Harpoon

^A quick update. After fitting the refurbed MAF, the engine was still sputtering, so with the engine running i removed the HT lead for spark plug 1, nothing happened so I removed the spark plug, have a look at this!

Just for a comparison I've attached a photo of the two MAFs that i ordered. The MAF on the lhs is part no. 06A 906 461 & the rhs part no. is 06A 906 461 B Neway, I fitted a Hitachi MAF w/ the "B" and the idle improved and no sputtering, but the car is hesitating and i can heard a tick..tick...tick...

I had the exact same probs a few weeks back. I changed the thermostat and an OEM coolant temp sensor (part no. - 059919501A) and the idle improved and the temp gauge read 90c after five-mins driving. Here's the guide i used to change the thermostat for a mk1 1.6 http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/62135-coolant-thermostat-change/

Hi All, the car is sputtering and i heard this noise coming from the fuel breather pipe http://youtu.be/rmbQy__OM1w ne ideas??

Hi All, My Dads car has been running rough for awhile. I was 100% sure a new MAF was going to fix the problem, but now I'm not that sure. I was sitting in the car after about a 15-min journey, turned the ignition on and i hear this noise, like a HGV reversing in the distance. So i put no pass on it. Then i drove about 500m and i hear it again. So i popped the bonnet and the noise is coming from the charcoal canister. I put my ear up to the canister, and its the fuel tank breather hose end. I removed the end of the breather hose and i could hear the noise clearly. So, is the fuel pump knackered? or any ideas? Cheers

As far as i can see, the OEM of the MAF (06A 906 461B) for the Skoda Octavia Mk1 1.6 AKL is Hitachi, so I ordered a refurbished one earlier today. The other day the car ran sweet - no sputtering, hesitation, missing etc, but once the engine was switched off and started again she ran like a pig. I cleaned the MAF thinking that it might help - made it worse, so I disconnected the MAF - could not drive the car. So I reconnected the MAF but she is sputtering again!

Congratulations lol Seriously though, the Map sensors are not interchangeable, some are 4-pin others are 5-pin.

Ok, I'll forget about the vwvotex recoding thread I thought the same about the 'B' at the end of the part number (based on previous purchases of OEM parts where the last letter didnt make any difference to the part, maybe newer as you've just mentioned) but I have the two MAF's they are different So, moral of the story when ordering a MAF, make sure the part no. is exact!

^ this is the MAF http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-VW-Passat-B5-5-2-0-Petrol-ENGINE-CODE-AZM-MAF-P-N-06A906461B/271583011301?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D5e32c0ea39264000b26c95b328f67edc%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D20131017132637%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D221340129662with the correct part no. Will this work w/out reprogramming the ECU??

Order a refurbed Bosch Maf (part no - 06A 906 461.) Maf arrived looked like new, of course to good to be true - wrong part!!! The part no. i require is 06A 906 461B. So i searched high and low for a Bosch MAF w/ that elusive B. I don't think it exists. Now I did happen upon a Hitachi MAF, part no. 06A 906 461B, great i thought - then i read this http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5707395-Bosch-maf-to-Hitachi-maf basically if you change from a Bosch to Hitachi the ecu must be reprogrammed. Is this correct? The Hitachi MAF has the VW logo so I'm hoping that it is an OEM part. Ne thoughts?

Cheers, that's great info. The cost of a new MAF was breaking my heart!

^ Where's the best place to buy? Cheers

Hi All. The MAF has packed it in! Is the OEM MAF a Bosch? I have a aftermarket piece of crap fitted that has failed, I'm starting to think it never worked!

I just checked my Dads car, the Skoda, and my car, a VW Golf MK4 w/ a voltmeter, just for a comparison, here are the readings:- Skoda Golf Battery 12.4v 12,5v Idling 14.55 14.4 Underload 14,2 14,33 FYI, I changed the voltage regulator on both cars abut two-months ago. Any thoughts??

I had the bushes on the alternator changed about a month back. I lost the stored radio stations on the stereo the other day but just thought it was a bit odd. Could a failing alternator be causing a rough idle??

The sister of the first Roman Emperor. lol

She is a 2000 Octavia 1.6 AKL

Hi All, My Dads car is running rough to say the least. She idles at about 900rpm but will dip to around 800rpm every 30s or so. Anyway I've just notice that the Cam belt was last change at 57k and there is now 137k on the clock, and that there is a generic MAF fitted :0 Can a Cam belt go out of timing? even slightly? She is blowing a small bit of blue smoke in 1st gear as well! Ne help appreciated

Just replaced the thermostat today, and it did the trick!

Jimbling, check out this link - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5657166-Cup-holders-for-an-MK2/page3 it looks as tho the cup holder springs up and there is good clearance if an aftermarket stereo has been fitted. Hopefully this will fit, looks the job

Hi All, Looking to buy a centre console cup holder. Would a cup holder from a Fabia do? here's a link to the cup holder http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fabia-VRs-Cup-Holder-/261566432091?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ce693035b failing that ne1 have the part no' so i can cross reference it against VAG cup holders. Cheers

Hi All, I just swapped out the CTS on my Dads Octty (it's a mk1 1.6 glx.) She had a rough idle and failed the NCT/MOT on emissions. The old sensor would show either a very low reading while driving,or while idling in traffic the coolant display gauge would point pretty straight up. So i fitted the new genuine CTS today, and while its doesnt seem as erratic as the old sensor readings, it's is reading lower while driving and will rise while in traffic. Any i correct in saying that the reading from the CTS should be 110 (arrow vertical on the coolant display) once the engine has heated up and that the reading shouldnt change between stationary and moving? Cheers, Paul

^Thanks ruffday I had a quick look under the car this morning, and what has happened is that the peg on the rear silencer has come loose from the rear mounting bracket and the silencer has twisted from the pipe from the centre silencer!

She's a Mk1 Octty 1.6 GLX

Hi All, The exhaust system on my Dads car has failed, the backbox has rotate at about a 30degree angle and she is blowing quite loud! The coolant temp sensor has gone, and before the exhaust bit the dust there was blue smoke emitting from the exhaust after acceleration from a stationary position. Now, from what i have read, the blue smoke could be a sign of worn piston rings. So, did the exhaust fail because of the piston rings being worn? Or would a failing exhaust cause spluttering, rough idle,and the odd stall ? Cheers, Paul