Yes_Dear

I have used chains many a time on my old octy and you can't beat them for driving in heavy snow on on thick sheet ice - I was living in Scotland last winter and they made the difference between getting home and not - even with winter tyres. I've tried few varieties over the last few years and in my opinion the best ones I've used (cost vs convenience) are the "weissenfels clack and go pro tech". They are a traditional style chain, but the have clever self tensioning reels in them (think like a retractable tapemeasure) which centre and tension the chains as you drive. I got fitting down to a couple of minutes a side after the first attempt as you don't have to pull them tight yourself. Literally do them up, flick the tension switch and drive off. They pull themselves tight as you pull away. Removing is just as easy as you flick a switch and then pull the cable out of the tensioner, before undoing and driving off them. Hope this is of use

Mine has done it a few times in the last 6 months. The only way I could fix it was to pull the fuse out. I'm assuming it's a software glitch as it always seems to happen if I've moved the car on the drive - I.e. engine running for under 10 secs or so.

I've been using the rSAP app on my desire for the last 4 months, I'd say it works 95% of the time, with the other 5% being solved by restarting the phone. I've certainly not had any issues once it has connected. If it's going to have an issue it won't connect properly in the first place

Mine did that a while ago. I ended up taking the fuse out for 30 secs which seemed to do the trick, no problems since. The radio fuse is in the fusebox under the bonnet on the right hand side of the engine bay - exact fuse is detailed in the manual. Hope this helps.

The auto lights quirk baffled me for a while too. I just accept now that that's the way it is! I think it's only those with the custom wiring which have the issue, people who have gone for bypass relays don't, so i'm therefore assuming it's something to do with the trailer control module. Still it doesn't anoy me too much!

I had the exact same issue with the socket cover hitting the bumper and was just about to start widening the hole when the solution hit me. Take the socket off the bracket and rotate through 180 degrees then re attach to the bracket. The cover will then flip down (rather than up) giving plenty of space to rotate the plug into position. With the caravan wiring I found a 2nd spade connector on the back of the fusebox, which I have used, rather than routing direct to the battery and trying to find a route through the firewall. It seems to be working fine, though I did have to replace the ring connector with a spade for obvious reasons.

I too have the westfalia towbar (the one with the big hand wheel on the side), what was annoying was that i spent the extra cos i thought it would fit in the spare wheel well! I have managed to get it to fit with the careful application of a Stanley Knife to cut away enough polystyrene to fit the hand wheel into.

I've got the Android rSAP app installed on my HTC desire Works perfectly with the Skoda bluetooth, it was a bit of a faff to get the phone "SOFF"'ed but i have to say it's worth it - in truth it only took about 30 mins to get it all installed and working.

Well I ordered mine (2.0CR L&K Estate) on 7th Feb, it was built week 15 (11th April) and arrived with the dealer today (13th May) and will be delivered to me next Friday. So just under 4 weeks from factory to dealer, depending on how early in the week it was built. Have to say i'm quite surprised how quickly it's arrived, given some of the horror stories I've heard!

Got some good news today from the supplying dealer. It now has an estimated build in week 15 (w/c 11th April), with delivery expected mid May Must say i'm quite surprised, but very happy given it was only ordered 3 weeks ago!

It's doing surprisingly well - hence why i'm looking at another one! The bodywork is all fine apart from 172,000 miles worth of stone chips and patch of rust the size of 20p piece on the boot. The interior is wearing well with only occasional rattle and everything still working. The only major components it's needed so far are: new front shocks at about 90k miles, a gearbox oil seal at 120k, a new catalytic converter at 160k and a new front wheel bearing at about 165k. I'm amazed that it is still on it's original exhaust (except the cat), original clutch (esp with the amount of towing i do) and has needed so little doing to it and it still gets 52 mpg. I am however coming to the conclusion my luck maybe running out, hence going for a new one before this one starts costing big money to keep it on the road!

I had notice a couple of others on here saying they'd got their 2.0 CR L&K models a lot earlier than advised. I hoping it's the case for mine, but i'll have to wait and see! Enjoy picking up your new one next week

I've finally been able to order myself a new Octavia to replace my ageing 2001 1.9 TDi (with only 172k miles on the clock) I've gone for the 2.0 CR L&K Estate in Rosso Brunello, with MDI, Bluetooth and a Spare Wheel. Lombard (it's a company car) have given me a delivery date of 15 June, but i'm not sure how acurate that is given the constant changes everyone else seems to be getting on their orders. It's my first ever brand new car, so the excitement levels are definatley peaking :clap: , so it's now just a case of trying not to hold my breath until it arrives..... I take it it's still the engines that are holding things up, or have they come up with any different reasons yet?

I'm about to order one with the 4 spoke multi-function steering wheel for radio and telephone including Bluetooth® and Maxi-dot as a manual. I think it's just the VRS where you can't have it without getting the DSG, on the Elegance you can order the 4 spoke multi function & BT with manual or the 3 spoke version with DSG. Well at least that's my understanding, If i'm wrong please someone shout before I order next week!

Topping up the gearbox oil is relatively easy Take the plug out of the front of the gearbox and fill using a squeezy bottle until it reaches the level of the filler hole. The difficult bit is getting to it with the car still being level - i.e jacking up and securing both ends of the car. You also need a very large hex key to take the plug out (not sure on the size, but i'm sure someone will know).

Hi Guys, I can put a vote of confidence in for the Towequipe's ones with the 'Anti Slip' section in the middle. I've been using one in my Octavia for years to lug around wet & salty dive gear, they are truly an excellent product. It's great to be able to just take the kit off straight into the boot, then tip out the water once i've taken the kit out at home without worrying about the carpet. I've never had any issue with the dive kit sliding around with it off the anti slip portion. Infact the anti slip bit can make it a bit of a pain getting the cylinders in and out as it almost works too well on the rubber cylinder boots. Where do you do your Diving Gizmo?

Thanks very much Tech1e, just the answer I was looking for. Looks like a fun Saturday ahead lying on the drive now!

Good evening all, The Front N/S wheel bearing on my Octy has finally started going, with some very ominous noises on corners (not bad for 175k miles though). Rather than going to the hassle of getting bearings pressed etc, I've source a complete hub & assembly from the scrappers - i'm planning to upgrade to a nice shiny new Octy in Feb, so I just want to keep it running for the 20+ weeks delivery time....... This arrived today and after getting out the box i've noticed that there sees to be a fair amount of play between the hub & the carrier in an "in/out" direction. So the question is: is this normal and the play is taken up by a properly torqued hub nut, or do i need to take it back as U/S? I'm obviously keen to avoid the hassle of replacing the hub twice.....! Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

I had exactly the same problem on mine. - they kept stopping in the park position randomly for a few hours then started working again. I replaced the wiper relay (the big brown one in the drivers footwell) about 6 months ago and haven't had any problems since

Hi all, I've just spent a frustrating day under the Octy giving it a service. First off i removed the undertray to be greated with a loud "clang" as the AirCon Clutch hit the concrete, lucily the splines were all still ok and i managed to find the nut so it got put pack on with some blue locktite gunk to keep it there. The major worry though is signs of an oil leak coming from the gearbox - looks like it's coming from the drivers side output shaft. Does anyone know how easy it is to change the oil seals with out removing it from the car, or do i just keep topping up the gearbox oil for the next couple of years.....? It's a 2001 1.9tdi (110 hp) Elegance with a manual box and is on about 155k, so not doing too badly. Cheers Yes_Dear

After reading various technical specs etc which said Helicoils had been designed for use on brakes i did fit one, and haven't had any problems with it since - i'd even say the pin feels like it's in stronger than before. The size you need is M9 (nine) x 1.25 (for the FS III brakes) It's not a common size, I ended up getting a Draper kit from somewhere online which came with the coils, an 'insert tool' and the correct size tap. In the end it took about 10mins to fit once the kit had arrived Hope this helps

Thanks for the replys everyone - you've set my mind at rest as i was worrying there might be something going wrong with the instrument cluster... I shall get the tools out & check behind the bumper at the weekend, here's hoping for a dodgy conection! Thanks again

Evening all, I was driving about at the weekend in the snow and all of a sudden the temperature display on the multifunction display in the dash started telling me it was 42 degrees below :confused: I know i live in Scotland, but really! VAG Com has spat out 3 errors: 00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent 00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17) 29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent 00667 - Ambient Temperature Signal 30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent So i'm thinking either the sensor is on the way out, or i've got a dodgy connection somewhere. I'm assuming it's the sensor behind the front bumper, but before I go digging around i do have one query... Whilst the temp was going nuts on the dash, the number on the climatronic aircon stayed correct - is this a different sensor, or is there something going wrong at the dashboard end :eek:?? Any suggestions most apreciated

Just the answer - Ta very muchley

Evening all, I'm doing a brake f& clutch fluid change at the weekend and just have one quick question... How much fresh fluid do I need to do a complete change? (110 TDi Estate)- Obviously i don't want to get 1 Litre and find it's not enough, similarly not to keen on buying 5 Litres and having to throw half of it out! Any answers gratefully recieved.