mk1pat

10-12k, So it's not a common issue the engine failures in the petrol VRS?

£13k**

Hi all, I ahve had an octavia VRS in the past a mk1, stupily sold it, Hands down the best car i have owned. Now i am looking for a new car that I wont get bored of budget £13 ish. I wan something that i wont get bored of, is quick enough so that i dont get bored, i really want DSG as sometimes I may need to borrow my wifes car and hers is auto. Do i get the TDI OR FSI, really put off by the engine failure sticky at the top , any advice would be great! Thank, Paddy

yep its a pain wish i had done that last time, as mine i think is going as its cherps when cold and goes quiet again when warm? paddy

Hi tom, i had to do this on my first caddy pickup mk2 same as feli. i removed the rad and was changing the alternator anyways. so yes it makes job a lot easier thanks paddy

hmmm may be steep but i bought mine from ebay a few years ago and still looks brand new!! well worth the cast i fear asnything cheaper will be cheap and fall to pieces paddy

As said already besy thing to do is get as primer bulb which you can leave inline before the fuel filter.... keep squeezing until it goes hard then try and start, if its a reaccuring problem then i would look at the leak off pipes as these can split and let air in meaning not enough of a vacuum in created to suck through the fuel, worth a look. I think i have a spare primer bulb if you like? Paddy

Cool okay I will get it checked. Thanks for the advice, I would hope he is a specialist as he worked as a vw engineer for 15 years before opening his own a garage. Thanks rotodiesel Paddy

Hi, thanks for the replies, the cambelt was changed by a VAG specialit whom i trust i have used him for years. I am just thinking its very slightly out and cam be timed back in anyone local willing to help? I had a oil change, however, didnt get teh fuel filterr done, or the air filter and i am thinking it could be the fuel filter too? Was going to do myself? could the fuel filter cause these issues too. when its cold and only cold, pulling away in 1st only it will judder at low RPM ? the mpgs have got worse over the last couple of months but seem a little worse again after the cambelt? paddy

How do I do this? Thanks for the reply. Paddy

Hi All, I have a 2003 1.9t tdi AVF engine 6 speed manual. Just had the timing belt replaced, all genuine parts etc etc. now the MPG is down other symptoms are: takes another crank to start diesel rattle from pump for first couple of seconds when started dirty diesel smell from exhaust slow throttle response and worse MPG. Anything else i should be looking for? help please... Someone mentioned checking the timing via vagcom, i don't have it or the locking tools? Anyone near me in Wiltshire that knows what their doing that wouldn't mind helping? paddy

Okay, So i have checked and found the broken wire and replaced it, it wasn't corroded at the joint, checked continuity before and after..... no continuity, hmmm so the 25 cm length of wire from the ccm to the joint... could see an obvious break... looked again it had snapped inside the wire itself! now replace and completely replaced... So since this i have replaced the pollen filter seal with genuine VW seal stuff like a putty on a roll stuff... FOR FREE FROM VW and removed plenum plugs.. so should all be sorted, put the car pack together, boot lock works as does fob... still no drivers door switch though? cheers though owl your a legend!

okay will look at it tomorrow and report back! thanks again!

Right Owl, To start with you're an absolute legend!!!! After following your advice, I think i have cracked the majority of the problem! I was going to check continuity between 23/2 and pin 2 in the black connector in the left hand side of the boot like you said, however, i thought no, ill just try using a piece of wire from pin 23/2 ccm to pin 2 in black connector in the left hand side in the boo instead and if it works that means that that wire is broken somewhere! and hey presto it works!!! it locks and unlocks from the fob and opens with the handle. YAY! When i use the boot release on the fob it unlocks the boot and when you shut it again it locks after a couple of secs! BUT, the boot release switch still isnt working?! any ideas? cheers again OWL, Paddy

Okay, I wont be able to fixc it until friday, would this wire brown with green strip (pin 2 T23) being broken cause the solenoid not to work from the fob then ? Cheers Paddy

Thanks you're a star! So could i check continuity with a multi meter? if so where does the brown with green strip join the rear T6 block? 2 other things: 1. What is the part number for the boot latch? 2. If i got another CCM loom from a car that i got the mint working CCM from could i swap the looms over to eliminate any issues. My thought was to replace the loom from the T23 plug backwards thus fixing any issues with corrsion? Would this work? cheers again

sorry 0wl... looked at the logo not your name

Hi Briskodian, Thanks for the reply again, I have a 2003 passat estate sport 1.9 pd tdi AVF. The CCM I have is the IC0 959 799 B. I checked with a multi meter pin two on the 23 pin connector i got 11.5v connecting the large brown in the same connector and the pin in question when i press the switch it went down!? Oddlly enough while playing with it i got the actuator to fire when pulling the switch then it stopped again.... FINALLY PROGRESS!?, however, do you have any idea what it could be? cheers again paddy

i will check and get back to you, will do this after work. thanks for the reply

Thank you for the reply, Yes i have tried all the connections, i am at a loss now! :(

Yeah min dosesnt work at all no power to the blue solenoid wire. The relay clicks when i press the boot realese and the lights flash, however, this doesnt happen when pressing the boot release switch in the door. Hvae checked the wires all seem sfine as the rest of the boot works? Could it be the boot lock microswitch the one that sits next to the key barrel? cheers

I have come to a complete loss with the rear boot lock motor? Just a quick recap, i can unlock my car with the key fob, that works fine, however, the boot wont unlock electronically, neither from the key fob or the switch on the drivers door. I can unlock with the key in the boot though. In addition when i do this it wont lock or unlock the rest of the car, which I assume it should?! Also if the car is locked and i unlock with the key in the boot lock the alarm goes off until i press the fob to unlock the rest of the car. There is no power to the blue wire, 0v, however when i click the boot lock on the fob the relay goes click as normal, however, there is no power from pin 18 when the middle fob button is clicked or the switch on the drivers door? I have done all the obvious: checked the key is in the horizontal position, doesn't make a difference. Checked continuity to all the wires leading to the boot, all fine checked the solenoid, all fine working and have a working spare neither work in tailgate though but when tested with 12v they work perfectly. checked the different micro switches in tailgate including latch, handle and key barrel, all fine Checked tailgate wiring loom, all fine Even purchased a mint working CCM same p/n still no difference?! HELP PLEASE WHAT AM I MISSING HERE!?!

possibly but i found it easier to remove BOTH cups, i feel its a complete false economy trying to save the old oil why not change it?

i would like to see you get the box out without removing the cups.. It took us ages with one removed and then gave up and removed the other

I have got a minter, all original, 123,000 miles very clean, black carpet, full service history, oil changes at coorect times, last full service (sept) had oil pick up changed, just completed a g60 SMF conversion genuine parts used. let me know... looking for a cheaper commuter! I really dont want to sell i have put so much into this car.