mudgery

Hi, If anyone is interested, I'm selling my beloved Octavia! I've had it for 4 years from 18,500 miles mostly longer journeys for work, plenty of motorway. Still getting good economy 55mpg + It's now at 71,600 miles. (will change a bit as it's still in use until sold) Great condition, service history (main dealer and Volks Auto Sutton). MOT'd until August 2016 It's for sale on eBay at the moment priced at £3,600. Here are a few service details... Cambelt and water pump changed (by Skoda dealer) a little while after I bought it at around 20,000 miles New battery at 40K miles DSG Oil at 40K miles and at 48K a brake fluid change 68K brake pads replaced and discs on the front and the pads on the back Also replaced the n/s and o/s front lower rear wishbone bushes. I've always used Mobil 1 engine oil. The oil and oil filter (plus any other required filters like fuel / air / pollen) have been changed at the following mileages 12K, 16K, 17.5K (by main dealer), then at 29K, 38K, 50K, 65K (since I have had it it's also been done before the service light comes on) It's got a detachable towbar (included!) and vehicle specific electrics. I fitted an AUX input on the stereo, and the bluetooth system I use with it is included. Bodywork is in good nik - no dents! So is the interior, non smoker and it's been cleaned regularly. Full size spare wheel (alloy) Faults - one of the rear park sensors is faulty so they don't work. There are a couple of very minor paint scuffs and some tiny rust spots on one wheel arch. (photos) The alloys have a few scratches. the black plastic is peeling off the electric window buttons on drivers side (a common fault!) Tread is low on one of the front tyres, but there is plenty of tread left on the spare. Some pics attached, message me if you want any more info or want to see the car and I'll get back asap. Thanks! Bill

good point! following your darkside egr delete thread. interested to read how the plumbing goes with those hoses... post some pics please!

andyvee - sounds like a good move. thanks for all the advice just wondering if it is necessary to remove the egr cooler once the pipe and the map is done? Could it just remain in the system?

nice one andyvee, how does it drive now? removal of the egr cooler is the bit I have not checked out yet. any hints and tips when you do it would be a great help. Mine is due a coolant change. What order did you do the mod... map then fit pipe/blank or the other way round? just wondering if you can drive it with the delete pipe on but EGR not mapped out of the software?

Here is the ross tech info on it http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html There is also a post about it somewhere on here, explaining how to do it, but I can't find it right now. I just read on the ross tech info it's not a setting you can change for PD engines though :(

I had the same thing. cleaned the EGR valve out, then actually replaced it. Cured it for a couple of weeks then it was back. fitted a reduction plate and that has so far fixed it. considering an EGR delete now... http://www.briskoda....how-to-cure-it/

Thought I'd just report back with a couple of weeks of driving and no stutter since fitting the reduction plate, so it looks like it's cured it. On 2Kittys suggestion, I am naming this mod 'The Jordan' I read in another post that with VCDS you can reduce the amount of gas recirculation... might try that out as well, as learning more on the issue I want to reduce the amount of crap going back into the engine. How about an EGR delete...? anyone done this and recommend it? Which kit to use - pro / cons?

Fitted a reduction plate between the EGR valve and EGR pipe today. Will be testing over the weekend...

thanks daz_pd will give it a shot! secretly hoping the reduction plate doesn't work so I can go out and get myself another 40bhp found the thread for that. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/202993-pd170-stutter-issue-fixed-for-good/ they say 100% fix for the PD170... would imagine it does the job for the PD140 also - will give them a call. thanks for all the advice - will post how I get on and hope others with the same problem get it sorted!

Hi all! Hoping you might be able to help me with a drive-ability problem... I have a PD140 DSG with a stutter. Under certain conditions, usually in 3rd gear under acceleration it stutters around 1900rpm. A split second stutter, once maybe twice and then it'll pick up. Sounds like its having a bit of a cough or a stifled sneeze when it does it. The car generally has to be under load for it to happen. Now, the really annoying bit is that about 6 weeks ago I thought I had cured it. I noticed the EGR valve was blowing oil from the breather hole round the back. I took it off cleaned it up, refitted with new seals, and it helped the problem but didn't cure it. After a bit of deliberation I decided to replace the EGR valve. This appeared to cure things, until last week and about 2,000 miles of stutter free driving, it started again. No way as bad as before but it's definitely back. Just thinking what I should look at next that might be causing it? I have VCDS so can log stuff... but I'm only a beginner with it. What should I look at to try and diagnose further? Any ideas gratefully received! TIA.

Haha... Doh! and there's me thinking that's coolest reference to the 56 route Lym / so'ton! will try and pop down and say hi over the next couple of days. You can give me some polishing tips

Think it looks great as it is - don't do the spoiler... It'll spoil it. 56... At first I was thinking that was the year of the car 2006, but then with the bus connection / Lym suddenly the penny dropped! Bet you were chuffed to get that plate- have you had it long?

my home town! will look out for you when I'm down this weekend... '56' shouldn't be difficult to spot

I have a 2006 PD140 DSG and second Octavia5's points - Relaxing drive, seamless quick changes, great fuel economy and if you don't like the way it changes in traffic / roundabouts etc. then just drive it in Manual mode. The one small gripe I do have with it, is that it's slow to engage reverse gear. This can take you by surprise, especially when manoeuvring on an incline. You just have to remember to utilise the handbrake. 3 point turns and quick parking manoeuvres can be frustrating if you are under pressure from other waiting traffic!

thanks for a fantastic thread. Had the Interior Monitoring Sensor fault come up on my Octy, and then noticed the solid red light for 30secs when locking. Unclipped the housing, disconnected the wiring plug from the ultrasonic unit... blew the dust off, cleaned the pins with a cotton bud soaked in isopropyl alcohol, plugged it back together and hey presto - the alarm works!