Chr15py

As Vborovic says, it’s physically attached underneath the headlight cluster. Not sure if the bumper needs removing to take the headlight out... chris

Aircon is definitely not working but it is fully gassed with new compressor and condenser. Light comes on when you select Aircon but no Rev drops

Cheers for the reply guys. Where we're at: System is fully pressurised with gas. Compressor is new alongside the pressies sensor. It's is apparently seeing signal - I'll double check that when they open. Aircon buttons inside the cab light up when depressed. Car drives as you would expect it to. The revs don't seem to change when you turn the air con on though. Appreciate the replys guys Chris

Any ideas anyone? Surely someone could have an idea Chris

I have put this in the freedom "ask a tech" area also but thought it best to put this hear too invade it is missed. Ok so I have a real issue somewhere with my Aircon and need some advice. Earlier in the year I discovered that my aircon rad had a hole in it so decided to go for it and get it replaced. That was changed for a new one but the aircon pump wouldn't turn. The garage said that they think it's the pump so I said forget about it and I'll source one. The long and the short is after specifying the exact model number from 20 online breakers and 10 apparently correct pumps, we couldn't get the right one so I got a new one from VW. Problem fixed...no. It still won't turn over. The garage even got someone super special on that said it was a level sensor...that got changed and still, not working. It's enables on Vagcom and should be working but it just isn't! Any ideas guys and please, keep it on topic :(. I've spent far too much money and just want it sorting! Thanks in advance Chris

I would get it into a garage and have them check the suspension components. I'm pretty sure something's bent. You said you've changed the tyres many times - how do the tyres wear - even? Chris

Straight line....oh yes! A to B cross country...maybe not. I don't like Saxos, never did but due to weight and general handling, they are fairly quick on B roads.

Hey. Yeah you don't need the wheels off to remove this. Does make things easier though. Don't know why you'd take that off though. Chris

Get the arse of the car in the air first. Remove the bar at the "S" droplinks first - both sides. Then undo the clamps holding the bar into the beam and remove from car. Once that's done, unbolt the big bolt holding the "S" droplink into the bottom of the suspension damper. Make sure this is mega tight when you tighten back up afterwards. This is a very basic "how to" but it is very easy once you get under the car Chris

Dude...it took you 30 minutes?!?!? You must have the smallest little baby hands ever! :p In all seriousness, I have a similar looking kit to you. Took me about 2 hours all in. Hardest bit for me was getting the bulbs to seat correctly as quite a tight squeeze behind the light units on each side. Make sure to get the lights aligned afterwards! They will be all over the shop once done. Good luck Chris

Thing to bear in mind, a TV that has a half decent 3D picture is pretty much guaranteed to have a fantastic 2D picture. I have a Samsung 51" 3D plasma and I love it. Have lots of blu rays and a few are 3D. Certain games on my Xbox are played in 3D as I like the depth gained. Nothing beats Avatar in 3D either!!! Active glasses tend to be choice for plasma due to the almost instantaneous refresh rate they have. Generally you won't find a passive 3D non LED set as it just doesn't work as well. Tbh, most people don't use it as unless you buy specific footage, most TV is 2D. I do use mine and love it. Best thing to do is go to John Lewis as they are extremely helpful. Just don't ever feel pushed into buying as Currys/PC World/Comet (when they were around) are monthly sponsored by companies to make their TVs look better in order to shift more. It's the reason when you go to a big TV place, some look simply epic and some...well, don't! Hope this helps...I realise I have gone on a bit lol Chris

Was laughing my balls off when he accelerates out of a corner....and into a field lol. What a plank Chris

Upward light output...no more than normal tbh. Cheis

I find them quite good really. They don't put out as much as a H7 bulb due to the black filament cover on the bulb. Even with this it is far far brighter and illuminates more of the road. With them aligned its not a bad cut off but don't get me wrong, not a patch on projectors. Chris

Ah ok Booke. Has been a long couple if days so was a little short. Sorry about that. Another thing I've noticed recently was driving with fogs on with one headlight and foglight out. I just don't get it lol Chris

To be fair though, I get blinded more by normal lights these days. Don't think people care enough about other road users to align lights. Chris

Booke - he's not dodgy so don't really appreciate your comment. He has told me that when MoT time comes round they had better be back to standard or it will fail. He aligned my headlights as asked even though he informed me that they were illegal. It falls to me, the owner of the car, not the MoT tester. I like the enhanced white and vision they afford me in bad weather conditions. Chris

Hi. I bought my HIDs from HIDs-direct and bought the H7R kit. Cant remember which one but is a canbus kit mid price. My friend who is an MOT tester aligned them to be slightly lower than normal - equivalent of slightly higher -1 beam adjustment. Still a better output though than standard bulbs and have never once been flashed in any condition. I also have many close friends that are local traffic police and none have commented on the directional output. As said above, unless you have a dodgy MOT tester they will not pass an MOT! Another thing to think about is if your MOT tester would be happy to overlook the lights, what else would they overlook??? Maybe worth thinking about as no one wants an unsafe car. Chris

When was it last serviced? Do you know anyone with VAG com? if not, go to a garage and get them to check. Cost me £10 for my local garage to check mine when I thought my Vrs had an issue. Chris

Good point! :0)

Ken - think your reply was a little harsh chap. I'm not pig to lie and say I have never driven too close to the car in front but the only time I've ever had a fog light smash (albeit on a Fiat Punto GT) was when traveling in winter and the car in front threw a few 50p sized stones backwards at me. One dented the bonnet then hit the windscreen passenger side and the other obliterated the drivers side fog light. That was at 60mph on the A1 near Biggleswade. It was in minus numbers and I was 4+ seconds behind the car in front. To say you've never had it happen to you is just luck! I hope it doesn't happen either as its a total pain in the ass! :0D Anyhoo, lamin-x will help to an extent but a stone/pebble flying at a closing speed of 100mph (50mph backwards and you travelling 50 forwards) will still break it if you are unfortunate enough. Chris

Cheers viewer. Didn't know that. They apparently colour shift 500ish K in the first 10-20 hours of use. Is this what could be happening? Ok, well I will try the H7R vs current setup then. Hopefully it will be as close to, if not exactly the same beam wise. Might have to try and get a pic at the same time late at night - say 11pm, so that after a months use, it will be as dark as it is now. Cheers for the heads up though. Chris

Cheers Armstrong. That was just what I was looking for. I bought a set from HIDs direct this morning (H7R) and I plan to do a bulb comparison in the same spot against normal H7, my H7R and (when I can short term borrow some) H7 hid bulbs. Should be interesting...for me at least :0) Thanks again. Chris

Buuuuuump

Easiest way to be certain about your cars condition is to pay £40 an get it rolling roaded. You will quickly be able to see the power/torque of the car - circa 140bhp seems to be normal for standard cars, along with any fuelling/boost leaks/clutch slip etc. I know it's an added cost but will be the best way to be sure. Chris