farside

This seems to a fairly common problem on Octavias and Golfs - been searching the forums for tips on how to open my deadlocked rear door. Tried the door banging tip - no joy there. So how do you remove the door card -it seems that you can get to the Torx screws by removing the weatherstrip, then using a Torx key (right angled like an Allen key), or a Torx bit and pliers. Alternatively as suggested, pull door card at the right places and the plastic clips will come out - if they break, get new ones. Anyway, my rear door suddenly decided to unlock after many weeks of refusal, so i quickly removed the door card while I had a chance. Nothing wrong with cable or external handle realease. Checked out the door wiring and control module - all dry and ok. Removed and dismantled door lock, no fault found, resoldered the PCB joints anyway, and regreased the mechanism. Still works ok. Spent some time trying to figure out the lock mehanism and servo motor while I had it dismantled, just in case it failed again. Could not get it to release the deadlock via manual operation of the various levers for the external handle, internal handle or door pin. I read someone's suggestion that his method was to chisel the plastic bit (containing the servo) off the mechnical part of the lock to get access to the various levers and springs, so he could force the deadlock to release. Seems drastic but maybe the only way? If anyone has found another way I would be interested to hear.

Very good experience getting corrosion sorted under warranty on my 2003 Octavia with 120k on clock. Neil was really pleasant and helpful - took pictures and measured paint thickness which he sent off to Skoda UK. Gave me a courtesy car for a week while the paintwork was fixed, and phoned me twice to update on progress. Received car back after being cleaned inside and out, and the paint repair was very good indeed (I think they use Agnew Autocentre). Well done Neil McVeigh (Asst Service Manager) for making it a painless process.

My recent skoda dealer experience of tailgate (and rear door) corrosion was actually very good. I found 2 rust bubbles on the tailgate of my 03 Octavia hatchback (either side of plastic trim above number plate), and 1 on the same spot on each rear door window surround. See pics attached. Went to Mervyn Stewart Skoda in Belfast who took pics and measured paint thickness to send to Skoda UK. The following week they gave me a courtesy car for 5 days while they sorted it. The tailgate was resprayed (new badges fitted), and the rear doors respayed too. Paint match is superb - even impressed my coachbuilder mate when he saw it. I am really fussy about overspray on trim etc, and there simply is none to be found. I reckon they stripped the tailgate and doors as there isn't even a masked off edge under the rubbers. I know that the lacquer coat was applied from rear pillar to front 'A' pillar because the stone chips I touched up on the 'A' pillar a while back are now under lacquer! Oh and the car was returned after being cleaned inside and out. Really happy with a quality job.

Yes that is the post with the door lock controller details.

Hi I had similar problems with the controller wiring loom in the drivers door - the connector pins were so corroded I could not repair them. The fix was simple enough - a new loom for about £50. It took about 2 hours to fit (dismantle everything, disconnect old loom from footwell, and reassemble with new loom). I did this 2 years ago, used lots of WD40 and self-amalgamating tape, so far no more problems. I did a post on this subject around June 06 (search my user name), it had links to pictures which you might find useful. cheers k

If you are lucky just the connector on the wiring loom is corroded, and the loom can be replaced quite easily (

mike the symptoms you describe are very similar to what i experienced on my 03 Octy Elegance last summer, and as AcW mentions the problem was a corroded connector on the Control Unit. The unit itself was not faulty, but the dealer had computer diagnosed faulty door locks and / or control unit. So it might be worthwhile having a look. The fix was simple - fit new wiring loom in drivers door (

Re your towbar question - fitting the towbar is straightforward, did mine in a couple of hours, most of which was splicing in the electrics (soldered not scotchloked). The Skoda dealer could supply a towbar wiring loom, i think it was

Saw a picture of an optional sunglasses holder in the owners manual, found that it is part number 1U0 857 465 B 47H - cost

Yeah out of gas is a good guess! My friendly building maintenance engineer at work put his aircon gauges on it and no pressure there, so he injected a little refrigerant and now it works. Could not find any trace of a leak with his electronic sniffer. I reckon there may be a leak so i will wait to see it this cures it or not. I have been using the aircon about once a week through the winter to keep the seals good. If it leaks again then it's time for a visit to my local aircon specialist to find the leak.

Hi yes you can unplug the connector from the convenience controller without removing the unit. On my 03 Octavia the controller is just below the electric window motor, in the middle of the door towards the bottom edge (it a black plastic rectangular box). Access to it is good. See this thread for some pics (thanks to Gaff for great pics) http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/window-creaking-coming-back-down-when-using-one-touch/14212/?highlight=window See this guide in the VWVortex site for close ups of connectors etc (shows Golf / Jetta MkIV door, but the parts are the same as the Octy) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1015107 Refer to section 13 and 14 for pics of the convenience controller and connector removal. If you need to unplug the doorlock connector, refer to section 33, which shows the 8 pin connector. You have to squeeze the tab hard and pull to release the connector. Good luck!

Hi I had similar problems with central locking, interior lights, electric windows and motors etc. Traced the problem to a corroded connector on the drivers door convenience controller. The connector (29pin I think) is released by levering a 'c' shaped slider which is wrapped around 3 sides of the connector - this pulls the connector out of the socket. It needs a reasonable degree of force to overcome the initial resistance (there is a tight fitting rubber gasket on the connector). My connector had water in it, tried cleaning the corroded sockets with electrical spray cleaner but 2 sockets had broken internally in the connector. The connector cannot be dismantled. Had to replace the wiring loom in the door (about

2003 Octy Elegance TDi 130, bought 7 months ago with 64k, now at 73k. Problems so far - replaced wiring loom in drivers door (corroded connectors) - air con stopped working, not fixed yet - cruise control stopped working, not fixed - minor coolant leak, tried radweld sealant, so far so good - air bag needed reset with vag.com today, hope that cures it! - sqeaking from front suspension on speed ramps But good points are that it drives really well, and gives me 55+ mpg, sometimes over 60mpg

The aircon on my 03 Octy TDi has stopped working, now when AUTO is selected on the Climatronic there is no cold air, just air at ambient temp. The clutch does not engage on the compressor, it remains static at all times. I can turn it by hand when engine is stopped, it appears to turn freely and smoothly. Presumably when the clutch engages you can see it spinning at pulley speed? I checked the 2 wires on the compressor (green and brown). Using a multimeter i think brown is earth, and there is continuity so earth is ok, and green is 12V. So it appears the compressor is getting 12v ok. The strange thing is that 12v is always present - ignition off or on, climatronic set to econ or auto. I bought a Haynes manual hoping for a circuit diagram for aircon, but it is not included (?!"?) The aircon fuse F16 is ok. So I am a bit stumped without a diagram. So, i borrowed a vag.com connector and shareware, and got a fault code on the HVAC module - 00792 A/C pressure switch F129. There may be other codes but this shareware version does not divulge them. I think the pressure switch is on the bulkhead, slightly to right of centre on my car, attached to aircon pipe? Is there any way of testing this switch? Any suggestions ? Thanks in advance.

Martin on my octavia the retaining screw hidden by a plastic cap is a Torx (not sure what size). When you loosen this torx screw it slides a retaining plate away from the barrel (drivers door) or blanking piece (other doors). The barrel then needs a little persuasion to come out as it is a tight fit. Note that the torx screw is captive and is not completely removed, just loosened. Hope this helps. kieran