Kiwibacon

Fixed and it sounds great. I spliced four cross-over filters in place of the main amp. The car has two feeds to each door. Main and tweeter are on the same feed and will have some filtering somewhere. Woofer has it's own feed. Head-unit has only one feed for each door. Wire colours: From Head-Unit on plug A. Pins 20/21 White and Brown feed for Right Rear speakers. Pins 17/18 Black and Brown feed for Left Rear speakers. Pins 14/15 Green and Brown feed for Right Front speakers. Pins 11/12 Blue and Brown feed for Left Front speakers. To Speakers on plug B. These are all twisted pairs. Pins 1/2 White and White/Brown to Left Rear Mid and Tweeter Pins 4/5 Blue and Brown/Blue to Right Rear Woofer Pins 3/6 Red/Green and Brown/Green to Left Rear Woofer Pins 7/8 Yellow and Brown/Yellow to Right Rear Mid and Tweeter Pins 10/11 Red/Yellow and Brown/Yellow to Left Front Mid and Tweeter Pins 12/15 Blue/White and Brown/White to Left Front Woofer Pins 13/14 Red and Brown/Red to Right Front Woofer Pins 16/17 Blue/Black and Brown/Black to Right Front Mid & Tweeter This leaves 2 wires on plug A and 6 wires on plug B unused. A look like Canbus and B look like power wires for the original amplifier. I plan to bundle them safely and leave them in the connector. Filters/Cross-overs: I purchased 3 way cross-overs (from aliexpress) with woofer, mid and tweeter outputs because I thought they were needed. They're not. I found the mid-tweeter setup sounds best when driven straight from the head-unit feed, I was losing top-end clarity when it was connected to the "mid" and sounding scratchy when connected to "tweeter". Connected directly to the feeds they mid and tweeters sound great. So I'm only using the cross-overs to filter the woofer inputs. Which I could have acheived a whole lot quicker and cheaper with smaller units that have fewer connections. Wiring: I just had to identify and label the wire pairs, extend them and wire them in. It's not difficult work but takes a methodical approach. Other than that I've lost the button functions on my chinese android head-unit and the slot in the face that looks just like a micro-SD card slot isn't. Feed a card into that and it's not coming back! Hopefully this can help someone else.

Today I pulled out the passengers seat, pulled the factory amp and set to identifying wires. There are two connectors. I'm calling them A and B. B is the input. Looks like a pair of power wires and 8 inputs. These inputs are speaker pairs and direct connection to the block connector behind the head-unit. A looks like output. It's got a couple of bigger likely power wires and then 20 others. I'm out of time for today but I've identified one pair of pins in the connector A that powers up the mid and tweeter speakers on the LHR door. Jumping those across to inputs on B gives me sound. So far soo good. I purchased 4 three-way filtering cross-overs from Aliexpress and planned to wire those in place of the factory amp. But I should have counted wires first. It appears I may only need 2 way crossovers. We shall see.

I had a bizarre issue with front indicator bulbs a few years back. Everything tested okay. Unplug and replug didn't help much. I finally took both headlamps out completely and plugged them into the opposite sides. Where they both worked normally. I put them back in their correct sides and they then worked normally and have for the 2+ years following. I suspect contacts were a little corroded and being unplugged and replugged about 4x each eventually brightened them enough to fix it. But 1x each wasn't enough.

So interesting development. Today after an oil change and service reset I used VCDS to check block 47 - Sound System. The amp turned on for about 3 seconds and the speakers played. Then it stopped. Repeat the test and same every time. So it appears VCDS has some ability to turn this amp on. But how do I do it longer term? Does anyone know how the VCDS coding works for this block?

I've fitted an android head-unit in place of the Audience MP3 in my Octavia 2 Scout. This car has the 12 speaker system with a DPS amplifier under the passenger seat. The amp is allegedly activated by Canbus and I cannot get it to respond. So no sound out the speakers. Everything else on canbus works fine. I have tried the battery disconnect trick with no success. Plugging the old head-unit back in works fine. So what options exist for plug-ins to bypass or replace the existing amplifier? Are there any? I presume this setup is common to many VAG group cars but I don't have the right search terms to find them. Manually splicing two dozen wires is a last resort at this stage. I'd far rather order something from the other side of the world and wait for it.

A bit of a thread dredge. But I'm having the same issue. Octavia 2 Scout with Audience Headunit and the factory amp under the passengers seat. Installed an aftermarket android HU and everything works except sound. I have volts AC on speaker outputs. I have canbus control working for everything else (steering wheel buttons, steering angle etc). But I have no sound through the speakers. Disconnecting the battery didn't help. I've done that overnight. Reconnecting the stock HU works fine. Does anyone have a work-around, known working canbus adapter or other method that doesn't involve splicing 2 dozen wires?

Just to wrap this up, in-case someone else has been looking for a solution. I made a short tail-light harness with resistor packs for the 4 tail/running lights, reverse lights and indicator circuits with the stop light circuit straight through. This tricks the Skoda into working perfectly with the trailer and is unplugged the rest of the time. I used 4x 26 ohm ceramic block resistors that were rated at 21 watt 12v.

So this gets more interesting/infuriating. Trailer controller is ANHAENGERELEKTR 001 0020 VAG Number 1K0 907 383 I can use output tests to turn on brake lights and blinkers. I cannot use output tests to turn on the side markers/tail lights. There are two different reverse light outputs. "backup lights" which is part of the output tests doesn't work. But "backup light" on channel 12 is activated when the car is put into reverse (even though the trailer light doesn't light up). The tail-light, stop and indicators all work on an incandescent light board I have when plugged into the same car. My other euro cars (much older and dumber than the skoda) have two side marker/tail outputs. Skoda does the same in the controller and maybe the same at the plug. This isn't the cause of the problem but it may explain wiring faults it displays with some trailers and lack of reversing signal. I may have some quality multimeter time ahead.

I run 215/55R16 winters on my Scout. Fit great, They're about 643mm OD. Slightly smaller than the scout standard size (657mm) but slightly bigger than the non-scout models (632mm for 205/55r16).

How are you liking the block heater? I installed the electric 1kw PTC heater in the heater box. Install was a bit more of a mission (running large wires to fuse box, splicing control wires into CAN-BUS) but I'm very very happy with the result. Pretty much instant heat in winter and faster engine warm up too.

It's extremely easy to tell the difference between a previously snapped off injector bolt and a freshly snapped off one. Check how bright, shiney and new the fracture surfaces are. Did the dealer snap off injector bolts in the head while trying to get them out for the inspection camera? BTW missing or leaking injector washers puts a carbon mist up onto the head. I've seen it on a mates old Focus. Looks like melted coal has been poured around the injectors.

Thanks, any idea where to look in VCDS? If it can't support LED's then I can make up a resistor pack. But if there is a coding solution it'll be quicker.

Dealer installed I presume at purchase time. I'm the second owner so didn't get to ask those questions. All the Octavia 2 Scout's I've seen here in NZ have the same towbar and wiring package. It's a locally built tow-bar as we use a different ball size and tongue style to the UK. Electrically it's a 7 pin flat plug same as Australia which plugs into the car harness somewhere up out of reach. I know indicators, tail lights and brake light circuits work. I haven't checked reverse as only my LED trailer has reversing lamps. It's smart enough to tell you if your trailer has an incandescent bulb out or wiring fault. Also sets off the alarm if you disconnect a trailer while the car is locked.

Finally found someone else with an issue. This was a Toureg: https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/diy-led-load-resistors-for-trailer-with-led-lights.270393/post-2019911 Can anyone tell me about VCDS coding for trailer load monitoring? I have the VCDS lead.

Does anyone have any workarounds or easy fixes for LED trailer lights not working? Everything works fine on trailers with incandescent bulbs. The LED trailer works perfectly fine on other vehicles, but on the Scout only the brake lights work correctly. The side/clearance lights flash forever, the indicators don't work. Didn't check reverse lights.