Db for each tweeter, took the sharp edge off. Looks like they've gone up a few notes since I bought mine: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INFINITY-REF-6530cs-16-5cm-2-way-270W-Component-Speaker-/260848529974?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item3cbbc8b236 One thing I certainly did right was bypass the car's own speaker wiring. I pulled the speaker feeds from the ISO block and connected a few yards of proper speaker wire on. That runs straight to the crossovers in each corner of the car and is easily hidden under the carpet-edge trim for the rears. Leave all the power cables etc in the ISO block so that'll just plug in. You're not chopping anything except a £2 ISO lead, and it can all go back to stock easily too

Will do! I'll get some ordered now so it's on-hand for whatever repair I achieve.

PM sent to Oet, fingers crossed! A fresh door loom sounds like a great plan, wonder what the main stealer would want for one... I did bend that pin back and even managed to plug the connector in a couple of times without flattening it again. It seems very fragile so I'll have that one replaced if I go that way. Looks like the lower pin in the centre row is just gone though, and I'm not sure there's even any metal on the other side of the connector to receive it! Should have taken a better photo of that side. Lets see if I can get any parts and go from there but I think a decent auto-electrician should be able to fix mine anyway. I'm planning to go with cling-film wrap once it's working, mainly because I can easily remove it should I have issues later. How's that for confidence!?

Took a step backwards today, found this in the DCU plug...

Yeah thanks for that link, it sent me back into the door and i found the cabling that gets worn had lost some of it's wrapping. Not enough to cause issues so I just wrapped it and tucked it back in. Had another look in the door control unit plug while I was there (previously confirmed good by my spanner-man), and found one missing pin and another folded flat! At least I can see something to fix now...

I'm kind of in the same place. Had weird window and lock behaviour for 2 weeks (switch off engine and all the windows open), and I've just my corroded control unit cleaned up which has sorted that. The driver's door lock (which was remote-unlocking just fine this morning), is now doing the same as yours. I also had the red LED atop the driver's door permanently on. Now it's permanently off, which probably means something to someone. I'll keep an eye on your thread, if I learn anything valuable I'll let you know.

Cheers for that, all he had time for today was the quick clean. He hadn't even tested it when I arrived and took the keys back! He has got diagnostic stuff so we'll get it scanned and go from there. Might as well start a new thread requesting some non-FUBAR parts. Be good to have spares to use on the day, he can decide whether to repair or replace. Thanks again, I'd be clueless on my own. I'm just happy the windows stay up right now!