scowlsandgrowls

Recently I have noticed that when I press the accelerator with the air conditioning on I can hear an acceleration type noise from the centre vents. If I switch to econ mode (no air con) then the noise disappears. Any ideas as to what the cause of this is? The garage where I have my servicing done are suggesting a re-gas, is this likely to be the solution or are they just selling me a re-gas without knowing what the problem is? The air con works but the lowest temperature coming out of the centre vents is about 7-8 degrees which may bit a little warmer than when measured the cooling effect a year or so ago. I always run the air con at least once a week or 15-20mins.

I will soon need to replace the battery on my 11 year old 1.6 fsi L&K octavia (with zenon lights) 45000 miles. I can't see anything in the handbook as to what type or capacity battery I should buy as the replacement. Given that its the top of the range Octavia at the time (heated memory seats etc) should I be getting a battery with larger than normal capacity. Also when the battery is replaced will I lose memory settings for the seats/wing mirrors. Thanks

When I drive off and apply the brakes for the first or second time I get a sound like there is a flat tyre, probably from the rear drivers side. Afterwards the sound disappears and the car's ok for the rest of the journey. I've checked the tyre pressures and they are all ok and there appears to be no problem braking or if I have parked up for a shortwhile. I get the same problem when I drive off the next day. Any ideas as to what the problem might be? Thanks

I have a scratch (and a small dent - you can only really see it side on) on my tailgate of my Octavia. Is it worth having the dent sorted out - I don't intend the sell the car and will probably keep till it until uneconomical to run (I also have a small dent elsewhere)? The scratch I think will need sorting because I don't want to have a rust problem. Can anyone recommend a scratch repairer around the Brighton to Newhaven area or a bit further afield if mobile service - alternatively if there are ones to avoid I would be interested to know these too.

I don't think its the pads as if they were worn a warning light would come on to indicate this. From trawling the internet it may be something to do with the brake booster which assists downward pressure on the pedal.

I've noticed in the past 2-3 weeks that if I am driving a low speeds and coming to a halt I hear a sort of wooshing sound as I depress the brake and slow down and come to a halt eg taking the car out of the garage and stopping it in the drive. I don't hear the sound when driving at normal speeds and the brakes are braking the car normally. I seem to recall I had something similar years ago when i first had the car but then it stopped. My driving style is generally to anticipate the traffic ahead so i don't do much heavy braking. The car was recently serviced/MOT (Feb 13, circa 600 miles ago - I don't do much driving as I commute by bus) and there has never been any mention of any brake problems in any service since I had the car from new in 2006 (32k miles). Any ideas as to what causing the sound and is it something to take it to the garage to be looked at or is the sound normal? Thanks

On saturday morning when took car out of garage there was a leak of liquid in front of the drivers side front tyre and a strange smell - my partner liked it to nail varnish. I noticed yesterday when parked up in supermarket car park a drip coming off the drivers side front mud guard next to the tyre (headlight side). When I got home and put it in the garage I put some paper underneath the car and it definetly seemed to be coming front of the wheel when I checked this morning the paper seemed to be stained pink unless it was the newspaper running (there was a reddy pink sunset in the top half of the paper). After replaciing the paper I've noticed a further drip but so far can't make out any colour. I can't see any evidence of leaks inside the bonnet. The coolant system which is coloured pink seems ok as its above the min and almost level with the ridge going round the expansion resevoir. Any ideas as to what the leak is given the area its coming from?

My car came back from its 7th yearly fixed service and mot yesterday (32250 miles 1.6 FSI manual). On the invoice it says 'slight fluid weap from transmission area'. When I paid over the phone for the service/mot (I was at work and the car was picked up/returned to my home) the service advisor didn't even mention it. Is this something to worry about or should I just monitor the floor of my garage for leaks (I tend only to use the car at weekends as commute to work by bus) or what? I'm inclinded to phone up the garage on monday to ask them about it as to what they meant by it.

My car's handbook (Octvavia 1.6FSI 2006) says the car should be run on 98RON but it can run on 95RON. I've had the car since new. When I first filled up I used 95RON but found the engine to be a big sluggish. I switched to Shell 99RON (Optimax as it was and now V Power and which I understand cleans engines) and used it no problems since. Today I have found that my local Shell garage is closing down at the end of the week to be replaced by a BP garage. My nearest Shell garage will then be over 10 miles away across a Town that I don't normally travel through. My question therefore is what is my nearest equivalent in terms of the other brands. In my area I will have besides the BP garage a Texaco and a Sainsburys and I sometimes go by a Tesco or Asda.

Just been reviewing my service book v actual invoices. In the service book it refers to change oil filter haldex clutch - I can't see that this was done - does this only apply to 4 wheel drive vehicles - mine is 1.6FSI front wheel drive? Also the spark plugs should have been changed but don't appear to have been (or have not been charged for them). Should I get them changed at my now 6th service (30,000 miles) or wait till my 8th (estimated 40,000 miles)? what is change spare battery for the alarm recommended every 6years? Its not in the handbook but how often, if at all, should the air conditioning be recharged. I haven't had mine seen since new (2006) but it seems ok and the temperature on cold last summer seemed ok. Thanks

Had a 5th year fixed service and MOT with them in March 2011 at cost of £158. Nothing adverse to report price seemed a bit cheaper than where I paid for previously (Saunders Abbot). Helpfully they collected my car and brought it back but did have to wait 3 weeks for this to happen. More recently they refitted a battery to my remote key fob which was fine. The only problem was that the key was then out of synch and they wanted me to bring the car/keys in to put on their diagnostics m/c at an unspecified cost to fix it, whereas a call to Birchwood in Eastbourne suggested trying a few things first before getting to that expensive stage.

I looked in the car handbook about this - it said that the remote can become out of synch when replacing the battery but it was far from clear how to rectify it. I phoned up Rivervale (Brighton) my nearest dealer who actually replaced the battery and they told me that I would have to bring the car plus the 2 key fobs (spare and the one with the problem) into them to reset on their VAGCOM and that there would be a charge for this. I subsequently spoke to Birchwood (Eastbourne) and the helpful technician said that before they got to the stage of resetting on VAGCOm they would try the following: 1 – check that the old key opens and closes manually by inserting key into door to lock (anti clockwise) lock clockwise. If 1 OK do 2 and 3 below if not just try 2 2. put key into drivers door turn lock left (lock) and hold lock down for 5 secs. Do opposite to unlock. Repeat twice. If does not work 3. put good key in ignition and switch on. Then repeat as in 2 (if locks in place need to unlock manually hence 1). 4. If above fails then needs to be reset diagnostically – both keys and car required at a cost of £100 plus VAT. Anyway I am pleased to report that the key was reset using 2 above and that Birchwood's advice has saved me £120 that I presume I would have had to pay had I just driven down to Rivervale.

My remote key fob stopped working over the weekend after 5+ years I figured it was the battery. I've just had the battery replaced and it still doesn't work - the fob flashes red when you press it but it doesn't open or close the car. any ideas?

I am thinking of buying a portable sat nav for my 2006 octavia (manual). Can anyone recommend a model and advise where to install it in the car? and is there anything I should look out for when considering the purchase. thanks

phew panic over - does the chain ever need to be replaced?

When should the cambelt be changed on my 2006 octavia (1.6 petrol)? I'm sure in the manual its not for sometime and it has not been mentioned as being due when serviced at my skoda garage. A friend though has worringly told me it should have been replaced at my last service (2010) as the recommended time interval is now 4 years regardless or mileage (mine is only 21,000 to date).

I've just had my car back from it's 4th service. As I only do about 5,000 miles a year (usually just use the car at weekends as I take the bus to work each day). I thought I was on fixed servicing interval but the log book has been marked up as if the next service is to be a variable service. The invoice shows 40,000 mile service but makes no reference to spark plugs having been changed/charged. The parts section of the invoice shows longlife oil and filters presumably air/pollen. Is the service I have received correct? Thanks

My car has recently come back from its 3rd year fixed service and the petrol consumption has gone down about 13% on the trip computer. I drive very conservatively, a 34 mile trip over the weekend along mainly dual carriage way and country roads - max speed 60 recorded 38mpg whereas normally it would be around 44mpg. Any ideas what might have gone wrong - it was ok before it went into service. Also I've noticed the oil used this time seems to be different - last time it was 5W-30 this time 10W-40 has been put in - would this have any bearing? Thanks

It went for a service today and a 5051b &GFF was carried out which indicated that a new temperature vent sensor is required.....

The dealer told me that its to do with pressure - the air will go to the nearest vent first and advised to have the central vents shut - well I tried that and it didn't seem to make too much difference in my mind..

I have climatronic a/c/heating on my L&K. If I select the heat to the footwell area option the temperature of the heat seems lower than if I direct to say heat to the car (i.e coming mainly through the central or side vents). This is more noticeable when the engine is warming up from cold start - warm/hot air in central/side vents but feels cold if coming through footwell. When the engine reaches normal operating temperature the air coming through the footwell seems as hot as the other vents. Is this normal or do I need to get this looked at before my warranty expires? Thanks

its been a while since I've been on this site/forum. What has happened to the section where members left comments on dealerships?

I've just scanned a document on to my pc which I wish to password protect. Is there any way of doing this. I just want to stop anyone viewing the document by clicking on it. There is no file save as options for passwords as there is in excel/word. I don't have the writer just acrobat reader 7 on my pc, the pdf being created from my canon scanner. Thanks

I've just bought and external hard drive which came with some back up software. The transfer of data via the firewire port seems to be dreadfully slow not helped by the fact that all files copied across also have some dcm files attached to it (does not happen if use windows explorer to copy to the hard drive). Anyway about 8.6GB data took about 16 hrs to be backed up I make that less than 2 megabits a sec (8.6=8600megabytesx8=68800megabits/57600(16x60x60). is my formula right? I then tried copying a folder of photos of 145megabytes via the firewire direct to the following: internal drive - another folder - time taken 10 secs - I make that 116 megabits/sec external hard drive via firewire using windows explorer time 25 secs = 46 megabits/sex usb flash drive - 40 secs - 29 megabits/sec my pc is dual core 3.00 about 2 yrs old - the above transfer speeds seem somewhat slow compared to speeds of upto 400 megabits for sec for firewire and usb or have my maths gone awry

per tips etc :The headlights only stay on for the 30seconds or so if you have put just taken the key out of the ignition. If you dont want them to stay on when youve parked up then lock the car, unlock and lock again. I've noticed recently that the headlights don't stay on when switching ignition off. What is the procedure for having this feature come on or not or is it automatic? I have an 06 car so I don't think there is the facility to make any changes via maxidot. Thanks