IC3CUB3S

I have the same problem for a few years now. After reading your posts, it seems logical that the needles are forced down. If they were just cutting out, they would stay in their last position, as they do when you turn off the ignition (with fuse 15 removed). So yes, the needles are forced down in my case too. * I've resoldered the voltage regulator -> no change. * I removed fuse 15 but... most of the time, the needles are down. (I got the impression that the dash is cutting out less in the summer) * With fuse 15 plugged in, the needles are always down. Just replaced the alternator this week, needles haven't been up since... maybe because of the bad (cold) weather... I still hope to find a cure overhere (before the car is worn out :rotz: ). I refuse to buy a new dash:mad:. Anyone replaced the capacitors with success? I wonder what those guys from BBA-reman (Skoda Octavia Instrument Failure) do to solve the problem. Some guy on ebay sells "Repair Manual - Instrument Cluster Skoda Octavia" "within 2 hours, your Instrument Clusters is working again! The Manual has stood the test outstandingly and the malfunction has been repaired in every single case! " So they say.... I think he's a fraud. If not and anyone bought the manual let us know so we can enjoy driving our Octavia again. Greetingzz, IC3

Skoda Octavia 2001 I'm not planning to pay 600

Hi, A while ago there were a few threads about Dash needles dropping to zero while driving the car. Mine don't go up that often anymore. In the morning when starting the car, they might go up for a few seconds, that's it. I've started to remove the panel but haven't disconnected anything yet. If I disconnect the 2 cables to take a look inside, will I be able to start the car after reconnecting it or will it be "locked"? Secondly, what steps can we take to get this dash fixed by skoda under warranty? Greetings, ICE

If a lot of people are having the same problem, is there no way to go to SKODA and demand a solution? 480£ for a new dash, replacing it by a second hand one is not an option because there is a big chance that it will have the same problem in no time... This part isn't under any load or can't be handled in a wrong way, so why is it breaking down so often? Btw, can I remove my dash, open it and search for the problem without starting problems after putting it back ? Thanks

I would go for the air leak to, got the same symptoms on my vectra, replaced the injector spill pipes and the problem was solved. (cost me a few euros) See : http://groups.google.be/group/uk.rec.cars.maintenance/browse_frm/thread/8047aa84f5aa4da3/a02ab184d20db5d9?lnk=st&q=2.0+DTI+VECTRA+SPILL&rnum=1&hl=nl#a02ab184d20db5d9

If you had the same problem and it was fixed, can you tell us how it was fixed? (which fuse or what sensor was replaced?) Thanks

I've got exactly the same problem. 4 Needles drop to ZERO, and "Lights on" warning alarm doesn't work when the dash doesn't. It must be bad wiring as the gauges seem to work now and then, but it is indeed very annoying. And it seems that a replacement part is rather expensive.....

What do you mean with "the linkage could be seizing, either replace or strip down and clean up"? The wipers work again but there very slow, as if they get not enough current, even if there not wiping the window there slow.

Is it possible to unplugg the connector without removing the locking unit? Those pictures might be a great help. The controller on my octavia is not located on the window motor. It's located at the doorlock. Thanks already, Wim

Hi, Last year I've started a thread about problems with the central locking of my Octavia. (central locking on drivers door not working, interior light not working when driversdoor open, no "lights on" alarm...) I've opened the door (found the time) but haven't removed the unit yet. Has anyone done this? I would want to begin with checking the plug at the bottom of the CLU. Why? When I push it, everything works fine, so it is just bad wiring I suppose. But I don't manage to remove the plug from the unit.... Can anone help? Thanks

And now the windscreenwipers wont work anymore. The gauges seem to work again now and then. The wipers go up a bit but don't get to the top and thus don't return to zero position, if you help the wipers, you can get them back at zero position very slowey... I hope this isn't the start of .... bigger problems

Does anyone know if I can take the dash cluster out without having problems like recoding when I put it back? If I take it out, I can look for bad wiring or something like that. I suspect something like that because it happend once in a while and now it stays this way... unless someone has a better idea? thanks I dunno if the main battery has something to do with this, the car starts fine and runs fine, just the gauges that stay at zero

have exactly the same problem, have you found the solution yet? Thanks

Hi, A few weeks ago I noticed that the needles that indicate speed, revolutions, fuel and temperature, fell down for a second and then indicated correctly again. Now, they stopped indicating anything, they stay at zero. The illumination and warninglights still work. Does anyone have an idea? I've also still that problem with the central locking, haven't found the time yet to open up the door. Maybe they are related? (Closing the drivers door does not close the other doors, turning the key in the trunck does. Warning alarm for "light on" does not work and interior illumination doesn't go on when opening the door. I hear an irritating ticking sound in the front door) Thanks

The switch is located in the catch, it seems to be a common problem. My drivers door has the same problem, no interior light, no "lights on" buzzer.... I've ordered a technical manual so I can take the door apart and see what the problem is.