joeboy

Headlamp washer jets and covers?

Do you have the headlamp washer jets and covers for sale?

Easiest way is to drop the back seats and get someone to listen and look with a torch while you pour a watering can over the back of the car. I had a tiny hole that was not sealed up properly at the factory just on my bumper line. Made the boot stink and fill up with water. A bit of pound shop epoxy putty stuffed in the hole and smoothed down and its sorted. Took a while to dry it all out though.

You would do better with a vag com lead if you plan to only use it on your car. The vag com (vcds) lead will give you much more accurate codes and do a lot more for you. If you just want to clear codes get a bluetooth one and use your smart phone with the torque app.

You can close the egr valve right down with vag com. If you just blank it or disconnect it you will get a fault light and code. Channel 3: EGR To decrease the EGR rate, increase the number to the highest possible value (typically 33768). This will prevent/slow down the intake manifold clogging problem and reduce smoke. Though the MAF at idle is still within specifications (370 mg/h) do not use this adaptation on the road :-) Again, this EGR setting is for off-road use only !!!

one of mine locks back but the other doesnt. I dont really need to adjust them often so just a flick back and then release works fine for me if the pins are in the linkage properly.

I found a set of injectors knocking about the garage and as they have the older type plug on the sensor injector I have never had a use for them. I had been reading about nozzles and upgrades for them but didnt fancy spending 80 quid or so on a set of bigger ones for my tdi 90 bhp. Anyway I opened the injector up and took a note of the nozzle number and when I looked it up it was from a special set of injectors that have a lower opening pressure that was fitted to some cars and then recalled to swap them and the ecu back to standard (must have been a crap idea). Anyway I found though that the nozzles were slightly bigger than the stock 90bhp ones. The stock ones are .170 and these are .185...Not as big as the 110 bhp ones but still a result. I put them into my injector bodies as the bodies they were in had the wrong spring pressures of course and the car is better I must admit, a nice free upgrade maybe its a 95bhp now.. :-)

I got my bearings for 12 quid a side and used my mates press. But if you havnt got a mate with a press then just buy a hub from the breaker and throw it on. keep your old one to fit a new bearing to if ever needed. Lets face it how many front wheel bearings have I needed to change on a quality german vehicle in my 30 years of being a mechanic. The answer is not many. Mine only needed a pair as it was fished out of a river when I bought it.

A cheap and easy fix is to just get the whole front hub from the breakers and fit that if a wheel bearing is noisey.

I would just turn it right down in vag com, the newer engines (like mine 04 alh) know when the egr has been blanked off or disconnected and show a fault code/light. I think they know how much air is passing the maf and calculate to see if the egr is working.

Just buy a bearing and seal kit off ebay for about 30 quid and recon it yourself. If its still running most often its savable. Lets face it what have you got to loose if it lasts another 12 months then your on a winner it may last another 10 years. I have rebuilt a few lately and there all perfect even with remaps. Just tippex everthing so all the shafts and nuts go back exactly the same, there were balanced in the factory so they are still balanced if put back in the same place. I am a qualified mechanic and mot tester by the way.

Sorry I have thorwn the bill. But they are easy to find from my description and pricing.

You can swing the tensioner back and use the pin again or something of similar size again.

Dont worry about the springs not locking back, Just lock the gearbox up with the pin and put the 5mm pin in the stick. Then flick the srings back and relaease them again. Try not to move any of the linkage when you flick the springs back and release them. Check the little white nylon slipper and the arm its on for slack. I just preplaced the 2 bushes and the slipper for about a fiver. My box is much better now, it was that bad before I was looking for another one. I replaced the oil with skoda stuff and changed the 2 bushes in the arm and the slipper. The white nylon slipper slider thing does not have an arrow to it on the skoda microfiche but it is available for £2.78 its just under the arm assembly no. 47 on the parts list for the linkage. The 2 bushes are 98p each and worth getting while you are there.

Mine has been knocking its rocks off for a year now but it only does it when its cold. I have another ready to fit but cant seem to get round to it.