Violet

Have you physically checked the water pump? You can usually tell if it's working by taking the big pipe off and water will come out in a swirly motion. The inlet pipe (on the left) to the rad should be hot - the other should be warm (on the right). Get a hose pipe, take the pipe off the engine, and blast it down the rubber pipe into the radiator with the other hose off - do it both ways through all the pipes on the rad. It really looks as though water isn't getting through properly. The other option is head gasket failure, which is by no means terminal or even expensive, but the mechanic would've spotted that.

I wouldn't recommend Hammerite 'Straight To Rust' as it is awful - it looks terrible and it chips off. Try treating it properly (ie cut it out and weld new stuff in - or go at it was a wire brush attachment and then kurust or whatever), then use zinc primer, then stone chip and then 2-pack paint on it. I did this to a subframe a couple of year's ago and it's still holding out (everything was sprayed on): MGF Subframe by Jibijib, on Flickr Primer: MGF sorting subframe by Jibijib, on Flickr MGF sorting subframe by Jibijib, on Flickr Stonechip: MGF subframe - stonechip by Jibijib, on Flickr MGF subframe - stonechip by Jibijib, on Flickr MGF Subframe - stonechip dried and complete by Jibijib, on Flickr 2-pack: Subframe painted in gloss black by Jibijib, on Flickr MGF Subframe by Jibijib, on Flickr New engine to go in it! Yay! MGF 1.8 K-series engine by Jibijib, on Flickr Always remove rust first, it'll come back, it just does ... ! :(

If you can't wait, here's the seating wia-gram for you. Without regulator (early models): With regulator (later models):

I once did a handbrake turn on Southport beach (at night with no-one around).

I'm hoping it is - I've got a few 240 mile journeys ahead of me next week for new job! Did it again today - went cold, parked up, took sensor out - loads of air and then coolant. It didn't take an MGF this long to do!

Drove for about 3/4 hour tonight and heating is constant. I'm less worried about the steam from exhaust, think I was being paranoid. I think it's bled properly now - I had a plastic elbow for the thermostat, where they metal on the SPi's? I replaced it with an MPi one (identical), but have two different CTS's - a yellow spot and a blue spot one - both are only slightly different OHMage cold and warmed up.

I'm probably speaking to myself on this now, but drained the water today, and filled it the correct way (with the CTS out), until it got to the top and then capped it, topped it up and then put the tank cap on. Had to stop on two occasions because the heater started blowing cold and each time took the CTS out and it was pure air. Heater gauge was fluctuating a lot - think steam/hot air was doing this. Seems OK now. Also steam is a lot less, think that was down to the weather. Have bought some K-seal just in case.

You'd notice any damage through oil starvation by loud banging noises. If it runs OK I'd be cautious to drive it without getting it sorted. I had the same symptoms and later found out my pick up pipe had come detached. This was after getting recovered on the motorway when my engine disintegrated. It only took 50 miles.

I can't remember the name of it, but I think you should check the oil pressure relief valve - it's located on or near the oil pump, and it released by undoing the big 'drain bolt' with an allen key.

Ah, the ol' vyjímatelný box!

The gauge does fluctuate a lot - goes to mid way and then drops, but generally stays within a certain range after a while. I've just replaced the thermostat!

Compression test is 10bar+ - approximately equal across all cylinders. There's a lot of moisture coming from the exhaust, but not as much as last night due to temperature - in fact I'm wondering if this is normal now? After a 20 minute idle test, wiping the oil cap first, the cap had condensation underneath: Skoda Felicia wet oil cap by Jibijib, on Flickr Car is definitely overfuelling though. Cylinder #2 (assume #1 is the same, I didn't take a photo) - also I couldn't take a photo in time as the needle peaked just below 11bar: Skoda Felicia - cylinder 2 by Jibijib, on Flickr Spark plug #2: Skoda Felicia - spark plug 2 by Jibijib, on Flickr Cylinder #3: Skoda Felicia - cylinder 3 by Jibijib, on Flickr Spark plug #3: Skoda Felicia - spark plug 3 by Jibijib, on Flickr Cylinder #4: Skoda Felicia - cylinder 4 by Jibijib, on Flickr Spark plug #4: Skoda Felicia - spark plug 4 by Jibijib, on Flickr Plugs were heavily sooted up - this was after wiping back to metal, and sooted up again after 20 minutes of idling. ???

Ok!

Anyone with any knowledge on this? Tried compression test this morning - it's getting 11 - 12 on cold engine on all cylinders. Smoke is still present from exhaust - there's a lot if moisture dripping from the pipe. It took about half an hour to reach max temperature where the stat opened. Going to try test on hot engine now.

I think this is bad ... White smoke all the time, and big plumes, even driving, it follows the car. Car doesn't even come close to overheating - not sure if this matters. Felicia oil cap mayonnaise by Jibijib, on Flickr Felicia white smoke by Jibijib, on Flickr Felicia white smoke by Jibijib, on Flickr

Will try that, I changed the water two weeks ago and it's not been right since. Thanks Think it's a case of hose pipe in every rubber hose with axle stands.

Having a few problems with the Felcher: Drove for about five minutes, noticed recently the car is starting to emit plumes of white smoke from exhaust. Driving home before, white smoke was coming out even while driving. It's not 'thick', but it's hard to tell what is a lot in this situation, and it's very cold out. Heater started blowing cold, and lukewarm, it has been doing this intermittently for about a week, but now it's just cold/warm. The car isn't overheating - the temp gauge goes up to halfway, and comes down when the thermostat supposedly opens. Radiator is hot/very warm after five or so minutes, coolant bottle water is freezing (it wasn't pressurised like a HG would be). Could it be blocked??? I can't figure it out. Also, no white deposit at all in oil, only a tiny, tiny bit on the oil cap (I do a lot of short driving). I'm going to have a proper look tomorrow - I bought the car for purpose of driving 200 miles a day - is this a good idea with these?

What's L&K?

Take it out, watch the thermostat fall out. If the actual thermostat isn't closing and the housing is intact, you need replace either way.

It's a Bosch relay so they come in other cars other than Skoda (VW, Audi, Vauxhall, Porsche, BMW).

It has been fine today, I only do about five miles a day in it. Think it was an airlock!

I replaced the CTS in my system t'other day, and I'm not getting decent heating like I used to (ie it's not like a blast furnace) When I brake, I could feel the hot air go freezing cold, and then return to normal. I had this on my MGF and it was an airlock, but didn't think the car would be prone to this, especially a few days after doing it. Also ... I'm getting a load of steam from the exhaust. No crud on cap though. I'm -always- paranoid about white steam from the exhaust (after a few years with a K-series).

It should sit comfortably over the 1/4 mark when driving - and you should have heat from the vents (same temperature as the surface of the sun). Felicia seems to warm up very quickly - within two minutes.