Oli3000

That's a bit out of date - updated now. But I will consider the recommendation! My Fabia has just had its MMI replaced (under all-in warranty) after vertical lines appeared on the screen. The experience with Platinum Skoda in Bath has been absolutely awful (fault reported in September, replaced yesterday), particularly when I've had warranty work done by Heritage Skoda/SEAT in Bristol for the Leon which was dead easy (faulty LED headlight unit and a keyless-GO key fob that failed). They were just totally disinterested in Bath. So this is another reason why I want to be armed and ready as it seems likely I will have to buy from somewhere that isn't local based on what stock is around!

Amazing - you've just armed me with a quick list of things to look out for when viewing which is ideal! Thank you

Amazing! This is incredibly helpful! Thank you so much. I have (and love) ACC on the Leon. Could not by a motorway car without it. It has always intermittently done similar things to what you describe, although perhaps not as frequently. I am very used to a bit of throttle blip to get it to behave as I want! Some of the other bits do sound like they have been very painful though. Pleased to have a guide to follow; thanks!

Top advice! If they want my money (in a slowing car market) I expect them to play ball! I think it will also come with the caveat of if it doesn’t work I will be returning it so at least they’re primed…

Thank you! I had seen a few of your topics and the journey you have been through! Certainly sounds like it can all be sorted, but don’t really want to have to deal with recurrent issues if I can! I note that both approved used and the “all-in” warranty both don’t cover software/electrical system updates so will have to be prepared to argue my case if there was an issue. Equally I can always return it within the first 30 days if there are issues I suppose (or at least threaten to). Have the TPI documents been uploaded on the forum somewhere?

That's fair - the software versions are quite clear that I want it running 1941. Hardware versions I haven't seen detailed anywhere specifically although I've skimmed through most of the 46 pages on here; is there a repository for this?

Apologies for the hijack; is there a summary thread pinned anywhere with issues with the 20-21 models? I’m thinking of buying an SEL First Edition as they are very good value now, but would like to be well prepared at the dealers. I’ve updated software before on VAG cars so I can manage that if I have to, and I also have WiFi coverage on my drive so that’s not a big deal either. But I am concerned if there is any hardware that needs changing…

Brilliant - has fixed my issues! Thanks!

Hi @varooom, Please could you share the link with me also? Many thanks

Apologies - I just went back and double checked! It is definitely the INSIDE edge that is particularly worn on the OSF. OSF: And the NSF looks fine: Both are Goodyear efficientGrip.

Hi All, Please can you confirm or deny my thoughts: Faithful wife's skoda at 181k has just been MOT'd. They noted in the OSF tyre is near the legal limit on the outside edge (shamefully I had not noticed). They reckoned this was due to us running it under-inflated. I thought about this, and although we do not check often enough we are not that bad. Using my (likely inaccurate) foot pump both front tyres are at 30psi. Yes a bit under, but not dreadful. The NSF is perfect on the edge. So, instead I asked the garage if the new track rod end and anti-roll bar they fitted to the OSF last MOT would have been an issue. Should we have done the tracking then? They claimed categorically not. Is the garage right? I am inclined to replace the tyre and get my tracking checked. Having a quick look around the forum it could also be console bushes, these were last replaced at 90k. As an aside I fitted a new pair of front discs very shortly after the MOT last year (cheap) which appear to have warped due to shuddering on light braking and are shortly to be replaced. My wife is the sole driver around town; I was a bit surprised that they may have warped as she is definitely not a heavy braker. Before I buy the discs, am I looking at a bigger suspension issue here? The car presently has a retirement date of December 2021. Therefore in summary I am considering 3 things: 1. Replace the tyre, get the alignment checked and corrected. If alignment not out, consider investigating console bushes or other suspension components... 2. Replace the tyre, correct the alignment, replace the front discs and pads. Hope shudder and excessive wear go away. 3. Replace the tyre, ignore the alignment, ignore the discs. It has 18 months to live.

Grand. Off to the stealers/TPS tomorrow to try and get a replacement then! Thanks all

Got the bugger. Had to remove the airbox to get him out but sorted. Just drained the top part of the system. Am I right in thinking these systems are self bleeding. So replace the pipe, fill her up, and off we go?

Slightly different angle.

Hi all, This morning coolant light came on. Obvious leak on right hand side of engine - see picture. Anybody know what piping/part this is? Seems fairly straightforward likely to be a split hose. Thanks in advance.

Right. DONE. Attaching the wires was a PITA; however this was made harder by the fact I think I damaged the lock cable attachment, despite using your nail technique. So instead of ruining the lock too I left the ancillaries carrier attached to the door (as I couldn't remove the wiring loom) and did all the wire retrofit there. It was fiddly as hell, but eventually with some problem solving we got it to work. Needed 2 pairs of hands, and a third would have been useful. We broke the door lock indicator in the process of putting the carrier back on - the door lock was so brittle it just snapped the piece that it inserts into. Doesn't matter though, reassembled without a working indicator and window now working. Source of the problem - a shattered plastic window carrier!

Okay, haha. Maybe it'll be a nightmare then! I'll give it a go tomorrow if it doesn't work straight up I'll be ordering that £30 job as above! Thanks! Will give it a go!

Thanks! I have previously replaced my front door speakers and made custom mounts out of MDF (which are now mouldy obviously, like everything in these bloody Fabias), so that's not a problem at least as they were bolted on already!

Cheapest I could find was about £80... If it's only £30 I probably would have bitten. Any ideas where from?

I've just bought a "window regulator repair kit" off eBay and watched a YouTube video! Looks dead easy. Remove the carrier, flip it over, change wires around... Let's see how it works out!

Hi all, So today our steel regulator cable snapped! Cue window stuck in door. I dismantled the door card and removed the window seal, and prized the inner panel off enough that I can push the window up and take it in place. Question now is what parts do I need? The motor still works when operated just the cables that are knackered. Any help appreciated!

£35 and jobs a good'un - brakes have never been so good! The new version doesn't seem to need a jubilee clip at the crank end, fits snugly. The cylinder end was a bigger to get in - but a bit of grease and it popped straight in after knackering my thumb's first! Now think it brakes sharper than my 17 plate Leon! Cheers fellas!

Excellent. Will ring the stealers in the morning and try Bristol TPS, too. They were arses last time I tried to use them though 👎🏻

Looks like that's right! Looks like you're also right!

At which end?