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john.errington

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    Electronics, IT, walking, playing folk music
  • Location
    Gateshead UK

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    2009 Octavia 2 estate 1.9 TDi

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  1. My 2009 Octy 2 Tdi (BXE engine) has done 150k miles. It had its EGR mapped out two years ago, after a HOST of problems - and it's run fine ever since. After the remap some whine from the turbo became very noticeable, and I think it's been getting worse recently. When I turn the engine off I can clearly hear it spool down. However, there is NO smoke form the exhaust, It's not using oil, no fault codes .. It makes me feel anxious because I dont want to be stranded with the turbo failing and costing me a fortune in repairs, so I'm wondering whether to change the turbo, fit a new or remanufactured one, or get a new CHRA fitted. Or could it just need the pipes clearing out?? Any advice appreciated.
  2. Hi Andy, yes they are working fine just paralleled with the sidelights, as described above. I've got CAN-bus compatible LEDs in the sidelights, so the current drain is just fine, no warnings. The units I've used are these; not 5W but bright enough to be easily seen in reflection from car in front in daylight. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-5W-SMD-5-LED-Daytime-Running-Car-DRL-Front-Fog-Lamp-Driving-Light-White-12V-/390600209701?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5af1963525 I'll post a pic when i have one.
  3. One of my rally cars had a seriously bright main beam indicator that could not be changed. A small piece of insulating tape over the indicator did the trick! Works for the lamp fail too. My wife has a Golf and the "lamp fail warning" lights intermittently. Check all the bulbs - they are fine, all working, no flickering. No LEDs just conventional bulbs. WTF???
  4. "Thing is they are not 50w at 12v Each led runs at around 3v at 5w (for example) so 4 of them together (in series) will run at 20w light output but still only draw 5w total at 12v." w - watts - is the amount of electricity they use (volts * amps). Light output is measured in lumens not watts - so you dont have 20 watts of light. If you could get 20W out from 5W in you could sell electricity. And you cant run 4 in series from 12V - each NEEDS 3.6V. 4 * 3.6 = 14.4V "I think these draw around 8-9 w total at 12v" so they would correctlt be 9W lights, not 50W. If the company are SELLING them as equivalent to a 50W bulb, thats different. But they arent. They are claiming they use 10 5W CREE LED chips. However a conventional 50W car headlight bulb prodiuces around 1400lm (lumens - of light) http://www.durhambats.org.uk/about_torch.htm a 9W LED produces at best only about 1000 lumens. So its still not correct.
  5. Similar issue, the fault turned out to be ONE of the number plate lamps. not obvious and not something you might think of to check!
  6. Translator - no just some mistakes corrected. 1: the resistor you use to prevent a bulb error showing simply matches the current drawn by the LED lamp to that taken by the standard filament lamp. "The normal P13W bulb has a cold resistance of about 2.7 to 3 ohms, when it is hot 21w at 13.6v is a current of just over 1.5A, which works out at 8ohms, so a 10ohm ballast resistor would not load the control unit any more than a P13W filament bulb." (Thanks Cropwell, saved me working it out) 2: "but if they are not bifilar or Ayrton-Perry wound then they would have an undesirable inductive component. This would manifest itself as an impedance at switch on as the build up of the magnetic field opposes the current. The spike would be formed when the current is switched off as the collapsing magnetic field generates a back-emf spike. This is easily quenched with a capacitor or diode. This back-emf pulse is more likely to damage the J519 unit." There I must disagree, Cropwell. A low resistance wirewound resistor is not the same as an induction coil! An ignition coil has a primary inductance of 8mH. The resistor has far fewer windings, and (this makes a BIG difference) does not have an iron core. I have measured the inductance of a 10 ohm 10W wirewound and it was around 0.0012 mH. Too small to be any more significant than the inductance of the connecting wires. (it doesnt HAVE to be a coil to have inductance) 3 so basically as far as the control unit is concerned, there is no measurable difference between an LED lamp + resistor, and a conventional bulb. And no way of "fooling" the control unit other than drawing the same amount of power as the standard bulb would consume. Shame.
  7. Unlike bulbs, which run happily at very high temperatures, LEDs need to be kept cool. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_management_of_high-power_LEDs I cant believe a "50W" LED - or even a "30W" LED bulb with a little bit of metal in an enclosed lamp would stay cool very long. Has anyone measured the current to check the wattage? "do you think they run close to the filament bulb temps"? LED lamps are destroyed when the CHIP reaches 150C. Not the housing, the chip. Halogen capsules work at over 250C!. Their useful life is dramatically reduced when the temperature exceeds 55C. Halogen capsules need to be over 250C for the halogen cycle to work!.
  8. Took the plunge, had egr mapped out & eco+ remap. 5000 miles, never a problem, good economy and goes like stink! money well spent.
  9. Now at Pulman VW who believe the fault is in the EGR cooler. I didnt even know it had one! Apparently they can get blocked.
  10. Disconnected the EGR and it worked fine for two weeks. New EGR valve and BINGO! problem solved... NOT! The old EGR was quite dirty and the exhaust gas inlet was sooty - even though it had recently been cleaned. A few longish trips later and --its doing it again!. Intermittently. Ok we've eliminated the EGR as the fault. Now the turn of the vacuum system. My reasoning - low pressure opens the EGR. Sticking open could be caused by 1: the solenoid valve not workng properly 2: problem with whatever allows air back into the EGR so it can close. FOr my readers - £470 for an EGR delete kit is looking really good value!
  11. Yeah OK £75 + etcs well spent - then £400 for a remap? I can get new EGR for £50 ebay! All I'm asking is -is it the EGR that fails, or could it be .. the solenoid valve? .. or something else?? I dont want ot go ON replacing parts!
  12. It happened again! About a year ago I started this thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/248027-misfire-and-black-smoke-on-diesel-19tdi-at-140k-miles/?hl=egr+valve#entry2948130 "For some time now my Octy has had a slight intermittent "hiccup" in low gears at around 2000 rpm. Only occasional but sometimes quite sharp. Recently there have been three or four occasions when it would not accelerate above 2k rpm. It also seems more prone to stalling." Well, it happened again. Only getting 30mpg - on a diesel! So I took it back to the garage and they put it on the diagnostics. No fault showed. and they cleaned the EGR valve. £40 Ran better but didnt cure problem Back to the garage and the tech discovered bad readings from the MAF. SO they replaced it. £140 Ran better but didnt cure problem Could it be the turbo? 2 bottles Forte Turbo cleaner in the tank £30. I can hear the improvement in the turbo. .. - but didnt cure problem. Looking back at my last thread I disconnected the egr vacuum pipe. AND THE PROBLEM - - black smoke, hiccups, no accel - has gone! MPG now 50 on a run. Getting to 70mph no bother (and beyond! shh!). Of course the engine warning light is now on. So my question - do I have a faulty EGR, or is there something that controls the vacuum feed to the egr that could be faulty? Or is the engine management system seeing the "fault" and doing something different?
  13. Its just ACHING for biohazard wanings! http://www.spreadshirt.co.uk/white-biohazard-t-shirts-C4408A6626102#/detail/6626102T6A1PC10627087PA4
  14. "LED lamps are very bright to look at, but useless as headlights" for two reasons: 1: a HID 35W lamp emits 2800 lumens from a very compact isotropic source - which is easy to focus accurately to get a similar light output from a LED you need a larger source. Its VERY expensive; and because of the size beam control is not as good. You CANNOT use a LED lamp in a headlamp unit designed for a filament lamp - the beam pattern will be cr*p. 2: when you are using 55W in a small space it gets HOT. a HID or high-efficiency Xenon filament bulb will run happily at well over 1000C. An LED will burn out if the die reaches 120C. Keeping the die cool is a problem. http://www.durhambats.org.uk/about_torch.htm http://megamanlighting.com/Technology/Thermal-Consideration
  15. Havent got a maxidot. "It's been discussed on here a lot" - strange I didnt find it when I did a search. however I've found some now! http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/263164-wing-mirror-question/page__hl__+door%20+mirrors#entry3155204 http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/266303-door-mirror-setting/page__hl__+door%20+mirrors#entry3145228 etc. I can only assume that the setting has changed as I've never noticed this before. Thanks for the help.
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