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nothills

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Everything posted by nothills

  1. Problem sorted on the brake light this morning. There are 3 x connectors in the n/s/r boot well that had corroded and need a good clean (Well better than the clean i had given them), was also advised that the boot spoiler brake light also needed connection cleaning from corrosion, boot well also had some water in it caused by a bad rear washer pipe connection (Apparently quite a common problem). Anyway all OK now and a new full MOT, Tax it next week and then finally get it on the road........yipeee
  2. Not sure if you can just change the lock ! If its like the VW Golf you normally change the whole glove box.
  3. Checked the contacts in the lamps, but its all 3 lights including the high level brake light in the spoiler are not working
  4. It was actually a used switch but it worked fine on the car i took it off today, There is only really one way it can go on
  5. Can't see a problem i use it regularly on all my cars. I've just put Cataclean in my VRS after changing the turbo to clean internals and cat, runs fine
  6. Had my VRS estate MOT'd yesterday and it failed on: 1 x number plate light not working and no brake lights including high level light. Got home, changed the number plate light bulb - OK Now the brake lights: Checked the fuse - OK Must be the brake light switch! Fitted a new one today, still no lights, had a brief look in the N/S/R boot pocket, checked the 3 x connectors all seemed ok. Any ideas anyone? I've booked it in at a local auto-electricians as i'm rubbish at car electrics, but if its potentially a simple problem I can check it.
  7. I understand stand from our local Skoda in Derby that it is a 10 year anti corrosion warranty but must be accompanied by a full service history from skoda as they do a anti corrion check when servicing the vehicle. They may be true but i'm still going to try it with my tailgate which is bubbling around the tailgate lift handle and i haven't got full skoda history
  8. Does anyone know the Part number of the ECU's that seem to be having a problem, I maybe able to help members with secondhand replacements from stock. Also the Throttle potentiometer that sits next to the clutch peddle.
  9. OK, so to just test my understanding I need to connect the original speaker feed from the headunit to the amp connection on the crossover and then the tweeter and woofer to their respective terminals on the crossover, is that right? :yes:
  10. Thats I what i thought, So back to my original point can I remove the crossovers, the front speakers including the tweeters work with the crossovers on but I keep loosing sound from them or the sound is weak
  11. I think you need a different metal base bracket and different side covers to fit in the VRS properly
  12. Didn't see any additional cabling when I fitted the head unit except for the blue/yellow/green plug (3 plugs together one)which is not connected to head unit. It looks as though there used to be a seperate amp in the sparewheel well which has been removed as there is a large gauge wire there that has been cut, and there was additional wiring to the rear speakers which had also been cut. I will try and take some pics tomorrow pm.
  13. Thats looks similar to mine, so would the crossovers have to connect to an amplifier to work properly or do they work independantly?
  14. Sorry if I sound thick :p but what do they do and can I remove them?
  15. Yes the wire for the amp has been diconnected form the battery, haven't a picture of the boxes, definatley not just a connector block. They measure approx 40mm x 100mm, they are clear plastic with electronic components in them. At one end there are 6 terminals, i think they had on them tweeter +/-, sub +/- and amplifier +/-, they were stuck to the Door card with double-sided tape, the wires come from the the main car loom ie from the sub speeaker, does that help?
  16. Swapped the red and yellow wires......perfect works a treat, thanks for that. Now its just the terminal box of electronic thingy's in the front doors do i need them?
  17. Thanks for that, why is the Skoda original cable 'pants' ? By the way definately a younger member, i'm 52 this year
  18. Whilst sorting my octy estate out, i needed to fit a new CD player as the previous owner had removed his. Wired up the CD Player but noticed sound was only faintly coming out on the drivers side main speaker and a liitle bit out of the tweeters. I then Looked in the boot and noticed the 2 rear speakers had had the wires cut so no sound, I understand that so I respliced them connected back up OK, now working fine. Now to the front. Removed the speaker covers and noticed wired spliced every where, I removed the passenger side down panel and behind it was this clear box with 6 terminals on it, labeled speaker in/out etc and amplifer. My question is: Do I need this box and is there likely to be one in the other side, obviously the amp has been removed because theres also a large gauge wire thats be cut in the boot. Is it best to just reterminate the speakers to the standard skoda loom in the doors? I'm sure that you younger members know whats what and can advise me. Please be advised I'm an old kit only just got used to using a CD instead of a tape player PS. Also the stereo is not holding the radio stations etc, every time I turn it off it seems to loose its memory, is this an easy fix?
  19. Maybe able to help with a secondhand unit, can you remove it and PM me to let me know the part number and i'll get back to you. tomorrow
  20. Love the Bora, Love the Octy Estate.....Which one will win..........theres only one way to find out..... Fight!! I've not long had my Octy estate, just replaced the Turbo, front brakes etc ready for its MOT next week, then sh'e on the road. Mines got 18" Alloys handles a treat, but has got upper and lower front strut brace. It would be good if you could put up a thread on how and what you do to replace your cambelt etc. Enjoy..
  21. Reading another thread an came across Venom motorsport,they sell tapered wheel bolts. Here is the link: http://www.venommotorsport.com/prod_category_search.php?db=bodystyling&category=Boot/Bonnet%20Lifts&make=Skoda&model=Octavia Actually I think the link is for bonnet struts but if you search the site you'll find the wheel bolts.
  22. I can't see what he could have done wrong. To change the front springs all you need to do is remove the front suspension legs by means of the 3 bolts at the top ie on the inner wing, remove the 18mm nut and bolt at the bottom of the leg, remove the drop link then prise the hub at the bottom of the leg to release the stut and pull it out. Sometimes it might be necessary to remove the bottom ball joints 3 bolts that anchor it to the wishbone, to give some downward leway to lift the strut out of the hub. The top mounts on the struts are then removed by means of the 18/19mm nut (It is best to loosen these off as the first job whilst still fitted to the car and the car is on the ground). The springs can then be removed. You would then use spring compressors for the new springs if required and refit as above in reverse, there should be no need to touch the steering track rod ends. I reckond he can only of fitted back not quite right or it needs re-tracking. You should always get it re-tracked anyway when you've changed components on the front suspension.
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