Fabianski

An independent VW Group specialist confirmed the ECU is permanently malfunctioning & advises that only franchised dealers can access (on-line) the necessary security code to configure a new ECU. This is linked to the vehicle immobiliser too, so a the key/lock set is required to match a used ECU from another car. Not sure where that leaves the guys selling replacement ECUs!

Thanks for all the above offerings. The radio is standard OE, so unlikely to be the cause of the no comms. I'll certainly get a quote from an independent VW Group specialist for the ECU replacement & reconfiguring. Franchised dealer quoted £550, which is why the aftermarket option is worth considering!

2 franchised Skoda dealers said they couldn't read the codes, with whatever kit they use.

If it's likely that the ECU has a fault, is a repaired replacement a sensible option? The following link claims to repair faulty units, but how do you know the problem is not elsewhere? http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/product/skoda_fabia_ecu_engine_management_eem06033h.html

Thanks to both above. The faults codes are not accessible, as there is no communication with the ECU (via the OBD). Connections to the engine ECU appear sound with no corrosion visible on any pins. The engine idle is fairly consistent except it misses a beat approximately once every 2-3 seconds. It sometimes races (up to 2,000 rpm) when started, so it's probably worth a look at the throttle body.

The engine always cuts out when the brake pedal is pressed or a brake light bulb is removed! EPC & engine management warning lights are now on. With brake light fuse removed, it is reluctant to start but will run ok except for a misfire when under full load at low engine revs.

On a 51 plated Fabia 1.4 Comfort, the temperature control knob has erratic (usually zero) effect on internal cabin temperature, although all other HVAC functions appear to operate correctly, including distribution flaps, blower speed, recirc & A/C controls (but the illuminated A/C button doesn't produce cold air)! G-forces when cornering appear to make a difference, so I'm expecting a loose control flap to be causing the problem which is similar to the previously reported issues of permanently hot air! Assuming the air temperature is blended from heated & ambient air, is the flap actuated mechanically or electrically? How will replacing the front panel cure this? Thanks in anticipation.