xreyuk

Hi Guys, I have a 1.6TDI CR Seat Leon with 67,300 miles on the clock. I have used this the past 2 years for work, and clocked up all of those miles in 2 years (a lot of motorway driving). However, we will now be getting vans for work, meaning I'm sat with a 1.6TDI CR that will only ever be used for town driving from now on. Obviously, this has me worrying about DPF issues etc, and I'm wondering whether to change car (although I cannot afford to go 'better'). The problem I have is that I lose money on the car if I trade it in, and I don't think I'll get a brilliant price for it if I sell privately because the paintwork has taken the usual chips from motorway driving (it also has a small dent above the drivers side wheel). However, on the other side of the argument, I could do with some extra cash to get the bathroom done at the new house. What would you do? Keep the car and use it for town driving (it's well specced, parking sensors, sat nav etc). Sell the car privately and use the cash for a newer, less specced, older car and get the bathroom done. As above, but trade in instead of sell? Thanks

I have a Seat Leon 1.6TDI CR. Handbook says: 120k, 4 years Seat customer services told me: 140k, 5 years, Seat dealer no.1 said : 80k, 5 years Seat dealer no.2 said 60k, 5 years Seat dealer no.3 said 50k, 5 years Seat customer services said: 140k, 4 years Seat customer services then said: 140k, 5 years, after telling me the previous guy had made a mistake. (all distances in miles) So in all honesty, I haven't a ******* clue. Going off the law of averages I was told by a guy I know who works in a SEAT garage, he said aim for 80k, 5 years, as 80k seems to be around the common failure point for most previous belts. The new belt is supposed to be uprated, but do you want to take that chance? The only thing that seems right is that the time interval was increased to 5 years.

I'm running the 1.6CR in a Leon, and as you can see from my sig, after 18 months and ~45k I'm not doing bad Please bear in mind that my figures are with a full boot of very heavy equipment, and I also carry extra in the back, so I reckon you could easily average 66/67mpg in this car.

For anyone who is interested, there is rumoured to be a new lens and CMOS sensor becoming available for the Mobius camera next month. The lens gives a wider angle, and from the videos I've seen, you'll be able to see the whole windscreen and the A pillar with the new upgrade. If you want it, you can buy the parts yourself and upgrade, or it will be sold in the new mobius units when it's released. It's going to be about $13 USD for the lens, and $27 for the lens + CMOS sensor (the CMOS sensor is better though)

It gets a LOT warmer running on battery than on USB power. I ran it on battery for a couple of hours on a warm day in summer and couldn't touch the thing when it finished, and nearly burned myself on the heatsink. Fast forward a day, same temps etc, ran it on USB power and it was much cooler.

So you're glad with my recommendation then Zeffania? :P

I didn't. The seller I linked to marked it up as only being worth about $15 I think. Probably the price he buys em at.

Yeah 59.9 minutes you're looking at on an 8GB card

No worries, glad to help, it really is great quality, and it's nice and small too. You can configure it to make smaller files by changing the bit rate quality (I think it's low, medium and high). By default it's set to medium which is around 15Mbps average rate, where as high (which is what I use) is 18Mbps. At 18Mbps with a 32GB card, you can expect roughly 4 hours of recording. If you read the manual though (http://www.mytempfiles.info/mobius/index.html) I believe by pressing the mode button during recording will lock the current file, meaning it can't be overwritten (in case you're on a long journey and want to keep it.)

Really easy. You do need a Windows computer though. You download the software from here and just plug the camera in via the small USB cable that's supplied with it (you use the longer one I linked to in the car). You then just open up the program and you can change all of the settings, and it also has a built in firmware update check. You can use the program to update the firmware, it will tell you on the main screen what version you have, and what the latest one is. If you have an android phone, you can buy an OTG USB adapter (here is one for Samsung Galaxy S3), connect it to the USB cable and you can download the android app (search for therau2000 in the store, and download the mobius app), you can then re-configure the camera from your app instead of connecting to the computer.

You want a Mobius Action Cam. Easily the best around for the money. Camera: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151071891306?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 - £44.89 Windscreen Mount: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181166005622?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 - £2.93 USB Car Charger Adapter: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180942478506?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 - £2.59 3m USB Cable: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151072001797?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 - £3.19 Total Price: £53.60 (all prices are todays exchange rate) Only very slightly over your budget, but easily the best camera around for the price, and it's only about the size of a car key. Doesn't have GPS though, but great picture quality. Click Here to Download Samples and choose the one titled '1080p30 day drive' for use a dashcam. There is also a night sample there as well. You will need a MicroSD card for recording though. Kit, see above

I've just bought a Mobius Action Cam as my second dashcam, for around £48 delivered. If you want to download some samples from Techmoan you can see the quality of this camera is awesome. It uses the same CMOS as the DR32 I believe, but a slightly modified version. If anyone wants any information on it, let me know. I'm not sure whether this will be my front or rear yet, as my current front one (DoD F520) has a polarising filter on the front of it to reduce windscreen reflections.

Just in case people read this, it's technically not true about gear ratios. I have the 'Greenline' version of the car, which is a 1.6TDI with extended gear ratios. At 70mph on the motorway it's 1,900RPM. From what I understand about the 2.0TDI with 6 gears, it's around 2,500RPM on the motorway.

A golf ball marker.

It's not just performance and better mpg thought, it does have cleaning agents in to help keep everything inside clean. It's definitely not snake oil, but here it's nearly 7p per litre more than standard, and it's whether you think that's worth it.

Actually ignore me. I maybe should have checked what forum this was in before I made that comment

The pump is electric.

All of the documentation available to our American friends on TDI club, says that turning the key on CR engines does NOT prime the fuel pump. I've never been able to find anything on any other sources, other than the Bentley/VW manuals the TDIClub guys have. The only way to prime the fuel pump is manually, or by using VCDS to purge air from the fuel lines. The most common one is people wanting to re-fill the fuel filter housing after changing the fuel filter and emptying the housing. This page here, and this video also say the same thing.

Is this available yet, or have they announced one?

I don't think anyone's going to lose their job. The advert was designed to go viral, and it has gone viral. Lots of people will watch that video and suddenly be aware of a new model of car Hyundai make and realise that it's water only emissions. Bad taste? Yes, effective? Most certainly.

Nice footage guys Any of you guys with DoD cameras, do you notice the video quality reduce if you have the video flipped?

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I don't rate many after market warranties and know people who've had them and they just try and wriggle out of claims. I think I might try taking it to an independent up here. Anyone know any good garages near Southport/Preston/Liverpool/Manchester? Thanks.

Cheers thanks a lot. I've been having an ongoing issue with SEAT for 6 months now, complaining about low power, poor mpg etc. The filters have been changed recently (within the last 4k) and this problem has been going on longer than that. I'm going to book it in with them and get it sorted. I've just come out of warranty and they're trying to wash their hands of paying for it, but with the potential for such a major problem, I'm not letting them off the hook with this one.

Hey guys, Looking for some help here. Firstly, I've recently had a problem with low power, hard starting and poorer mpg in my Seat Leon 1.6TDI CR. It was suggested I check the fuel filter, even though it had been changed. When I checked the housing, I found quite a few metal particles in the filter housing. A couple of people I've spoken to have said this is normal up to a certain amount of particles, as they service VAG engines all the time and said they see a few particles quite often on diesels. However, some people I've spoken to, who are also in the know about cars, say it's definitely not normal to see any contamination like that in the fuel filter. However, everyone has said that if there are any/too many metal particles, it could be a sign of a HPFP failure, especially as I've seen other symptoms that are consistent with it. The filter has been changed twice since I've owned it (34k miles), but the housing has never been drained, so the picture shows build up from the whole 34k. Obviously I don't know whether they've appeared slowly but steadily or if they've appeared all at once. I'm after some advice as to what people think about this, and here is a link to the picture: http://f.cl.ly/items...0r/IMG_0299.jpg I've also heard a rattling noise that I need help identifying, here is the video: You can hear it at the start of the video, then it fades away as I go near the back of the engine bay, and then as you come to the front of the engine bay you can hear it again. As always, any help appreciated

Sorry to bump an old thread, but did you ever get this sorted, I've been having the exact same problem in colder weather for the past month or so. Now the weather is warming up it's not as bad. It is idling higher than it used to when I first start it to. Last year at these temperatures it was starting and then idling around 750RPM straight away. Now when I start it, it idles at around 950RPM until I move then by the end of the road drops to 750RPM.