mattymoo

Yes mate all sorted. It was clear to see the cause when i fitted new ones too. The play in the old bearings was massive. Didn't cost too much, just a little time to sort. Replaced pretty much everything else except the steering rack too. Love the car but hated this fault so chuffed to bits it's sorted now!

I only knew it was that as I'd changed pretty much everything else! For the sake of 25 quid and a bit of sweat, well worth it. You'll only know how bad they really are when you inspect them on removal. If the bearings appear loose in the runners then i would suggest changing them. There should be no play at all and it should turn smoothly. I jacked the car up, chocked the rear tyre and axle stand as normal. Then removed the wheel. Fitted spring compressors and wound them up. Removed the upper tie bar nut and the lower shocker nut and bolt. Then carefully removed sensor plug (if fitted) and brake line clips and pushed to the side. Spray the lower shock with release agent or WD40 when it enters the wheel hub. Wait a short while for the release agent to soak in then try to manipulate the shock absorber out of the hub with whatever you can. I used a big f@#* off hammer but obviously take care where you strike. One side was a pain in the backside, the other came apart with no problem at all. Always the way! The key really is to use good spring compressors and make sure you have taken back all of the strain out of the springs. Persevere and take care not to damage the shock absorber itself and any other surrounding parts. After you have separated the wheel hub and the shock absorber, you need to release the upper mount from the strut turret. Pop the bonnet and removed the plastic cover if fitted, this just pulls off. Then you will use a gooseneck spanner to get into the top. 99% it was a 21mm, can't remember the allen socket size. If you don't have the correct angled gooseneck spanner, nothing else will fit, trust me. You'll see what I mean when you look and pliers just won't hold it! Unwind the nut whilst keeping the shock absorber piston in place using the allen socket/key. Once loose, secure the whole shock absorber assembly with one hand whilst you fully untwist the top nut with the other. If possible, place the full shock absorber in a workbench vice and pull off the rubber top mount, this may be well stuck on but will come off with a good pull. At this point make sure that the spring is compressed to the point where it is loose within its housing. Then remove the top retaining nut with the allen key and 21mm spanner, followed by the bearing. Observe and rejoice at finally finding the cause of the bloody annoying knock. Then in true Haynes manual styley, rebuild in reverse order. I want to appologise if people are reading this thinking 'what a dumb a@@, so obvious' but if it can help somebody else out there it would be useful i recon as I couldn't find any topic on this throughout the site. Oh and please don't blame me if your spring compressors are rubbish and you loose half of your face when you release the top bearing nut!

Hello all, thought it's about time I had a bit of input to the fantastic forum. Been using it for years and wanted to share the joy but on the same note not teaching people how to suck eggs! I've had an irritating noise and knocking feel through the steering wheel ever since ive owned the car. Only seems to occur over sharp smaller bumps but never the less is constantly there and bloody annoying. I have tried all the usual on here as suggested, drop links, bushes, front rad, arb but have finally cracked it. I urge everyone out there to CHECK YOUR FRONT SUSPENSION TOP MOUNT BEARING. Just changed them today and there was loads of play in the old ones. Got back after a test run and can confirm it is cured 100%. Including bearings and rubber mounts from GSF it cost 25 quid and worth every penny. Took about three hours due to sticking parts etc but well worth doing if u have time. If anyone needs part numbers then I'll find them and post it asap.

Hello, not sure if anyone would like a challenge? I've had my mk1 Octy VRS for a couple of years now and love it apart from two things. 1 an annoying clunk when you drive over sharp bumps. This is felt directly through the steering wheel and i have ruled everything out now apart from the steering rack and/or front shocks/springs. 2 the most annoying is the n/s front door. If the car has been locked via the key or when it auto locks when you pull off, to open the door it takes two handle pulls! It is the only door that does it. I've heard of the deadlock and needing to pull the lever twice but don't understand it. From outside getting in the car, one pull partly opens the door till it sort of bangs against its latch and then another releases it. From inside getting out, two firm pulls of the handle lets you out. This is bl@@dy annoying now and would love to fix it. Any help would be appreciated cheers all!

I've put a Snap-on Solus scanner on it just for a check over. Everything seemed ok. Removed the trottle body for a good clean and replaced the gasket. Replaced the coils last year after No.1 completely melted! Had a mega annoying slight clunk felt through the wheel only when going over slight but sharp bumps. Replaced all the usual possible suspension parts, pretty certain it's the dreaded steering rack! Other than that, I absolutely love it. Get my alloys back from refurb this week so they'll be back on soon. Spent 750 on a nice set of 18in RS4's only to have the woman take a fair chunk out of two within a month.

Thank you very much guys I shall check out your suggestions. The previous owner had it remapped to 200bhp but can't really tell much difference if you ask me. Wouldn't imagine this would make a massive amount of difference to mpg if all other sensors are working correctly anyway. That said, did used to own a mini cooper S that only did around 24mpg but that was a known fault with a large batch of cooper s's made apparently. I'm keen to try anything as I don't want to sell the car as it's perfect other than the poor mpg. Really appreciate feedback anyway, thanks.

Hi there, wondered if anybody would be kind enough to tell me the part number for the orginal recirc valve on a Octy VRS mk1 2002? Ever since we bought the car it has had a forge valve on it which I'm now convinced is not helping with a slight flat spot as the turbo spools up when you give it some. Pretty sure it's faulty. Also wondered if this could be anything to do with poor mpg??? Any help appreciated.

Great stuff, like it. What bulbs did you use? Would I be right in saying you took a feed from the interior light? I put a small strip on each of the rear c pillars so the Mrs could see easier in the winter months when putting the little'n in her seat. She wants them out as apparently Blackpool is a tacky look! Wish I thought of the footwell lights sooner!

Any ideas anyone??? I have finally got round to buying my new alloys - RS4 new style 8x18 with 225/40x18 nankang ns 2 tyres. I'm sure this will please hundreds of you as I have never had so many emails, texts etc since first mentioning that my standard spiders will be cleaned up and on sale soon.....(I will keep you posted when they are on ebay I PROMISE). The problem is the alloy sticks out slightly further than the tyre. There is no obvious rim protector on the tyre but the tyre side wall looks normal. There is a slight gap also inbetween the rim edge and the tyre. I'll try and get a pic up as it's a little hard to explain! Just wondered if anyone had come across this with the same wheel as I know they are getting more popular. My only obvious thought was that the wheel was a 8.5x18 instead of 8x18 but it isn't.

Had my ARB and bushes replaced. The plastic sleeve that the bush sits on the o/s was missing. The rusted bar had split the sleeve and the previous owner had packed the bush out with insulation tape! Nice. There was loads of play, poor handling and the obvious knocking caused by it. Just to confirm that it was no easy task. The sub frame needed to be dropped to remove/re-fit the bar. Anyone needing to do it ideally will need the car up on a lift. Not a job for the driveway! Tried looking all over this site regarding front arb replacement with no joy so I hope this helps in some way. Cheers all!

New style rs4's are quite hard to get hold of. Must be popular at the mo as everyone spoke to today are waiting for deliveries! Booooo.:thumbdwn: I'm too impatient me. Can't wait to get pics up when I get them.

I'm sure it's stated on here somewhere that if the profile of the tyre changes in relation to the rim size then lowering wont always be needed? I'll be going from 45 to 40 profile. I have a Vrs so i guess it's already lower than an elegance. That would look odd if not lowered.

Have you lowered your car NatesVrs? It looks great, thinking of these myself on a black octy vrs but don't want to lower the car. Cheers bud.

Apologies for the sale thread of my wheels. I wasn't aware and I'm now a fully registered member of 'Freedom'! Thank you.

Thanks for that, not had chance to check as yet. ************ Must say, the car runs smoother and can barely tell the difference in performance! Can barely hear the DV now too so the missus will be chuffed to bits. ****************