mickyg

hi, It could be one of the three rubbers which are used to fasten the engine cover (one with the Skoda badge on it - not the cam box cover) on top of the engine, not too sure `cos it`s a bit difficult to scale it against anything ! Regards

Hi, I am considering buying a spare key from e bay - this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180482144046&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT i would then have to get a front half of the fob and get a key cut. This is all possible but i cannot code the key to my vehicles immobiliser without VAG COM and an operator to do it ! Are there any members around west yorks area who could do this for me, or am i better off at the main dealers ? Has anybody else done this ? Thanks.

Hi, Does anyone know the correct grade and type of oil for the manual gearbox on a 1.9tdi 5 speed manual (AWX engine) i was going to change it at 60k miles. Is it necessary to change the oil or is it in for the life of the gearbox ? I intend to keep the car until it`s dead ! Is it an easy job to do ? Thanks.

oops, found the pm button, you have pm !

hi, thanks for the offer the sizes are 520mm and 540mm, can`t see your e mail in profile ! and not sure what pm is !! regards, mickyg

Hi, VW and skoda main dealers used to stock spare aero wiper rubbers only ( at a fraction of the cost of whole new wiper) i was told when i enquired ( part is 1K0 955 429 A ) vw had stopped doing them but they seem to be available in the USA. Is there an alternative as £15-20 for 2 wiper blades seems excessive to me ??

Hi, yes the feet actually rest on the roof on rubber pads partly resting in the groove which runs along the length of the roof, the feet are retained by arms which hook under all four doors, you can see a space where they are supposed to go if you open each door and look for the interuption in the line along the top of the door where it meets the roof. The only possible cause of wear/damage i can see would be if you were to leave them on for a very long time and grit could become stuck under the rubber pads causing abrasions to the paint on the roof, but i`m talking months for thet to happen !

Hi, Yes we have fitted the Thule feet packs and roof bars (square steel not alloy aero ones) you can get them online and also see which ones you require. We went to France camping and wanted as large a roofbox for as little money as possible and went for a Mont Blanc 540 litre one (it`s fairly wide) we realised you can pay a small fortune for roofboxes, but the Mont Blanc has served us well despite i`m sure being overloaded every time !! The roof bars take approx 5 mins to put on or take off, the box takes about 10 mins. Hope this is of assistance to you ? Regards, Mickyg

Hi again, After complaining at some length to VW dealer they agreed to "buy back" the remaining 3 lengths of sealant for £20 which was a result for me ! However that does mean that the other pieces of sealant are not available to buy, the warning still remains `tho regarding initial purchase price - perhaps even more so given the second posters experience ?? I suppose one way to look at it is £30 is a small price to pay for a preventative measure which could potentially cost a lot more. It still wrankles me `tho paying for something you `aint going to use, or paying for 4 sealant strips as per the second poster and only getting one. No wonder main dealers aren`t very popular with this practice going on.

Hi, I`ve just collected the part number AKD 497 010 04R 10 which is the sealing cord for the pollen filter housing, from my local VW main dealer. I had to order it at a cost of £29.08 as it wasn`t in stock. When it arrived, the box was rather large for what i thought was a single strip of sealant, i was surprised to open the box and find not just a single strip but 4 x 2.5 metres strips of it, making 10 metres in total. When i asked the parts guy if they couldn`t just order one strip, he said thats what they come in and thats all they could supply ?? What f*****g use are the extra 3 strips as i`m presuming the pollen filter doesn`t require more than one 2.5 metre length !! Please beware other Briskodians if you are gonna do the repair yourselves.

Thanks roto and skodanut, will check the air filter as it`s due a looking at soon for a service, also i try to fill up to below the `hash` mark on the dipstick. I can also see the runaway engine problem developing if there was no way to vent the oil, it`s just that eventually it drops on the drive and requires cleaning off !! Anyway undertray off soon and put an empty margerine container under the pipe - the wonders of modern engine technology !!! I used to do a similar thing with crankcase breather pipes on race fourstoke motorbikes, but had`nt envisaged a similar scenario with a TDI engine.

I have noticed oil seeping from the large rubber pipe (part of the air intake after the intercooler i think) on the near side front where it meets the metal crossmember, there are clips which hold the pipe in place and the sealing arrangement is a green rubber/synthetic washer. I noticed this leaking the last time i did an oil change and got a new washer from main dealer, however 5k miles later there is a lot of oil on the undertray which has come from the pipe seal. Has anyone else had a similar leak, and is there a way of stopping it ? Thanks in advance.

Hope this helps, mine washed off lettering with diesel spills on fuel cap so i got another from dealer and put it on the plastic bit which holds the breakdown triangle in the boot lid !

Hi Lummox any chance you can tell me - i have done an outer cv boot on my superb, on the passenger side and managed to do it by undoing the 2 btm ball joints, then the hub nut and wiggle the cv joint past the bub assembly towards the rear of the car. What is different on the drivers side to make it so much more difficult, i`m only asking cos the drivers side boot is looking a bit "tired" and i`d rather do it now than wait for it to split just before i go on holiday or some other bad time !! thanks in advance, mickyg.

I have used mine (1.9tdi) to take on/off all 4 alloy wheels with no probs.... i did however note that the jack is made from aluminium and did wonder myself about its load bearing ability, especially as you sometimes have to remove the alloys with force if they have not been off for a while or were not lightly greased on the mating faces prior to putting on. It is the same jack as used on my friends VW Golf. Wonder if they will recall them all, bit dodgy if it buckles whilst changing wheel !!!

Enjoy the car it`s great, As for the pension bleating, why don`t people try to lift their pensions in line with the public sector INSTEAD of trying to drag everybody down to to their perceived "low" level ? I didn`t notice anyone moaning in the private sector in the past years when pension funds were doing very well either, and as for govt dept open after 4pm, how about hospitals, police, ambulance, fire, customs, army, navy, air force, coastguard, and whilst we are on the subject when was the last time anyone in the private sector had to go to work on Christmas day ? Most govt dept are being squeezed - less people to do the same work, is there any wonder errors are made. As for Stuart j, if I were to equally rant I might be led to think that things can`t be so bad for the private sector, what with a brand new car, a second car, and a private plate, i might also think that perhaps you and some of the other public sector knockers might like to put some of their hard earned money away in an investment scheme which may allow them to retire earlier, rather than spend it on new motors with private plates ?? Perhaps people should also not shoot from the hip when annoyed or better still take their rant elswhere. Rant response over.:(

03, 53 comfort 130tdi Driveway 9 yrs ncb me (41) missus (39) 10k miles fully comp, not protected £268 with e-sure (Halifax i think)

Mickyg, Superb 130 tdi Comfort, in silver, Bradford, West Yorks.

I think you`re missing my point Skoda RS. It does not matter how you drive the car, any standard engine will be okay (so long as it`s warmed up first) even if you thrashed the nuts off it all of the time, it is for this very reason that engine manufacturers use firms such as Ricardo to test the engines to failure point before releasing them to the public. Motorcycle magazines such as Performance bikes have taken two brand new sports bikes to test to see if "running in" an engine is worthwhile, they take identical bikes, dyno them both, one is run in gently, the other is taken to the track and thrashed for approx 500 miles, both bikes are dynoed again afterwards. The results are quite suprising, the track run bike consistently develops more power ! What i am saying here is that it does not matter how much you "rag" a standard engine - it`s built to cope with it, and is unlikely to suffer long term, however if you start shoving almost 50% more power and torque through than it was designed for, i think you may well be asking for trouble. I agree people who modify their cars may well look after them better, and at the end of the day it`s their choice to re-map it, but, even if you change the oil more often and use premium brands it is not going to prevent a new clutch/gearbox or major engine parts being required a LOT earlier, because you have exceeded the manufacturers safety margin by some considerable amount. Bengie has a point about Sachs clutches and shares, my fear is it might also be prudent to buy shares in a gearbox company as well !! :confused:

Why would i want to buy shares in black bin liners ??

I quite fancy having a remap done myself, however does anyone know the long term effects of this tuning with regard to the life of crankshafts, con rods, and especially clutches and gearboxes. My concerns are that any manufacturer will build in a degree of over engineering and with CAD manufacturing this is possible. It can be seen in formula one, where an engine is built for qualifying with a lot more power than a full race engine, because of this it would not last a whole race, and is changed. To a degree, this is true of modern day car engines, it is not uncommon to find car engines having done 250/300k miles. Years ago car engines in general, where worn out long before that mileage. So, even allowing for the modern built in "over engineering" and technological advances, we have a 1.9 litre turbo diesel engine developing approx 130 bhp in standard form, some tuning places can offer modest increases in power (approx 30%) and torque, for example www.tuningbox.com. What we have is a full remap offering just over 48% increase in power, whilst i think this is tremendous and very well done to the firms concerned, i cannot see how any manufacturer can build in this tolerance for tuning ? The VW Golf was offered with varying power outputs, my understanding that the 150bhp TDI`s engine (unit injector, code ARL) was made of different parts to the 68/90/100 bhp non unit injector, i would assume more robust ones to deal with the extra power. If the manufacturer feels it necessary to uprate the engine for an increase of 50 bhp how do we go on with 63bhp increases ? I owned a Vauxhall Omega 2.5TD with a box fitted and it really made a difference, so it`s not as if i`m against tuning TD`s, far from it, my concerns are that we may drastically reduce the life of our new motors by increasing the power and torque way beyond the engine designers brief. Any one else at all concerned, or do any remap firms care to offer an insight !! :confused:

I quite fancy having a remap done myself, however does anyone know the long term effects of this tuning with regard to the life of crankshafts, con rods, and especially clutches and gearboxes. My concerns are that any manufacturer will build in a degree of over engineering and with CAD manufacturing this is possible. It can be seen in formula one, where an engine is built for qualifying with a lot more power than a full race engine, because of this it would not last a whole race, and is changed. To a degree, this is true of modern day car engines, it is not uncommon to find car engines having done 250/300k miles. Years ago car engines in general, where worn out long before that mileage. So, even allowing for the modern built in "over engineering" and technological advances, we have a 1.9 litre turbo diesel engine developing approx 130 bhp in standard form, some tuning places can offer modest increases in power (approx 30%) and torque, for example www.tuningbox.com. What we have is a full remap offering just over 48% increase in power, whilst i think this is tremendous and very well done to the firms concerned, i cannot see how any manufacturer can build in this tolerance for tuning ? The VW Golf was offered with varying power outputs, my understanding that the 150bhp TDI`s engine (unit injector, code ARL) was made of different parts to the 68/90/100 bhp non unit injector, i would assume more robust ones to deal with the extra power. If the manufacturer feels it necessary to uprate the engine for an increase of 50 bhp how do we go on with 63bhp increases ? I owned a Vauxhall Omega 2.5TD with a box fitted and it really made a difference, so it`s not as if i`m against tuning TD`s, far from it, my concerns are that we may drastically reduce the life of our new motors by increasing the power and torque way beyond the engine designers brief. Any one else at all concerned, or do any remap firms care to offer an insight !!

Can`t really comment on other peoples car, but ours is also a 53 plate with non folding rear seat 1.9 tdi comfort and when the outside temperature goes below 4 degrees it pings and the symbols flash ( i think it`s meant to be a snowflake !)-bloody hell John, if yours isn`t doing it, just be grateful !!! :thumbup:

I do wear a seat belt, but don`t see the neccesity of a chime to remind me to do so. There are enough pinging chimes going off when you turn the ignition on, when you have not fuelled up, filled up the washer bottle, and the temp is below 4celsius, to keep any avid Jean Michel Jarre fans happy for life, sometimes i wonder if i`ve become part of the film Close Encounters !! Anyway enough of this, anyone know the answer to my question (without "stating the bleeding obvious") Thanks.

I have just read an earlier post on another part of this site regarding the seat belt reminder chime and how to stop it sounding by disconnecting it (by following the wire to a connector beneath the front of the seat) and i can see why people would want to do it. Does anyone know if this sensor is part of the seat belt pre tensioner electronic safety system, and would disconnecting it make the safety system think no one was using the seat belt and therfore not "fire" the pre tensioner charge ? :confused: