R-and-S

2014 Yeti Tour de France 140 diesel 10k miles - Took my car into my local dealer yesterday as the engine warning light had activated, the handbook said it was an exhaust gas checking system fault, when booking in the dealer advised there is a recall to replace a flap in the exhaust system which they'll carry out whilst they have the car. Following a diag test they advised the EGR needs replacing and they need the car for a further day to complete the work. Just had another call to advise they've run into problems (sheared bolt) and they need the car for another two days!

When I bought my Yeti last year the dealer told me they were selling well mainly two wheel drive models to people of a "certain" age and also through the Motability scheme, not sure if this was a positive selling point or not ;-)

Recently had a Westfalia bar fitted at Winchester Skoda at a cost of £718.00 all in including a loan car for a couple of days. Cheapest independent quoted £700.00 for the same bar but could have supplied a Witter slightly cheaper.

Job completed yesterday using a 10mm spline bit, the bolts were VERY tight and I'm sure I would have damaged the bolt heads without the correct bit. No comparison to the passenger side bolts which came out very easily.

Thanks for all the comments. I've already fitted the passenger side drawer after removing the front bolts and tilting the seat back by using a hex key (not ideal but it did the job) unfortunately the driver's side bolts are much tighter and the hex key can't cope. Did have a look at doing it without tilting the seat back but I ran out of swear words very quickly! :-)

Thanks for your help.

Sounds about right, similar to Torx but more splines.

Hi, I'm trying to remove the seat in my 2014 Yeti to fit an under seat storage box but I'm having trouble identifying the correct spline/torx tool to fit the seat rail fixing bolts, can anybody advise? Thanks Steve

When the garage topped the fluid up they should have checked to see where it was going. It's obviously leaking quite a lot for the level to have dropped again so quickly, you're in danger of loosing you brakes, I'd take it back and get them to check it out URGENTLY. Steve

Job done all four discs and pads changed. Although none of the pads were badly worn the rear discs were corroded on the inner faces, the fronts looked OK but were fitted with Ferrodo pads. I'm surprised how much better the brakes are now, Pagid are a significant improvement. Steve

I got mine from www.wiperblades.co.uk, it's worth a look to compare.

Hi, Thanks for all the advice/recommendations. I've decided to go the Pagid route, a set of four discs and pads for £117 seems to be a good deal. Steve

+1

I've not been 100% happy with the OE but then they coming to the end of their life, was thinking about EBCs as I've used them on bikes and been very happy, never used them on cars, what's been the problem?

12mm ply will be a lot stronger than the standard mdf, use the old one as a template to cut the new one to shape. Steve

Hi, As the title suggests it's time to replace the brake discs and pads on my 07 VRS and wondered if you guys have any recommendations. I'm not really interested in upgrading to larger discs etc but possibly to a better quality disc/pad combination, has anybody tried this and was it worth the extra cost? Steve

Wrong side of 50 driving an 07 VRS, full NCB, £203.00 fully comp with £50.00 excess

I suffered this problem last year and fitted the 9mm gasket, completed cured the problem (with no side effects) and makes the car much more enjoyable to drive, best £2.50 I ever spent! The part no for the gasket from my local Skoda dealer was: S028131547B. Hope this helps. Steve

I bought the 9mm gasket from my local dealer a few months ago, Part No. S028131547B, cost £2.50 inc VAT. Best £2.50 I've ever spent. Steve

The dealer I purchased my car from used the official Skoda "repair kit" to seal my doors, the repair only lasted a few weeks before the leaks started again. I pointed them in the direction of this forum and they carried out a repair using a moisture curing sealant, haven't had any problems since. Steve

07 Plate with only 34k miles

I'm pretty sure that removing the gasket completely would make the hesitation/stutter worse you'd be better off sticking with the original fitment.

Follow the link at the top of this topic for a full explanation!

Has anybody tried using a Scotchgard type treatment on their seats after cleaning them?

Mine's a Silver 07 plate registered 03 March 2007 Anyone keeping count??