sri16v

Well I have the door open, took the window regulator motor off the passenger rear door, plugged it in and unlocked the car, door opened! Does anyone know the part no. Needed? Seen a couple on ebay that look the same, but unsure if there is a difference? Only other problem I have is, I manged to knock the splined cable pulley for the window into the door! Drilled the speaker rivets out and got it out, but I'm unsure as to the cable routing, as the cable seems quite slack

Unfortunately not, it's deadlocked shut, tried from the outside and inside. Had no joy last time I looked, so scrap heaven is looking likely, will try one more time on the weekend, going to swap over the window regulators. It would be a shame to scrap it, but I don't really want to spend the money on it, and without an mot it's next to worthless.

I haven't had another look at the car since last weekend, but I am planning to tommorow. I tested the resistance of the motor on the window regulator and it was around 3 ohms from memory, so I don't believe the issue is the window regulator, and the fact I have 12v supply there. Got to get it sorted this weekend as the MOT is looming in 2 weeks, otherwise its off to the scrap heap in the sky!

Just an update as I may have found the issue and it may help others in future. Decided to take another look at the A and B pillar looms, disconnected the drivers door loom and checked the wiring again and all looked OK. Did a continuity test on the earth from the b pillar to the drivers loom and it was all good, did the same with the power cable and it was intermittent, disconnected the block and noticed corrosion on the earth and positive terminals. Also checked for Continuity on the can bus wires from the rear door which were all good. Cleaned them up with pcb cleaner and some isopropyl spray. I found 2 32 amp fuses had blown in the fuse board which may be related to the bad connection and me cleaning and not drying off. I'm hoping 2 new 32 amp fuses and removing the positive and earth cables from the block and cleaning up the blade ferrule will solve it. Got some arriving tommorow, so fingers crossed

The rear door and window not working was prior to the battery going flat, probably around 4 or 5 months ago I first noticed it not working. I will give the battery disconnection method a try tommorow

I had to bump start the car to get it started this morning, I will give that a try tommorow. It's been a fault since last year but as I rarely use the car I forgot all about it until I remembered the MOT is up in the next few weeks.

Yep have checked for earth continuity and it seems to be good. I'm guessing the next step is to drill out the rivets and remove the panel to gain access to the door module controller? The wiring grommet for the rear module is unfortunately not big enough to be able to insert more than 1 finger and remove the plug to test, but the wiring to it all looks good. Also a shame there is no access to mechanically unlock the door via the lock mechanism.

Does the engine stop when coasting to a stop at a junction for example, with the clutch in? I had something similar with my 2.0 PD tdi VRS, also had a stumble/stutter in the mid range. Mine was the DPF pressure sensor, I'm not sure does the 1.9 have a DPF?

Added an image to show what stage I am at

Hi all It's been a long time since I have posted on these forums, I still have my 2006 VRS tdi after 10 years and it had now becime a third vehicle! As the title suggests, my drivers side passenger rear door won't open and the window is also not working. I have done the usual checks for broken wiring at the A pillar and the B pillar and all good, also have 12v at the connectors. I have removed the b pillar trim and also managed to remove the door card with the door still locked shut! I have checked what I assume is the window control module and it has 12v at the connector (whether the motor works is another matter) I am pretty confident there is not a broken wire as I'm reading 12v all the way through to the rear door. My next step is the door lock module, I'm guessing to remove and gain access , that the riveted inner panel needs drilling to access the module? The car only does 1000 miles a year so is left parked up most of the time, I had to charge the battery to get it started and its MOT is looming, hopefully this is not the end for my loyal servant! Any help would be much appreciated!

No its just a standard locking bolt without a collar, I was just hoping someone may have experience of the laser removal tool as ita more for nuts than bolts failing that I will try a torx bit, my set in 3/8 and 1/2" only go up to 50 so will have to see if I can get a 60 from somewhere

Just been doing a brake service on my car and the locking bolts were done up so tight they have now rounded managed to undo the rear and undo the locking bolts and carry out a service on the rear brakes, whoever did the front up when the tyres were changed has overtightened them massively what are my options? Does the laser locking nut removal socket from halfords work on bolts? was going to try a t60 torx but dont think it will grip sufficiently thanks

The problem I had was the key wouldnt come out so it was stuck pretensioned I tapped the lower ball that was under tension on the stem with a hammer and it released the mechanism I have finally figured out how it works, didnt help that I didnt rrealise the red part was a key and when in the locked position on the car that the key can be removed, no wonder my trailor fell of last time I used it thanks for the replies

The ball bearing in the top is under no tension, and there is a gap between the handle and the body of the towbar, Before I managed to lock it in this position I was able to turn the handle but it would snap back into position if it wasnt held, I think I turned it as far as it would go lifted the handle and then lockd with the key to where it is now stuck. the towbar isnt on the car at present

It says oris on the locking cap cover