SKOD

We're these purchased new ? Mine will be 2nd hand and although I would treat the gearbox with respect previous owners may not of done so?

Thank you Skoffski, I presume I would have to contact a skoda dealer to find out what service/technical bulletins have been completed on a particular car or do Skoda have a similar system to Fords' etis system where you just enter reg no on the website?

Would be looking at 2012 to 2014 year. With regards to gear selector switches can these be replaced individually if not using VAG network ?

Is reliability of these as bad as some people make out? Is the 6 Speed more reliable than 7 Speed or the other way around? Thanks

Thanks for responses, looks like the petrol is better for me especially if it does the same mpg as the diesel at a lower cost per litre.

There's more diesels about at the price I can afford the nearest petrol one is over 100 miles away from me :(

I would be looking at 65/16 plate ones my daily commute comprises of 5 miles b roads then 1 mile of town driving then 4 miles of B roads then 2 miles of town driving then 2 miles of town driving then 3 miles of town driving twice a day journey takes between 40 to 1hr each way.

Maybe getting a VAG product with the above engine will be Euro 6 emmisions. Is the 1.6 TDI as bad as some people say it is? My annual mileage is 11,000 so should I be considering the 1.2 or 1.4 instead ? Thanks

Need to replace the bulb that sits behind the fan speed switch and rear number plate bulb, what bulbs do I need to purchase? Thanks

Have decided to keep my car a bit longer and want to tidy up some of the bodywork and the leather steering wheel. Don't want to spend a fortune but do want to make things better, what products do I need to purchase and how to do go about repairs https://flic.kr/s/aHsmePQ1M4

Have decided to keep my car a bit longer and want to tidy up some of the bodywork and the leather steering wheel. Don't want to spend a fortune but do want to make things better, what products do I need to purchase and how to do go about repairs Pictures of bodywork & steering wheel

Had my cambelt, water pump and auxiliary belt replaced in October 2013 at 80,000 miles, bit confused as to when it next need changing? car now has 123,000 miles on it.

@ Yellow car you were correct screws had pulled through and ripped side panel, it seams to me that the main tray is made of a different strength of plastic to that of the main tray so after 12 years its not surprising that it gave up the ghost. Managed to park the car on sloping drive way to gain access. Used cable ties for time being, but the under tray is cracked in the centre at the front think in the past the car has hit a high curb or something as the the front bumper has a curve on the underside or are they meant to be like this? Many thanks

Do Skoda do pcp's for used Skoda's up to 4 year old, if so what are the terms etc? Thanks

Have a look here and you will find out all the miles at each MOT https://totalcarcheck.co.uk/FreeCheck?regk=S157GFM

When I looked it is the main section that has come unfixed on the driver side, I was hoping that I may be able to use the holes that already there and pass zip ties through them

My engine under tray has decided to part company on right-hand side (drivers side) so when the suspension dips on that side it scrapes along the road so needs fixing. I have read a couple of previous forum posts and one of them mentions using cable ties and I have a couple of questions:- (1) Can repairs be done with the car on the ground or would I need to get the car on some ramps like these http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-pair-2-pack/83061? (2) I presume I would need to drill some holes in the under-tray and side cover to pass the cable ties through? Or would it be better to get my local VW/Skoda expert to replace/ repair the under-tray? Help! Thanks

Thanks for the replies, what about these ones. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Mini-ELM327-V1-5-Bluetooth-ODB2-Car-Scanner-Torque-Android-Auto-Scan-Tool-/161643994396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a2bb9d1c http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Mini-ELM327-V2-1-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Adapter-Auto-Scanner-Torque-Android-/261340019288?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cd9143a58 http://www.amazon.co.uk/JINTO-Bluetooth-Interface-Diagnostic-Protocols/dp/B00NSG7FU6/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427072498&sr=1-7&keywords=ELM+327 What's the difference between V1-5 & V2-1?

I am thinking of getting a OBD bluetooth adaptor and Torque pro, any recommendations as to what one to buy ? Budget Max £10.00. Will be using it with my 2004 130 PD, Thanks

Reading through previous posts abot venting, it seems the diesel had a different ventilation system to that of the petrol, so according to these posts ok to vent diesel. But as I said in my 1st post on this matter can't see venting is worth when only extra 3 litres can be put in,

Thanks, I thought so. But how can some people get an extra 10 litres in ?

I keep reading about venting the fuel tank to allow more diesel to be put of up to 10 litres by pressing a button on the filler pipe. Well I tried this last night and all I could get in was about an extra 3 litres before the fuel came up the filler pipe. Not sure that I will do this again as an extra 3 litres seams hardly worthwhile as it would only mean 1 day more before a fill up would be required. Does the range shown by the fuel computer take into account the extra fuel put in?

Just to clarify the price of £500 to £600 inc parts, labour and 20% VAT, and work will be done by ex Skoda/VW technicians. Phoned up Mr Clutch and they want £800 all in, main dealers were £1200 :wonder:

Its a 130 PD TDI, and includes labour at £70 and is for genuine skoda parts, I do not have the skills or the time before I need to tow again in about a weeks time,

Update Have spoken to garage, who advised that if I used the car like I was i.e carefully I could get up to another 6 months. However, when I mentioned that I occasionally tow a small trader he advised that it would be advisable to have the clutch replaced. Have been quoted £500 to £600 for the clutch, and an extra £300 if DMF needs replacing, using genuine parts. Is there any way of finding out if the DMF needs replacing before the gearbox comes out?