Col200sx

Great detailed post, thanks for that. I'll be doing this soon as I'm waiting on delivery of a wiper stalk. I never got the wiper motor replaced, the one above sold, and the others I enquired on I haven't gotten yet. I've since been advised, like I was above too, that to replace the wiper stalk and switch was the way to go.

Yep got same job last year, straight bolt on job, nothing else needed. Decent piece of kit too at a good price. FWIW I do remember being told to use specifically VAG gearbox oil (2 litres I think it was), but I don't know how important it was. I did anyway because it was only a little more expensive.

Thanks, just spotted a video for it on YouTube. Will disconnecting the battery ensure the airbag won't go off?

Can I ask, has anybody that has had similar issue, just replaced the wiper stalk and switch? Is it a straight bolt on job or anything more complicated than that?

Cheerss Daryl, that would help me a lot. PM on the way : )

Thanks for the detailed answer. I have no documentation that the dump valve has ever been replaced. The cars is now at 142k miles. Will I only know if the dump valve was the cause by replacing it with another one? Are there any tell-tale signs that it's the probem? (haven't taken off a dump valve before so not sure what to look for).

Cheers, haven't gone near the dump valve yet, will have a look and see what I can do.

If the self park is gone, does that mean new motor? Excuse my ignorance, but if the other functions of the motor work, would it not point to something else? (I'll have to see first if it's a motor I need before I buy one, but thanks for heads up on your Ebay link).

All other functions on the stalk work fine. As in different positions still put on wipers on intermittently, constant and also full speed. Just what was off is now fully on. I haven't been able to access the motor yet as it's p1ssing rain (no pun intended!).

Just last night with my wipers on intermittenly, they sat back in a higher than normal position while driving. Then after that, they would not stop at all. What previously was the off position, is now constant, so once key is ignition, they're on regardless of the position. I have searched the forum, but not found a solution. I've disconnected the fuse, replaced it, pulled out the 377 relay, cleaned contacts (which were very clean as is) and reconnected. The relay clicks as normal so I think the relay is fine. For the record, they never seized or had any difficulty before, and Ive heard mention of a rear motor causing issues, my 2002 vRS doesn't have a rear wiper. What do I do next?

A late update, but the MAF took nearly two weeks to arrive. So I changed out the old MAF for a new one, and guess what...... Still the same. So it shows that my original one was fine. On further inspection, I found the y-pipe (crankcase breather pipe?) on top and side of block had a major split in it. I patched this up with duct tape as a temp solution, but still the same. Having scanned it again, I'm still getting a: 17705 Pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve P1297 (check dv) I've picked up a fuel filter which will be fitted today, as I haven't found any documentation to show it's been done. Lets see what that does.

Well on the plus side, I got a genuine Bosch MAF ordered from mister-auto.ie for €125 delivered. Cheapest I could find. Due for delivery midway through next week, so will post up after fitting.

Cheers lanciadub : ) So I got round to cleaning out my MAF, replaced it and while I still got that initial cold first start, it did feel quicker and a crisper acceleration. I got a loan of a Vgate Scanner from a friend, what that did bring up was: 16486 P0102 MAF sensor G70 signal too low. Also looking at the MAF, it was a Bosch 0 280 218 063 (06A 906 461L). Is this the correct one from factory? Interestingly, while the revs didn't fluctuate before, once cleaned the MAF and unplugged there was a distinct change of revs, and my traction control light came on too. I can get one from Skoda here in Galway for €157 provided I give back my old MAF. Would this latest point towards a f.cuk.ed MAF?

It drives fine, pulls fine throughout all the revs.

I'm in Rep Of Ireland, I think there may still be a member near me. Michael1, he also has a mk1 vRS. Must check actually.

Cheers Tony, that video works now. Yeah I can just hear it change a bit when unplugged/plugged back in again. But your revs don't change like mine. My engine note does not alter at all. I've done this while cold and warmed up and the same. Lovely shiny engine bay Tony by the way : )

Tony that video is private, so we can't see it. When I plug mine out neither the engine note or revs change.

Thanks. I was told that the revs should change up and down quite a bit. So chances are my MAF is ok then? I haven't got any warning lights or any faults found on my OBDII scanner, just cold start hesitation.

As per my other thread dealing with my cold start issue. Having unplugged the MAF, shouldn't my revs change? Nothing happened when I do so, check the video and you'll see. Does it sound like my MAF is gone? (my handheld scanner hasn't shown up any current or pending faults)

Balls. I'll change it now. Thanks for the heads up. Ok should work now:

So having searched further and not being recommended to use brake/carb cleaner, I didn't bother cleaning it. But having started it up and disconnecting the plug, the revs haven't changed whatsoever. Tried it when cold and warmed up and the same. Does this look like my MAF is f.uck.ed? Here's a video I took:

Ok back again with a similar update. It's back to doing its cold hesitant start. So I'm going cleaning out the MAF now. Am I ok to use brake/carb cleaner? (I used this before on my AFM on my 200sx)

Ok today's update: It started fine from cold this morning, although still had the erratic idle for the first 45 seconds - 1 minute. I tested the battery again while running and got a reading of 13.9v. So I'm happy the battery and alternator (replaced about 30k ago) are both ok. I was going to clean out the throttle body, but have since read that you need vagcom to re-calibrate it. So the fact that it was done before, I'll leave it for now. But next up in couple of days is to clean the MAF. I cleaned one on my 200sx before with brake/carb cleaner, is this ok or do I need isopropyl alcohol cleaner specifically?

It took a couple of seconds to turn over, but with a bit of acceleration it fired up then. I'll keep an eye on the battery. I may change it. I had asked them to do a full diagnostics, they said they did and no errors. So maybe possible. The fuel pump does prime when I open the drivers door, you can clearly hear it. Also, I had a spare coolant temperature sensor, so I changed that there. It started up fine, and it hadn't been started in nearly 24 hours. I also noticed that it got up to temperature way quicker than in the past. I'll check again how it starts in the morning and report back again. Thanks for the suggestions : )

It had the timing belt and water pump replaced at a Skoda dealers a month ago. I asked him to give it a diagnostics check to see if there was any issues. He checked it and said it was fine, no faults found at all.