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Almal

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Everything posted by Almal

  1. Sounds to me like it is the sleeve/bump stop. Replacing the sleeve and bump stop should fix it but obviously get it diagnosed properly by a workshop. They are a bit tricky to replace, not like a conventional rear bump stop
  2. The only thing confusing me is you say an EGR temp sensor. There’s temp sensors on the Exhaust but not for the EGR valve. That code is to do with EGR though I believe. As langers2k said above I would go down that route if it’s had the Update carried out
  3. On the exhaust there are various sensors but for the actual EGR valve there is only one solenoid valve/sensor that operates EGR and one solenoid valve/sensor that operates a switch over valve for the cooling side of the EGR. I should be able to tell you more once you put the error code up. Also have you had the emissions update carried out on your vehicle?
  4. Gates kit should be ok. To my knowledge there are no locking tools for the 2.0 BWA Cambelt replacement so you’d have to do it via the timing marks. I’d certainly replace the water pump and the only thing which can be a pain is the timing belt cover! If you’ve done the HDI Peugeot one you should be ok!
  5. I get what you are saying completely. Technician will not be able to confirm the fault other than if it happens at time of workshop visit or through experience/brand knowledge. The slider is activated by a solenoid valve and my guess is because the solenoid valve still is activating/working(it’s the seals inside the pump that deform causing the problem) the ECU won’t recognise an electrical malfunction and won’t bring the EML on. Thats the only way it makes sense to me! There may be a particular measured value block that can read last engine time engine temp went over 90c but I wouldn’t know without looking.
  6. Sorry I didn’t know I’d upset someone by posting some actual words on here that were quoted by Skoda just to furthermore clarify the issue.
  7. This issue does not log a fault code but following what some others have said, the coolant pump has an electronically controlled sliding mechanism. This is closed to aid warming up then opens to allow coolant flow fully through the rest of the circuit. Sealing rings internally fail causing the mechanism to stick intermittently causing the temp garage to go mad. A new coolant pump should fix it. Make sure distilled water is used when refilling cooling system
  8. Going from EFB to AGM shouldn’t be a problem. EFB is basically an entry level AGM battery. Assuming you have stop start and battery management system the battery needs to be coded to the vehicle. AGM is used for higher spec cars, so for instance if you were going from AGM to EFB it would be pointless. However there could be an underlying issue that you are having
  9. “Retailers are to stop delivery of all new and used vehicles containing wireless charging phone boxes to customers with immediate effect. The phone box option normally includes a component which amplifies mobile phone signals. Regrettably, due to technical and regulatory constraints, we are unable to provide this function at this moment in time”.
  10. Passenger side heated seat, if your vehicle has heated seats.
  11. You say the vehicle had/has a miss fire which was the original problem? If the timing was out for whatever reason and possible valve to piston contact occurred then any slight damage could cause a miss fire more so just under load. Does the engine timing chain sound slightly noisy for any reason? Sorry all the questions, what was the original repair carried out?
  12. They suffer carbon build up on the inlet valves and also the flaps inside the inlet manifold can fail. 2 birds with one stone maybe?
  13. What usually happens is when the fuel filter is replaced you have to remove the top lid to the housing which can be stuck down quite firmly and upon removal you can distort the lid. So when it's tightened down it doesn't seal correctly therefore causing the leak. 9 times out of 10 it is this as opposed to the rubber seal failing. Did they replace the filter at your last service? If so that's most likely what has happened, I've seen it quite a few times. Hope this has helped.
  14. I would check the fuse as it sounds like it might have blown
  15. Could be anything if you can access diagnostics you can see the last 4 or 5 alarm sources. My guess maybe a faulty door lock or interior monitoring sensors but yeah really hard to say without diagnostic check
  16. The fact it's going into limp home mode and you have warning lights illuminated means it probably won't be leaking coolant, it will most likely be electrical fault within the egr so as above it'll either need replacing or opt for the bypass. You'll be spending money either way unfortunately as there's a bit of time involved replacing/ removing egr cooler. Hope this gives you a bit more info. P.s. I personally wouldn't have a go at changing it without use of a ramp
  17. If you have access to any diagnostics - as sometimes carrying out basic settings on the flap motors can cure problems. Maybe there is a fault with the temperature flap motor
  18. Yes there should be one top and bottom
  19. No sorry!it is a stupid design it's quite a big unit it has a cooling unit as part of it so the whole thing is just known as an egr cooler. It is on the back of the engine and you cannot remove it with the dpf in the way. if it was a 4x4 you would have to take the propshaft out, drop the subframe- very involved.
  20. camber causes that and its the bridgestone and dunlop tyres that wear worse than other brands
  21. i think the kenwood unit through skoda is good, bluetooth is good,you have dab,ipod connection etc. i find it easy to use but it is pricey
  22. yeah definately not a roadside job. you dont have to drop the gearbox, just the driveshaft out and the dpf part of the exhaust. still a fiddly job, even worse if the car is a 4x4
  23. Had a feeling,suppose it could be worse. Yeah quite an involved job as its at the back of the engine with the DPF in the way but at least the car will run normal after
  24. What's the temperature gauge work like? Is it slow to heat up? Coolant temperature sensor could be a possibility and doesn't always log a fault. If it is faulty that can mess about with the fueling a little. Just a thought
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