VRSuzi

I thought I'd just post in here to keep it up to date. I have just changed this part today on my partners VRS. We have owned the car for 18 months now, and speed 1 has never worked during that time, but all others have. I always suspected the resistor but it has pretty much lived with speed 2 switched on for the entire time we have owned it (she "likes to have a flow of air at all times"...?!) and it never failed - Having read a few similar stories on here it seemed the general consensus was they either all fail within a short time, leaving just speed 4, or it's not the resistor. Since the better half is away for a few days and has left me with the car, I pulled the glove box out and removed the resistor. It had clearly failed (scorched looking, with visible broken windings, and no continuity on the pins for speed 1). I then tested the supply and definitely still had the 12V supply when speed 1 was activated. Just popped out to TPS to collect some rear caliper springs (as per the 'sticking rear caliper' thread), and while I was there I picked up a replacement resistor. I had the old one as a pattern to make sure it was correct. The part number (as read off the box in front of me now) is: 6Q0 959 263 A The price was £37.17 including the VAT. I have found them on eBay for around £10 to £20, but wanted to buy genuine, and wanted it there and then so I could plug it in before I even left the car park and make sure it worked. Which it did. She should be happy now as she has been bugging me about it since I bought her the car! Oh and I also changed the pollen filter while I was there as the old one was filthy and there was a handful of leaves wedged in behind it. (£13.86, also genuine from TPS). Just for the record, I found it much easier to leave the wiring plugged in to remove it, but when fitting the new one I left it unplugged until last. Still a very fiddly job however.

I have just this minute come in from fitting these to my partners car. Not sure how long the rear brake had been sticking but only noticed it after I adjusted the handbrake - I was more sensitive to the sound as I was convinced it was because I had over tightened the hand brake and it wasn't releasing properly. I only realised it was the caliper at fault when I disconnected the cable to that side and still had the same fault (manually pushing the operating lever on the caliper solved it, until the hand brake was applied again. I left the cable off that side until I got these springs). I went to TPS and used part numbers: 1K0615295 (Left side) 1K0615296 (Right side) Total cost was under £5 inc VAT, and they were ordered in for the next day.

Vw didn't quote me for a SMF after all. They refused to as they were never fitted with one from the factory. MF was crazy money so i bought a dmf kit from gsf for 300 plus vat . BUT the noise and vibration has all but gone now! my gf has been driving the car all week (250 miles ish) and didn't even notice anything! Shall i still replace it?! (could really do with not spending the 360 odd!!)

Doesn't matter unless the cooling vanes are also curved.

Sorry for another single mass flywheel thread, i know there are a few out there but i can't really seem to find an answer to this question. Do they all make the super loud idle chatter? If there are some that don't, which brand are these? I'm awaiting a price on a SMF kit from Volkswagen. Anyone using one of these? As per my other thread, mine has failed and it is knocking terribly. I've been looking at replacement DMF but a local mechanic said he has always gone for the SMF conversion each time he's changed one. He wasn't aware of any being any louder on idle afterwards but couldn't honestly say he'd really committed that detail to memory!

Ideal. Thanks for your replies. Do they ever fail dramatically? I'm still at the in-laws in Surrey and have to get back home to Plymouth this evening - would it last the 200 mile journey, then a few miles for the weekly commute before i can change it or should it not be driven another mile? I'm looking at replacements now and will obviously change the clutch as well but is it worth going for the single mass flywheel conversion w/clutch instead? Eliminate the issue? It is only remapped and wont be having any more performance modifications. Usually driven extremely sedately when the Mrs is driving it to work and back but I like to stretch it's legs a little every once in a while (if you get what i mean!)... Many thanks, Joel.

Hi all, My partner has a 2005 Fabia VRS, all standard other than ECU remap. I was driving through central london in the small hours last night - in the horrendous snow conditions - and as such was taking it very steady. Almost using no throttle and just controlling the car on the clutch. After 40mins or so i started noticing a rattling sound and slight knocking on the clutch pedal when it was depressed. Clutch operation was still 100% fine - no slipping and still engaging and disengaging without issue. Ten or so minutes later I began to notice (in addition to this rattle when depressed) that the clutch pedal was 'knocking' quite harshly when easing off the throttle and beginning to engine brake. Only noticeable with my foot resting slightly on the clutch pedal. Felt like the same vibrations as you experience with ABS on the brake pedal. At first i thought it might be my imagination - what with all the locking up, sliding, wheel spinning, ABS and traction control mayhem. But i've just been out and confirmed that the issue is still there and is very much real. The car still drives fine, stops and starts without issue. Clutch still operates with no fault other than this vibration. I fancy that perhaps the engine is slightly rougher/noisier on idle maybe? I'm replacing a front wheel bearing next week so would be a good time to pull the gearbox off if i can determine what the fault is and replacement parts ready to fit. Hopefully there maybe someone on here who can help out? Thanks Joel

Thanks for the replies! I think Main beam is H3 is it not?

hi folks, The main beam lights on my girlfriends VRS are shockingly bad. The lights on my old '83 polo are better! I actually think the 'full beam' warning light on the dashboard is brighter... Is this standard? The headlamp lenses look a tad clouded up with UV/age etc. Are there direct fit better bulbs that are suggested? I tried Halfrauds - they list the standard items (99p a pair with my trade card), and then they list some snazzy "much brighter" ones but these come out at £15ea even with my trade discount but i'm not convinced they'd be much better without hearing some first hand reviews? A friend keeps banging on about HID kits but i've never had any experience of these? are they any good? I've seen a few sets advertised in place for around £50 for a conversion kit. Seems like it may be the best bet? It's a 2005 VRs if that makes any difference with the lights? Thanks!

I recently had to replace the door mirror on my girfriends VRS It's a 2005 but a local scrappy had a complete unit from a 2001 comfort. Was the wrong colour but for £10 for the whole unit I went for it anyway. The coloured plastic part removes pretty easily and I'm dropping it into a local bodyshop for colour matching (luckily he's painting a few panels on another black magic fabia so will throw the mirror casing in at the same time) The wiring i found to be different, but i simply removed the plug from the broken mirror and joined this to the corresponding wiring on the replacement mirror (the colours are like-for-like). Ten minute job including removing the mirror (one bolt!), £10 for the mirror and a £10 for the bodyshop to paint it.

Hi there, Someone stole the VRS badge off the front of my Fabia Is your's still available? Thanks!