Bobmonga

Where abouts are you?

Hi All I'm replacing my front calipers and unsure about what to do with the banjo seals. I've looked around and there appears to be 3 options: 1. reuse existing. 2. reuse existing with new banjo washers. 3. replace whole brake line. Does anyone know for sure, which is right for our cars? Cheers

Hiya How much for the front callipers only + plus postage? Cheers

+1 for the brake light switch. I had the same issue. I believe that when the brake is depressed it closes the throttle.

I was thinking brake light switch too until the stalling part. I believe the brake light switch will only cause loss of power.

I initially bought a spreader tool off eBay. It was expensive and useless! An official tool maybe better. In the end I just made one out of an allen key. Worked a treat.

I'm not convinced it's the switch either, but as BrownBarge says it's only £12. I got the following for only £5.33: http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2003/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/electrical/car-switch-and-car-sensors/?464440091&1&8dad05cf8d8b3c1a1e78b57b027bbb07ab8a5bf0&000415 Now a little more expensive. It appears to be a VAG part as it has the VW/Audi stamp on it. If you do change it, they can be fiddly and can break easily. I had a test with my original switch and did indeed break it! In the end I didn't bother depressing the pedal and just pushed it in a turned.

I believe the only way to recover a code is via a skoda dealer. They have to query some database or such. ~£20 if I remember correctly.

The brake light shouldn't come on by just touching the pedal. There should be around 5mm of travel before the lights come on. I replaced my brake light switch the other week. At first I noticed my brake lights were still on after parking up. Wiggling the pedal made them go off. Eventually I started getting 'limp' mode systems. When the car thinks you're applying the brakes I guess it closes the throttle causing engine braking, aiding normal braking. You can test it in action by driving along normally with your right foot on the accelerator and then gently press the brake pedal a tiny bit with your left foot. The accelerator pedal becomes unresponsive and feels like your applying the brakes more than you are.

Finally got all the bolts and changed it. In some ways it seems better, but I think it's my imagination. The judder I sometimes get is still present. I have a feeling my clutch could be going :( (Not had it on long!).

Didn't I have your spare mounts

Having played with a couple of these gear box mounts (AP versions) I'd agree with Bowders1. They seem to have a little bit of play horizontally, that can be moved with the hand. Vertically I noticed no movement. It looks like they are designed to give a bit of movement one direction, but not the other. Assuming your mount is fine, I have no other suggestions though.

N10209603 x 2 N10516701 x 2 They should be in stock at a skoda garage for when they replace a timing belt. I bit more info can be found in this thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/311549-engine-mount-advise/ When I came to order mine they didn't have any N10516701's so had to order them in anyway. The part number is now N10516702 I believe. All four should cost about a tenner.

Yes, I'll replace them all even if it means delaying the work. I thought only the one type were stretch. Annoying as the mounts will arrive tomorrow, but I'll only have half the bolts. The first skoda chap said that all the bolts needed would be off the shelf as they use them when changing cam belts. Was surprised today when another chap said they didn't have them and would need to order them in :-( Will give them a bell tomorrow to double check.

Am I needing to replace all the bolts? I was under the impression I only needed to replace the mount-gearbox bolts. The mount-car frame bolts could be reused. Not sure now though. I was going to buy all of them, but the dealer only has the mount-gearbox in stock.

If the split is big enough it will certainly effect things. It will let air into the system when under vacuum i.e. idling will be rough. Under boost it will let the air escape so you would feel a drop in performance.

This guide should help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-_z1xoa_tk It covers the metal bracket mushtafa mentions.

Skoda quoted me £93

Thanks for the advice guys. I emailed the seller about the manufacturer and they are made by a danish company called mechanic. Very hard to Google a company called mechanic for reviews! The seller actually said that if quality was a concern, to go genuine or lemforder. Eurocarparts don't have any in stock, but I've sent them a message to see if they can get one.

Hiya I'm going to be replacing the N/S engine mount and found the following: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351042970662 Has anyone had experience of these or similar? I was thinking mounts may be one of those items best sourced from the dealer, but I don't want to pay the much higher price if there's no real difference. Cheers

I used Halfords cleaner on my seats: http://reviews.halfords.com/4028/144165/reviews.htm Worked surprisingly well. I did a seat at a time so it had chance to dry in a reasonable time.

I stand corrected. Didn't realise the parts were that cheap! Why then are sports cats so expensive? It can't cost ~£250 to weld it in especially at the point of manufacture!

I can't think of a way you could do this and save money at the same time, or is this just a quick fix for the MOT?

I had no troubles removing the bumper strip. I had the same issue as you. After a coat of clear gloss it now stays black (tried all sorts of back to black products). Just start at one end with a screw driver and a piece of cloth to protect the paint. Once the end is up, the rest just 'peels' off.

I'm not familiar with your engine, but could it be the gearbox driveshaft seal? Mine was leaking and the driveshaft was flicking it up behind the engine/turbo area.