f2evotomo

It's gonna be a sticking caliper most likely, disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper and then pop some mole grips on the lever the handbrake cable would normally pull on when engaged, does this move freely ? Mine was binding so using the mole grips I'd applied a up and down motion which helped free the lever up and then I used gt85 spray to assist lubricating where the lever is joined to the caliper, this seems have worked well on my car although I have heard stories of calipers being siezed completely and the only option being a replacement or full strip down and rebuild

I've seen 52mpg on mine but been hitting around 48mpg lately on most motorway runs, something must be wrong somewhere I reckon as like you say, not a true reading

Have you ever heard of a toffee wheel ? These will assist you in sticker removal, put them straight into a cordless drill and away you go, will still take a while and you'll need a few I would imagine for a large van but the sticker and glue will be removed all together

Mine stopped working, found that the mech had got gritty and effectively jammed, sprayed gt85 all over, wiggled a few bits and hey presto been working ever since, that was about 6 months ago as well

iron x is what you need to use on your wheels, its the only thing that will truely remove the metal filings from the wheel as these filings will be hot from basically metal to metal surfaces and they will have burnt into the laquer :-( you need to get the problem of the brakes sorted first as the longer you leave it the worse it will get.

handbrake applies a pressure to the brake pads via a screw action in the caliper so only the one set of pads that do handbrake and normal braking combined

Thanks mate, def the look I wanna seek to achieve, was there a particular brand to go for ?

lovely looking car, shame you got rid of it, I noticed the stance is pretty perfect, did you have spacers fitted ??? if so could you advise what ones and sizes etc.....

i had this exact same kit on my car and it seemed to cause nothing but hassle, i had power issues, running issues and boost issues, i put everything back to standard in the end which im gutted about, however it didn't seem to put every thing back to normal by doing this, the car still had issues running and boosting correctly, now it seems to have settled down after a couple of months to being normal again but it was frustrating to go through all these problems, i changed the n75 during the fitting as this seemed to be causing a continuous overboost issue when the FMIC was first fitted so i'm running this new n75 now. why would i have had so many issues do you think ? i contemplated changing actuator, fuel pump, dv, MAF, Map sensor but no codes apart from the overboost have come up on vagcom.

although just seen this is a post from 2010 oopps

yep been into skoda today and the cost is £107 inc vat, i just ordered a used part from ebay for £14 delivered, its a gamble but at £14 its gotta be worth a punt, the seller was showing one more of these left and the ebay item number was 390672176899 if thats any use.

i'm still getting issues with mine, i'll have another check on vac hoses but what a knightmare this part throttle issue is.

I've got a toyo sport FMIC, my car didn't seem to like it. It's complete with all pipe work, if your interested pm me and we can talk £££

N75 most likely, however I changed mine and it made a massive difference but now a couple of weeks down the line I'm getting problems again with boosting

sticky caliper/ caliper sliders or wheel bearing, can only really be one or the other i would think,

Drove home from work and end result was a cracked windscreen

Cheers for the replies all, the car is coming up to a service however over the last few weeks I had the plugs out and re-gapped, plus oil is checked regularly as I cover a good 70miles daily so maintenance is always important to me, I will be servicing fully now the service check has come around and hopefully this all helps, the coil packs are all new as these were replaced under recal about 5 months ago

I'm feeling down at the mo, my 05 VRS Octy Is not playing ball right now. There is just no real power, it starts ok but driving it feels like I may as well be driving a standard 1.8-2.0ltr car not a 180bhp turbo powered car. When driving I here the turbo spooling but the power doesn't seem to apply to make you smile or scared lol. My car is standard under the bonnet for reference, standard air box and standard map etc.. I'm not sure where to look, all the obvious bits seem ok, I.e split hoses, N75, temp sensor, dump valve but then I dunno how to really test these elements correctly. I have VCS Lite bit no codes are coming up, my coils have been changed so they would be ruled out so I'm after people's advice on where to look now, fuel is also going pretty quickly these days and I can some days get 38-40 mpg average but others see 30mpg, I suspected rear brakes as well but on a hill if you release the handbrake the car rolls away all fine. Someone please help coz I do love my car but right now we are over the honeymoon period :-(

Looking very nice indeed

I take it no one could answer my question on the MAF. Anyway a little update, a couple of days ago I removed my cold air kit and put the standard airbox back on with a k&n panel filter which I bought when I first got the car, I have seen a small increase back on my average MPG which now reaches back to 40 again but more than anything is the improvement in pure driveability, there is more torque and more mid range throttle response so gonna continue with it like this for now, maybe the metel cold air kit is just to cold a throwing things out for fuelling in this icy weather

A big thumbs up, looks spot on, actually really like the red calipers, they work very well with the deep gloss black bodywork.

It's your starter motor, common vag issue, mine is exactly the same, the noise goes when the temperature increases, I.e no noise during the summer months. I believe the cause is something to do with the seals but if you do a search there are plenty of threads with the answer.

The temp gauge moves all fine and reaches temp ok and within a reasonable time I haven't tried the maf as yet, if I disconnect this will it through up the CEL ?

Cheers for your input bowders, I've looked over most of the hoses and they seem all fine. Areas for further checking as you mentioned would now be seal on pancake pipe at the rear of the engine and poss the DV, maybe it's just the cold, I just seem to be burning up the fuel massively lately like £35 every few days yet sometimes that's lasted me the best part of a week :-(

Hi all, I took my car apart at the weekend as something somewhere just doesn't seem 100% up to a couple of months ago I was regularly seeing around 40-45 average MPG but now I'm seeing 30-35 if lucky, I can't help but think the power seems a little down as well. I cannot seem to suss the answer completely but I thought I'll carry out a few jobs. 1st job was I pulled the plugs and re-gapped as there seemed to be a lot of distance in the gap against the suggested 0.8 2nd job was clean the intercooler as it was looking a little gunked up 3rd clean throttle body 4th check all main joints on pipes including CAI are all tight 5th check all pipes under manifold etc... for leaks ( all seemed ok visually) After I carried out these jobs it seems more responsive in some areas when driving but still down on power overall, plus no improvements on MPG after a run to and from work today which is 35 miles E/W, most of which is motorway driving at a steady rate. Anyway getting back to the title, while carrying out the above jobs I did notice some wear to the intercooler surface so would this contribute enough to cause a boost leak do you think or can anyone suggest whats going on with the drop in performance and MPG I know the rear brakes can stick on at times and mine has done this but would I be safe to conclude it shouldn't be a factor if the car rolls ok with the handbrake off ?? here are some pics of the work and what I found on the intercooler, I'm interested in your responses. you can see the markings on the bottom left uprights of the intercooler which have been made by the scoop which channels the airflow to the intercooler Gary