waool1988

In progress ...

lol ... Education is essential

After you depress the breaks they need vacuum to travel away from the disks. When they don't have sufficient vacuum in the inlet manifold they don't. Just find that leak and hopefully everything would be good again. Don't drive the car a lot though. The engine is running lean which isn't good.

Good luck .. You have done the wright thing

Check on ebay

I think it is the switch too. Jack the car, take off the engine tray, take of the connector, and short the connector when the ignition is on ON. If the reverse lights work then you pointed out the problem but if they does not you need to dig deeper.

Ok ... How about letting the car re-calibrate itself? 1) Disconnect the battery for 20m 2) Connect the battery 3) Start up the car and leave it to idea for 10m without touching the steering wheel, the accelerator pedal, or the A/C - heater

I still think it is a vacuum leak ... Are you sue u installed the throttle body properly?

Is it running rough around ideal?

Yes, check these out. When I bought my car they were worn out completely and I replaced all of them. Don't worry about how long your post is because you did the right thing by giving as much info as possible and your welcome ... I hope you would sort it out soon

Ok!! .. I am trying to connect the dots here and I think you have a vacuum leak for two reasons: 1) The fault code is related to the MAF/MAP sensor which means either there is something wrong with it or its reading does not make any sense. 2) The ESP/TCS light is on because you don't have enough vacuum in the inlet manifold. I would advise you to look at all the vacuum hoses between the engine head and the throttle body/Inlet manifold. Moreover, check on the hose between the vapor fuel valve and the throttle body.

I changed it on my car several weeks ago. It seems you want to top off the Gearbox oil after changing it, isn't it? Don't! Change it completely. My car has 50K on the clock and the oil was in a horrific shape. Change it. Almost all the oil would drain from the switch opening; you won't be adding work on yourself. You need around 2L of 75w90 oil which is recommend to be synthetic. You got the filling/level plug right and you don't any sealants. I checked the old switch and it does not have any products on it except the old oil. Don't go crazy tightening the new switch though! It threads to the aluminum gearbox casing.

Unfortunately! :P ... Let me know what happens with you if it propagates

I would take a look at the oil pick up to start the elimination procedure.

I would like to ask first, how did you diagnose the car? Resetting the car would be a good idea. I would clean up the map sensor, the throttle body, and O2 sensor and look for vacuum leaks in the way. If it was not fixed, I would look at the fuel pump and fuel filter/regulator.

I have the same issue but I have not given it attention yet because it isn't obvious enough to know were the problems is .... mine is around 56K

OK! ... May I ask which type of oil your using? Just to let you know, I change the oil every 3-5K km because I don't use synthetic oil.

it sounds like the hydraulic lifters ... When is the last time you change oil?

Let me rephrase. Isn't it too loud?

Isn't it loud?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8TTVdeOQ6M

What you need to do now is painting the inner frame of the headlights black like these It would work very well because all the trim is in black.

You have to take it easy! If you look young and you don't have your driving licence you would end up in jail where I am living.

The timing chain is recommended to be changed everything 120K miles as it gets loss with age.

It seems you practice that a lot :p