Sprucegoose

Hey Guys, My Driver's side power window was acting funny, it would roll up in increments. And finally the door control module just gave way. When this happened, central locking and power windows on the other doors were working fine. When I removed the Door control module, all central locking and power windows stopped working. I replaced the defective door module with a new one, but still nothing works. When my mechanic tweaks it, he can get either the Driver's door locking or the Driver's power window to work. The other three don't and the central locking and power window don't work together. Also now the Auto open/close function doesn't work. Any help? Do i need to do any recoding? I think it's highly unlikely that all the remaining Door control modules suddenly stopped working all at once. Could also be a wiring issue, which we are going to check once the rain subsides. Regards, Sprucegoose

fixed... got the fuel gauge off the local flea market. Works now

Yeah, I know... Does anyone have the part number? Here they are asking for a sample, but I don't have the correct one

did that... same issue... that's the strange thing, swapped the wires on the gauge itself, and got the same. No fuel shows full tank and vice versa

Hey guys, The fuel gauge on my vRS is acting strange..... it is working upside down. When the tank is full, it shows empty and when the tank is empty it shows full. I recently changed the fuel gauge on the fuel sender unit. My mechanic is telling me that the fuel gauge is from a diesel Skoda that's why it's not working. But unfortunately i don't have the original Fuel Gauge. The number on the fuel gauge circuit is 647. Does anyone have a high res image of the fuel sender unit with number on the fuel gauge circuit showing? Also, both the door control modules on the right side are not working. We are planning to fix those as new modules aren't available in India. Regards, Shekhar

I want it just as a project. don't really need it. This is just something I want to do. My only issues are that the parts are not available in India, so I want to do as much research as I can before I decide to do it or not. Importing Vehicles into India is really expensive. we've got like a 300% import duty on second hand cars.

Getting parts from a scrapped Yeti will be far far cheaper than any other option. but are the parts the same? from the Yeti and the 4x4 Octy? Will the amount of work be the same if I import the 4x4 Octy parts or if I procure Yeti parts. My car currently has the AUM 1.8T 20V engine and is a manual transmission. I presume I will need to mate the entire transmission [front and rear] with the original engine. With the 4x4 Octy, all the parts will be bolt on, except that i'll have to fabricate a read differential mounting point right? and then use 4x4 suspension on it. The only 4x4 VAG vehicles sold in India as far as i know are the Skoda Yeti Audi Q series SUVs Audi Quattro vehicles [A4 Quattro].

I am also interested in doing a AWD conversion for my vRS. Unfortunately, the 4x4 Octy was not sold in India. We do have the AWD Yeti though, will it be possible to use parts from that car? I read your thread on the Citigo 4x4 conversion, it was damn cool. I presume an Octy conversion would be simpler right?

Hey guys, where can i find the part number of the Rear Right Power Window control module? The one that controls the central locking and window? Here are the numbers I got off the Part: on Plastic: >PA6-GF40+TPE< On Sticker: 104420-302 05 072 95 HW12 S0202 200704 22 1931

I'm from Mumbai. and now it's louder and more crowded than it's ever been. Kerala is a beautiful place. God's own country as they call it. We've got a lot of Stage 1 & 2 remapped vRS's here and they run on 93 Octane fuel just fine. A friend of mine has a stage 2 and he was telling me that with my FMIC, Airfilter and FFE if I do a stage 2 remap, i'll be churning out around 220 to 240 WHP. and here a Stage 2 remap is marginally more expensive than a Stage 1 Remap. but then i'll need to get uprated brakes and suspension as well, which are REALLY expensive.

Thanks alot guys, Ambient temperature in the summer in India does get really [censored] hot. In the afternoons it generally crosses the 45 Degree Celcius mark with really high humidity. You can't live without the AC. Right now in Jan [an Indian Winter] at 3:00 PM its already around 32 Degrees in the shade. Out here, tuners generally advise against water injection. they say it's not worth the effort or money. Besides the regular fuel in India is 88 Octane. and the Premium Petrol is 91 or 93 Octane. Their logic is if they had good enough fuel, then they would do water injection and stuff.

The tuner is a very close friend of mine, so that won't be a problem. And I'm getting quite a Large Front Mounted Intercooler. Will be mounting it in front of the radiator. Hopefully the radiator fan will help cool it when idling. What is a boost surge condition? As for a proper remap, I don't have any personal experience, but a friend is driving a Stage 2 remapped vRS and swears by it. The only problem he has is that his coil packs have failed twice. What is the difference between and AUM and AUQ engine? Can I run an AUQ map on an AUM engine?

That's the plan. Getting an FMIC, and in a couple of months [because of cash flow problems] getting a Stage 1 Remap. Getting a Fairly large FMIC. My tuner, tuned a vRS to around 250 - 300 WHP with the same one. But that car had a lot more modifications. Thanks man, will PM you my email address. I know a tuner, will try to get it done for free. The Stock is good, very good infact, but i'll eventually want more power I usually get an FFE and Air Filter installed. This is my first turbo charged car, so getting an FMIC also. Eventually [when the cash scene permits] I'll get a remap done too. Yup, I know. A good remap is generally more powerful and smoother than a stock Map. Wanted to see if I could use the Stock UK map as an interim solution, before I do a proper Stage 1 Remap. Hoping to save on some moolah.

the word in India says its between 140 ad 160. Is there any way I can get a UK spec map on my car? and will it have any adverse effects on the engine?

Think i have the AUM engine. pasting results from a VCDS Scan [not pasted all of the contents] Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AUM.lbl Part No: 06A 906 032 HJ Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003 Coding: 11500 Shop #: WSC 00028 VCID: 6DDBEA0C278ADFB TMBELL1UX4A025505 SKZ7Z0D2607420

Thanks man... am planning to get a remap also, but in a couple of months. Just didn't want to cause any damage to the engine. Most of the guys who do remaps here say that if you don't remap the engine, you will damage it.

Hey guys, I've got a Octavia [MK1] vRS and I'm getting an FMIC, Performance Air filter, Free Flow Exhaust and diverter Valve installed. Do I need to do a Remap along with these modifications? Was planning to get the Remap done in a couple of months, but I've been told that it'll be bad for the engine to get all this done without a Remap. any advice will be helpful. Also, I've got an India Spec vRS which produces about 160 BHP, is there any way i can get the UK Spec map which produces 180 BHP? - Sprucegoose

Try changing the fuel Filter... My engine used to cut out all the time when i was on less than half a tank of petrol. Changed the Fuse Box on top of the battery, to no avail. Removed the Fuel pump and found the petrol in the Tank was really dirty. Cleaned up the dirt and then changed the fuel filter. The fuel gauge would also jump around the place... when i'd idle the car, the fuel gauge would drop drastically, like if i was on a half tank, it would drop to less than quarter and stuff like that. Even the Distance to Empty [DTE] read out would drop when i would idle the car. After the Fuel Filter change, the stalling stopped, the car became more responsive and low RPMs and it revvs though it's range smoother and quicker. I also sand papered the contacts on the fuel gauge sensor on the fuel pump.

Thanks for the inputs guys. The thing is, here in India we have no car inspections like you guys in the UK do. I drove my old car for over a month with no electricals [apart from the car starting, nothing else electrical would work. That includes horn, headlights, indicators, music system, wipers, AC blowers. Even the radiator fan wouldn't work].. used the car basically for short runs down to the cigarette shop and back. moment i saved up some money i got it completely rebuilt. Also the resale value of a Diesel car over here is about 3 - 4 times higher than a Petrol car. A lot of people want to [if possible] get their cars converted to Diesel, as the price of diesel is also substantially lower than that of petrol. not a lot of people in India are familiar with Skodas as they are quite pricey compared to a Jap / Locally made car [tata ,maruti, etc.] and the Authorised Service Centers are just ridiculous in India.. they are known to cheat people on quite a regular basis and themselves don't know much about the cars. So getting any help from them is out of the question. This is the kind of **** Skoda in India does. http://www.team-bhp....ed-4-years.html While their cars are brilliant, the Customer Support is ****e. The reason for transplanting Diesel into Petrol because a lot of people who have got the petrol MK1s [non vRS] want to convert to Diesel. vRS owners are generally happy and wouldn't convert. Also Labour costs in India are ridiculous [low] and most Skoda parts are sourced at a fraction of the price from the shady Authorised Service Centers and from Scrap shops, where cars are scavenged for parts. So doing a conversion if it means only swapping out parts rather than modifications to the chassis as well would work out cheaper.

Hey guys, A friend is planning to convert a couple of Petrol [2.0L] MK1's into Diesel [1.9L]. Apart from the obvious like the engine, gearbox, their mounting and foundation are there any other significant changes that he will have to make? Like modifications to the chassis, changing the suspension, wiring to the convenience units [power windows et al]. He wants to know if it is viable before he gets into it. in India, people prefer to buy diesel cars as they give better mileage and the price of diesel is almost half that of petrol. He's got a couple of 2.0 Liter MK1s and has a couple of scrapped Diesel MK1s, so most of the parts should be there. Thanks

Great look man... this is what i want my car to look like... but with 16" alloys...

History: Well i got tired of the OHC [Old honda City Type 1 1998 model] and after all the stuff i had got done to the car, realised that most of all i missed good music. So i decided that when i get an opportunity, i'd get a stock car that i don't need to modify right away. I also quit my job, so funds are tight and my mum is not keeping too well, so i cannot have the car in the workshop for more than a day or 2 at a time and funds are further more restricted. 1> Got the Car for 3L INR. Paid 1L upfront Will Pay 1L when i can afford to and that too in installments. And Exchanged the OHC [Removed the Amp though] 2> Known Problems with the Car Suspension on it's way out Tyres are bald and cracking. Leaking Intercooler [fixed before taking the car] Right Wing Mirror Glass is broken Car stalls when on less than half a tank of petrol Driver's power window is dodgy Headlights are not in good shape Failed O2 sensor [b1S2] Broken Top Glass of sunroof [fixed before taking the car] AC vent vanes broken Ashtray and cup holders broken Interiors out of whack 3> Problems Found out after getting the car Leak in Cooling System [Neck that houses the Coolant temperature sender] Lots of electrical problems [Traced back to a Dying Battery and a Faulty Fuse box atop it] A couple of Dings and Dents. Headlights are royally messed up. One fog light housing is rusting, the Glass needed to be buffed from inside and out, one ballast had failed, mounting clips were damaged. Wiring was messed up as well. The car Makes noises in first second and third gear when at low RPMs [i think its the Gear box mounting] Sunroof packed up. Problem with the rails [the Fiber part.] Leaking sunroof [Drainage pipes were blocked] AC Drainage pipe is blocked, so water leaks into the passenger compartment when the AC is on. 4> Build so far Got Focal Performance series speakers with an Alpine 9855 HU with Dynamat Extreme [stage 1] damping on the front doors [iNR 40000] Got the Headlights Buffed from inside and out. [iNR 4000] Got New HIDs 6000K [iNR 6000] Unblocked the Sunroof Drainage pipes Changed the Cooling neck where the coolant temperature sender sits. [iNR 2300] 5> The way forward [not in any particular order] [This I am getting done right now] Fix the Stalling problem That will include replacing the O2 sensor, Changing the Battery and getting a new fuse box. Rewire the ICE Fit my DLS Reference RA40 Amplifier to the 4 speakers & Connect the Pioneer Amp [that came with the car] to a Sub. Get Tein SS Suspension with an EDFC [open to suggestions, but i'd preferably want an electronically adjustable one that on the stiffest setting is stiffer than stock ones] Get a set Yokohama S.Drives stock size on stock rims Paint job [Magic Black] New Headlights [Getting the stock Diesel Octy ones as they are cheaper and try to DIY fix the vRS ones myself] Sort out the interiors Add some lights to the interiors [not neons, but the regular interior lights. two for the back seat and one more in the boot], put in brighter LEDs rather than the dull halogen bulbs. Fix the Sunroof Get new glass for the Right side wing mirror Fix the Driver's power window Get an uprated clutch Build a car PC Stage 1 Remap [Air Filter, a really soft FFE]. This will happen last of all 6> The Wish List [this is a wish list.... This stuff will only happen if i get filthy rich, or Bill Gates, or some like walletted person adopts me.] R32 Steering Rack Racing Seats in the front and an extra padding of foam on the back seats. R32 FARB with a Neuspeed 28mm RARB AWD conversion [as far as i know we don't get 4x4 Octys in India] Upgrade to about 300HP without adversely affecting daily drivability. [this will only happen if i do the AWD conversion] And put some Gadgets inside, ala James Bond... hopefully the Bond girls will follow then 7> Questions Will Doing a SAI, N249, N75, N112 delete improve performace or FE, without adversely affecting the other? Hypothetically can i put in 205/50R18 Alloys & Tyres, to Raise the car abit while reducing the gap between the wheel and the arch. Will it foul the suspension / transmission. I presume the performance will drop slightly. 8> Purpose Well i want a quick car, with decent mileage, that just works. I also wanted a heavy car, used to get scared driving on undulating roads in the OHC. Considering the price point i got this at, i know there is alot of work to be done, but none of it is major. And unfortunately my mum fell sick at the wrong time, [there is never a right time] but just as i had accumulated the cash for getting the essentials done, i couldn't let go of the car, or the cash. 9> Plan to do a dyno run shortly [in a month or so] and do one each time i add something performance oriented to the car. Pics of the car [though not very flattering] coming soon.

I have a similar problem, but my car only stalls when I'm on less than half a tank of petrol. I do have the CEL on though for the O2 sensor. And my fuel filter and pump are apparently fine

@GeeW8performance: Do you know where I can get these lights for my Octy from? Slightly reluctant to use ebay because not found any pairs, the prices differ for individual headlights. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f147d9736 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f1a1597d8 Original Headlights are just TOO expensive.