Medivac

i had the exact same problem, no battery light and intermittent power steering on start up. it was the alternator load wire. It was broken at the front drivers side, had to jack it up to get access. Start the car or jump start it if it wont start and run a volt meter across the terminals, when my wire was broke it was reading 11.8v while idling, i the rejoined the wire and got 14.5 instantly.

My fabia would have terrible lift-off over-steer when i had rainsports on the front and budgets on the back. Never spun it, but came close a few times.

Pretty sure the MOT says "Exhaust system - complete, secure, without serious leaks and silences effectively" which annoyingly is an opinion since no MOT centre to my knowledge has a Db meter. Like Joe says, im pretty sure the garage that MOTed it in the first place would sign it off since they cant argue that they passed it like that anyway.

My guess would be to fit a silencer, what does it say on the form? Have you gotta take it to a garage to get them to sign it?

It just runs a safe map when its unplugged. Anyway, mine wasn't completely dead when i brought the car, but it drove very similar without the maf. Power backs off at high RPM if its dying. Brought a new one and it pulled like a train.

As Trundle says, the best way to see if your maf isnt working is simply unplugging it. If the car drives the same then the maf isnt doing anything and is dead.

Nope, but i guess its a good place to start looking. Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_b3hCQPq8QI&feature=youtu.be Another video of me pulling out of a juction, my car is quite loud because of a cone filter. But you can hear the vibrating and also big clunks when the accelerator is pressed.

Maybe DMF fail? Seems to be harder to pull off, have to rev more to get it moving and i get a horrible vibration while its engaging and under load. This is with the handbrake on and engaging the clutch a little while in gear. It really is that loud, the vibration is quite bad and it sounds rough when under load. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E83_kxzaaI&feature=youtu.be

Yet i had a TDI one that fell to pieces, fuel pump failed, power steering pump popped, injectors needed replacing. Hardly had an issuse with my fabia TDI. If you miss it that much, you can buy another for around 500 quid.

Ah i stand corrected.

I would be worried that these are for the euro spec car. Hence the cut-out for the air intake being on the wrong side. You wouldn't want to block that.

The way it was done on my car was a speed/injection quantity limit, which in turn limits the rpm. Until a set speed is reached like 15mph then it takes its limits from another map. Meaning its also limited in neutral, unless there's another way of doing it. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Yeah I had it. Pretty pointless. Also I think it could be a mot fail since they can't do a fast idle smoke test. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Nevermind, sorted it! My crimp on the inside of the door wasnt quite connecting. Its a right bugger to get to. Thanks for the guide!

Oh by the way, I'm using the black ground cable coming off the device for the yellow/yellow and black. Is this correct? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Hello, I know this is an old guide but I could do with some help, I've followed it to the letter and triple checked my connection a with a volt Metre, but I don't get any voltage from the ground to the yellow/yellow and black cables. How does it get voltage from ground? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Like said above, it will be more powerful with the new maf, it will run fine without one also. It reverts to a safe map when the maf isnt found.

Only need to do block two on everything. I like to keep block five as default incase i want to revert back a few values. Then its just a copy and paste job.

I guess so if its buggered by sticking open. Also I'm pretty sure the se is mapped out the same. Or you could delete it and map it out. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

As far as i know both work, i used to map way because if the engine isn't expecting the EGR to be open via the map it wont throw up a CEL. I may be wrong though.

I did it my self with VAG EDC15P+ Suite and a 10 quid cable. Left is default, right is mapped out.

Same, £24 quid, Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111123851938?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649