Gareth Storey

Well i still havent got it fully sorted.. Replaced the coolant temp sensor just incase the pattern one that came with the thermo housing was duff and that made no difference. Got my hands on a map sensor and switched it out and that made no difference. Ive even gone as far as changing out the fuel pump as tge symtoms it was giving pointed towards a failing pump. Has my head melted now tbh. When you first start the engine it runs rough for about 5/10 seconds then settles which tbh we could live with. The problem is that it when being driven it sometimes hesitates and if you accelerate hard from a stop or when filtering it can bog then hesitate before it goes but if you apply the throttle gently it doesn't do it.

No mate. So far ive changed the plugs, coil pack and have swapped the inectors around. I also removed the throttle body and map sensor and cleaned them bit its still logging a cyl 2 misfire. Let me know how you go with the cts please as im at my wits end haha

The only code it has been logging is 16686 - cyl 2 misfire. The complete thermostat housing and cts was replaced last year and it hasnt skipped a beat until a week ago. Its the engine that runs a wasted spark with 1 complete coil pack across all 4 cylinders and no ht leads. I understand that the cts does effect the engine but why would a dodgey cts only effect cyl 2 and not the rest

Hi there. My missus has a 2002 1.4 mpi which over the last week has developed a misfire when cold but if left to fully warm up it runs perfect. I have changed the plugs and checked and cleaned all the breather and vacum pipes but there has been no change. The ecu logs a code for a misfire on cyl 2 so at Least i know where the problem lies. I also have a almost new coil pack on its way as a mate had one lying in his garage. Any ideas where the problem could lie? Im thinking that if i get the coil pack and its still the same then the issue may lie with the injector. Thanks for reading

hey folks just hoping that someone has had and solved the issue i currently have .We have had the car in question for 2 years and over that time it has shown an intermitent fault code of - 17524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1 P1116 - 35-00 - Open Circuit over the last couple of weeks it has registered more and more often to the point where it is constantly logged when i connect it up to the diagnostic machine . At the begining of the week i bit the bullet and bought and oem sensor and fitted it to the car hoping it would be and easy fix but it has not changed it in the slightest . I'm ust hoping that someone has experienced the same problem and can point in the correst direction without me having to trace wires looking for an issue . thanks for reading . G

cheers for the help anyway mate , just one more thing if you can ..... do you know what size the multislpine bolts heads are for the inner cv joints as i don't really wanna shell out for a full set just to take the shafts of cheers.

tbh i figured as much but the clutch was completely fine until we stopped driving it last thursday so i fail to see how it has gone when the car hasn't even been moved

hey folks , i was wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue and if there is any way to resolve it . last week the alternator went on my 1.4 8v , the new one finally arrived today and after fitting and checking that the charging circuit was working i decided to take it for a spin . when the car is switched off the car will go into gear fine but when it is started it will not . if i start the car in gear it starts to creep . i have bled the clutch and the slave cylinder is working properly so i have narrowed it down to the clutch friction plate being seized to either the flywheel or the pressure plate . has anyone had a similar issue and where you able to resolve it without taking the box out , thank gareth

hey folks , have just tested the charging circuit with my multimeter and it seems that it is the voltage regulator on the alternator , when the car was started the battery voltage hovered around 11.5v but as it sat it then started to drop steadily . i then revved the engine quite hard ( alot harder than 2500rpm which alot of people have suggested ) once i did this the system kicked in and started charging to just over 14v . i have also checked the signal wire and it has no breaks and a consistant voltage .

cheers for that sean , tbh i kinda suspected as much . they battery was replaced by the AA last year and although i think it's ok it did suffer a bit earlier in the year due to a faulty mono-block amplifier that was staying on after the ignition was switched off and was draining the battery . after a little further investigation last night i noticed that if i start the car without revving it and load the electrical system by switching everything on then it discharges the battery very quickly if i start playing with the steering , but if i start it and give it a good rev then it seems to run fine . I'm just waiting on my "mate" dropping my multimeter off so i can check if it's charging ... but i suspect that it may be a faulty alternator or a fault in the charging circuit somewhere although when i switch the ignition on the battery light comes on and goes off as it should? anyway it's all just theory and speculation until i test it fully . cheers . Gareth

hey folks i was wondering if anyone else has had the same issue with their fabia . for the second day running the car has lost all electrical power while driving , the first thing i notice is the radio switching off followed by the power steering then everything electrical shuts down , if the engine stays running then it's fine but if the engine dies which it has done twice , then there is not enough power to restart it again . has anyone else experienced this issue with their car and if so what was the fix , thanks . Gareth