kprida77

I've recently replaced ours. You need to undo the bolt that holds it in, then using trim removal tools (plastic lever) pull the bottom right hand side of the boot trim off. I only pulled out the right hand side as you can just get your hand round to remove the broken bit (if needed). I found I needed the trim off else the broken bit wouldn't come out and you can't get the new one in as the angle it goes in at and the boot structure. Push the trim back (careful to check clips are lined up with holes as you push it back). Then torx bolt back in.

Our 2018 has a knock from the LHS (nearside). I was hoping it was the drop links and replaced them (as cheap) myself but the knock is still there. I believe its the top mount. I found (after changing the drop links *sigh*), with ours you can only replicate it if someone is sat in the passenger seat when you push down on the front. Bonnet up, push on inner wing edge or the front hard to get it bouncing (I have to get a good bounce on it to knock). If you bounce it without someone in the passenger seat, no knock noise. The knock coming from the top of the strut. Might be worth trying to see if you can replicate it that way (careful when pushing hard you dont bend/dent anything!).

We've a 1.0 that drives fine, but between 3k and 3.5k rpm there is a metallic rattle. I tried revving on the drive, but couldn't hear it. I suspect a heat shield somewhere is resonating. Anyone else had this?

The handbrake button chrome edge on our 18 plate karoq is peeling up, creating a sharp edge. We've only had the car 4 months and it has less than 5000 miles on it. We need to get to the dealer for it to be looked at, but has anyone else had this issue?

Yep full Skoda service history, IIRC the oil filter has VW stamped on it.

We have a 2011 1.2 TSI Yeti which we have owned from new. It has the (what appears to be) infamous cold start rattle, which appears to be getting worse. Unfortunately the missus didn't mention it til out of warranty and now its getting more regular. I've also noticed the fuel consumption is down on what it used to give. I'm assuming it's a stretched timing chain and the noise is it rattling (for a second or so) until the tensioner has enough oil pressure to stop it. I'm going to contact the dealer about it but, have many people on here had Skoda pay out for the fault as goodwill? (Assuming its one of the faulty weak timing chains). I believe some people on here have had 100% payout. Thanks.

Given its just a camera and it points forward the same as the Volvo why would it need calibrating? Its not like the camera will be facing a different direction with a new screen. Surely the camera isn't powered all the time so unplugging it wouldn't make a difference. Having recalibration after every new screen just sounds wrong. If it does need doing every time vag have made a real hash of things, surely not.

Why do they need to recalibrate the camera? My Volvo has collision detection and has had 5 screens (windscreen company stuff ups and poor quality screens). One screen had a bad bracket so the system disabled itself but once fitted to a screen with the correct bracket, it was fine. Surely it should be the same for the Skoda system?

I had the electric seat in my old Yeti. Unfortunately I still couldn't get comfortable, which I put down more to the seat firmness having driven the missus Yeti again today.

Sounds like the se might give me trouble like the elegance did. Shame, I really fancy a yeti again too. So far a transit van has been the most comfortable to drive, not really suitable as a family wagon though!

A few years ago I had a Yeti 1.8 Elegance. I ended up getting rid of it after 6months because a) it drank the fuel and I couldn't get comfortable. I sometimes drive the missus Yeti (1.2 elegance) and I love it, just the seats are a tad too firm for me and my iffy back. Anyone here had an Elegance and and SE? Are the non-leather seats softer? I'm currently in a Volvo which has fantastic seats but I'm getting to the point I need something more pratical and the yeti more or less fits the bill.

Reading the specs the petrol mpg is allegedly 45.6mpg (combined) for the hatch. I wonder how realistic this is? If its remotely near this I'd be tempted to move from my diesel Volvo.

I had a 1.8, I was getting a calculated 27 to 29mpg and that was driving steady 70. Admitedly my route takes me on to dual carriage way on a cold engine but still disappointing. Whether something was wrong with it I've no idea as I changed it as the seats hurt my back. Performance was OK, the engine smooth and the 4x4 handy for pulling out in the wet. My missus has a 1.2 manual and that is a gem. It won't set the world on fire but its got a decent amount of go and makes a nice drive. Her route to work gets 45+ mpg. (A roads).

I believe this is one of the Olympic fleet BMW provided. They are dumping all the cars "cheap", hence such a good price. If you do a used search some dealers have there existing stock and some of the Olympic fleet, there being a reasonable price difference between the two.

I believe bt own plusnet :-)