Adz_VRS

Lol my bad luck has never left me for the past 10 years of ownership of this car bloomin annoying some times! Did you mention your from up Newcastle way?

Andy as coincidence would have it, i recently replaced my brake light switch with a ECP item (within the past 2 weeks) due to my cars running issues. Easy enough to do, just take your time and youll not damage a thing. My advice to you woukd be to buy it from a dealer! My new switch has already gone faulty and my brake lights (as of the past 24hrs) will intermittently engauge regardless of ignition. My work colleagues and neighbours find it amusing though. Ah the joys!!

Ah electrical gremlins, i can sypathise completely with you. Battling a few myself with my bardge lol. I think mines looking like a new ecu due to wiring damage - sad times. I hope you manage to quickly find the source of your drain matey.

Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you open the drivers door? You should hear a high pitched whine from the rear seats of the car. If not, it could potentially be the fuel pump relay 409 located under your steering wheel. You should also check your fuse panel for fuse 43 just incase ots blown. Probs best to find a local briski whos willing to help you out and you can try his/her relay to see if thats your starting issue. If it doesnt make a difference, then it could be your actual fuel pump. Could be the explaination for theottle hesitation? Good luck sourcing the issue.

Sorry i should have mentioned this. Under the battery tray are 3 earthing points that feed the wiring harness. While i was there i did indeed clean these up, taking their points of connection back to bare metal. Up at the ecu (under scuttle panel) are another 3 branched earths... all of which recieved the same treatment. However there was one of which concerned me. Directly under the battery resides a hefty gauge black earth. Said earth is ground to car but leaves main core open to elements and this had obviouse signs of corrosion. Due to its overall hefty size i deamed it must be ok as it feeds the starter motor and alternator (both of which are working ok). Should i have another look at this?

Hi guys im after your help. Maybe the community could shed some light on something im otherwise over looking. I bought my vrs was back in 2012. Its never ran right, with hesitation under boost (no misfires). Ive chased the solution to this ever since then. My car has the following mods: 1) N112, N249, SAI, EVAP deletes (these are not coded out via software, rather replaced with resisitors. 2) Long ram air intake with K&N filter 3) Forge turbo intake pipe 4) Forge 008 diverter valve 5) PCV deleted with oil catch can sysyem 6) Syvecs/Walbro fuel pump 7) 2.75" Turbo back exhaust system (decat) 8) BAM injectors 9) ECS 2.0ltr Red top coilpack conversion 10) N75J 11) Stage 1 remap The car has been running happily (albeit with slight hesitation on wot)I for the past couple of year before my current situation. So getting to the point - over the past month my car has been deteriorating. I noticed things like the wot hestitaion become worse and my car would occasionally not respond to the throttle for seconds at a time. Oddly my ecu would not through any codes other than that for the sai, and primary and secondary lambdas. Now this is where it get expensive. Biting the bullet i book the car in at a local vag specialist with rolling road to see whats happening while the car drives. We discovered that the car had a nasty misfire at roughly 4k everytime it ran wot. What was causing this? The garage wasnt sure so we did some logging. With misfires registered i bought some more second hand coilpacks, injectors and a fuel pump, fitting them but to no avail. So we decided to have another look and possibly write another software file. All seems ok on dyno; she opens and holds 1.5 bar boost until the 4k point when she misfires. Shes overfuelling (obviously due to injectors) but we cant fathom the issue. We tried remapping and changing the fuelling for the injectors but to no avail. We tried revo software, no joy and viezu software with no joy. Viezu suggested a hardware fault so to return software back to standard and resolve the issue. We did a pressure leak test and all is fine. Ive found that since the cars time on the dyno, it has become so much worse than before. The hesitation is horrendous and the car now sounds like a rally stage monster thanks to its humongous misfires. Im no further forward after this and im left with a car thats not running propperly. So what have i done now. Well since the dyno ive changed the following: Maf sensor N75 valve Oil and filter change Spark plugs (denso gapped to 0.7mm) Pulled and checked boost pipes and intercooler. Drained oil from intercooler. Cleaned all associated engine management sensors. Cleaned out oil catch tank system, cleaning out all breather pipes. Replaced injector O ring seals. Replaced brake light switch. Double/tripple checked everything ive recently done. Reset the throttle body via vag com. Brand new Bosch primary lambda sensor. Vagcom showed bank one sensor one lambda issue. Heating circuit open; same with secondary but not much of a concern. This is where things get interesting as adter fitting the new lambda, we used vagcom to delete codes however they stay! I cannot get rid of the primary lambda fault. So i had no choice but to check all wiring. I managed to find an ecu pin layout and wiring diagram and set upon the mamoth task of testing continuity throughout. So from the sensor, through the harness, branching off to the fuse box and relay 409 and to the ecu itself. I found i had full continuity all the way through!. Which led me to exchange the lambda for another under warranty. This has since been replaced but it hasnt solved the issue. What do you guys think??? Ecu fried? Fuse 43 is in one piece, my car primes the fuel pump and always starts first time - does that mean the relay is fine too? Funny thing is, my car hasnt been using the primary lambda for the past few year. I know this as to my dismay, i found the primary lambda wiring hangging on the ground. After a quick investigation i found the numpty who fitted my new steering rack (some 2 year ago) had jammed the wiring between the underbody and front subframe, totally destroying the lambda side loom. While i was on the case of wiring, i also found my coilpack loom was destroyed. The external sheething was crumbling away and an alarming amount of copper was on show. So PSi tuning helpped me out big style by having a replacement loom in stock ( you can only buy wires and pins from the dealers now). So another mamoth wiring session later saw a new coilpack loom fitted all the way to the ECU connector including all pins. If anything this has resulted in an amplified issue with the car! It obviously needed doing but my god i cant get this car running for love nor money. So my latest upgrade ( as of 2 hours ago) was to fit an ECS 2.0ltr coilpack conversion kit. Just incase my second hand items were rubbish. These havent helped in the slightest. What am i doing wrong? Anyone know whats the next port of call? Im sorry i dont have a laptop and VAGCOM to use at home. Thanks if youve managed to read this far. Any help is greatly appreciated Adam

Ta very much. If its any good to you dpd used to offer a pallet consignment for £50? Might be worth over sizing instead of worrying about weight. Would use this option to send engines etc..... could be commercial though :/

Dont let it die!!!!!!! Youve had this for the same length of time ive had mine. Im not willing to let mine die uey either even though shes been written off and put back on the road via the aid of a sledge hammer Update(s) dude

Well sir if you fancy considering postage give me a holla regards intercooler

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/Engine.htm There you go, have a good read up. Will help you understand your car and how the turbo system should be routed.

Hi mate. Probs best you remove the engine cover and take some more detailed pictures. I carried out the vacuum simplification on my car some years ago now. So cant quite remember the orientation of all piping however Rob Cully (correct me if im wrong) posted a brilliant diagram for all the vacuum routing. Ill try finding it and copy you in.

Thanks matey

Tbh ill just be plugging them in mate and leaving them in situ. Gonna see if they will happily run without the use of resisitors. Ill just cap off their inlets and outlets. No need for reservior thanks. If you want to pm me your paypal addy ill get you sorted mate Cheers

As far as im aware the wiring cant be repaired easly as it will increase the impedance and alter the signal to ecu. I believe the only option would be to silver solder? Something i dont know anything about lol. So then, ill take the fuel rail, injectors, fuel pump with housing, fpr and coil packs. Ill not bother with lambda as my car is decatted anyway and tbh ill be bunging it soon anyway. Do you have the N112 and N249 valves? Im fed up of replacing resistors lol Cheers

Omg who plumbed that together. That set up is hiddeous! I would first start from the left. The red pipe thats set left of your throttle body typically runs to your charcoal canister. Remove the tee piece that the dump valve is running from (aka yellow line) and the clear line (boost gauge). As this line is reading vacuum before throttle body. Replace or use a straight connector for your charcoal canister. Typically you should alway source an "absolute pressure" source from the inlet mani. This could be the reason your boost gauge is erratic (along with the huge noob boost leak you have). Locate the vacuum piping under the inlet mani at front of car. Remove black plastic panel surrounding dip stick. Here youll find the N249 and other associated vacuum valving. Tee into a 4mm vac pipe directly plumbed into manifold. I.e not after a valve but before it. This will give you absolute pressure and instant response from dump valve and boost gauge. The upper hose located into the "stabbed split" could be from the wastegate??? Have a check of the N75 valve located in the turbo intake pipe. Its the 3 pronged valve residing by the hockey puck looling valve. All 3 prongs should have a line attached. 1 to boost source, 1 to wastegate actuator and the last to the tubo intake pipe. You need to replace the hose runnong from your dv to the turbo intake pipe asap. That is just the best piece of diy on a turbo'd car ive seen in ages hahah. If you cant source a replacement, temporarily remove pipe from dv and bung the hole on the tip. This will make car run better until you have sourced your new recirc pipe. I hope this helps I think we're all curious as to what that "new" stabbed pipe leads too lol

Oh and arbs sound interesting too. Feel free to pm me regards those if/when they become available

You know what it is, im stupid, i was meant to say MAP sensor not MAF. Its got brand new N75j, Bosch MAF and had a brand new NGK secondary lambda but the numpty who fitted my steering rack left the wiring hangging down and by the time i noticed the damage was done, loom in pieces :( sad times. I have already fitted BAM injectors and fpr from a 1.8t cupra r with low mileage (40k before we upgraded to jolly greens and a perfomance inlet) but seals seem to be leaking. Cant work out if its the seats in the inlet mani (no pnvious cracks) or the lower o ring seals that have gone on injectors . This car really does my head in but ive owned her for 8 years so not willing to give up on her yet

And MAF sensor lol

Sounds like a plan to me fella if your happy to let them go that is. One last question though. I noted you said your breaking the car, you dont have poly bushed front arms do you or any tasty suspension? Im gradually trying to get the old girl up to scratch. Shes going through the usual old car phase of fix one thing, and another thing breaks lol. Ohohoh, you got a boost gauge and/or secondary lambda available? Sorry for questions

Cool and if we include your coil packs?

Hi mate how much can you do the fuel pump and housing, fuel rail, injectors and fpr posted? You dont have uprated coil packs do you? (Worth asking lol). My location is Newcastle upon tyne. Cheers

Car has now sold. Thanks for veiwing. Mods please remove add.

SKODA Fabia VRS £1800ono (open to offers) Very well cared for and looked after. Cleaned, clayed, waxed and polished regularly, this car has been my pride and joy for a the past 18 months. It has some choice upgrades in the form of the following: CHASSIS: * Spax RSX adjustable coilover suspension (dampening and height) * Skoda Octavia VRS front brake upgrade so calipers and 312mm discs * Powerflex poly bushed front lower arms and dog bone mount. * 17" Skoda Octavia Spider alloy wheels wrapped in 4month old Toyo Proxes T1R tyres ENGINE: * Darkside Developments thermostatically controlled 15 row oil cooler * Darkside Developments EGR/Anti shudder valve delete with silicone pipe * Stage 1 remap ACCESSORIES: * Custom LED 8000k Canbus smart HID headlight bulbs * LED rear number plate lights * LED interior bulbs * New Skoda Badges front and rear * Reverse Parking Sensors * Cupra R front lip * Front grill vinyl wrapped gloss black MECHANICAL HISTORY: When i originally purchased the car it had previously been owned by a Skoda technician (Silbury Skoda, northumberland). I have various invoices for general maintainance and servicavle items (check photos). Engine has recently been replaced with a low mileage item. I have reciept for this work. It was carried out by a reputable VAG specialist (VX Autosport, Aycombe). The replacement engine was purchased with just over 82,000 miles on the clock. As such a big job was underway i also had fitted a brand new clutch, flywheel, timing belt kit etc.... this is noted on my reciept. Its also worth noting that along with the motor the KKK Skoda turbo was also replaced with a Garrett VW item (came with engine so should has covered the same mileage). The reason for the replacement engine was because the original suffered headgasket failure and subsequent cam/injector failure after a head gasket repair gone wrong - garage incorrectly fitted a belt tensioner, crushing it and causing the timing to jump. When the replacement engine was fitted the car was also due an MOT. The mileage was recorded at 135,408 on MOT cert. Current mileage is 141,000 (will rise) so this adds approx 5,000 miles to the new engine making it now approx 87,000. I also have a replacement head with injectors and a Sachs clutch and flywheel ( all second hand - the Sachs clutch kit was originally fitted to the vehicle when the mileage was 113,673, meaning it had only covered 23-25k tops). All these items can be included in the sale for the right price. Obviously when undergoing the swap the car had a fully service. I have recently replaced the upper boost pipes on the car. So the main black plastic hard pipe that runs next to the coolant tank and the VAG silicone coupler with those annoying alloy tabs that connects to the top of the intercooler. CONDITION: As with any older cars this car isnt perfect unfortunately. Albeit i try my best to keep the car in great condition, it does have some age related marks in the form of stone chips, the odd scrap/scuff and a little scabbing. All very maintainable and to be honest probably minor to most people. The interior could do with a wet deep clean as family life has left the cloth cream seats a tad dirty. She kicks out some oily smoke on a cold start. I believe this to be acceptable as it will instantly burn off. You can boost the car (when warm as i treat her nice) with no smoke issues. It could be the start of a seal going on the turbo but she drives well with no issues so ive never considered swapping out parts etc...... im fully aware of many PD motors doing this and living on just fine. She is my daily driver and it hasnt bothered me. There is an issue with the traction control light. After 5 to 10 minutes of driving it will light up on the dash. If you turn the motor off and on again itll turn off immediately. Ive had the car checked over multiple times but no code reader or VAG com can pull information on it. This is due to the fact that the ECU is not logging the fault. Ive been an active member on this site (Briskoda.net) for a very long time and the general concensus on the owners forum is that theres a ground/wire fault that is a very common issue and easily fixed (i have not done this as you have to have access to the underside of the car and i am not able to do so easily where i live). The fact that it will illuminate then go off with the turn of the key would suggest to me this common issue????? So to summerise, the car is enthusiast owned, well cared for, future proofed regards maintainence (timing belt, clutch, flywheel serviced etc....). Its wearing new shoes so tyres are not a worry, its MOTd until June and simply waiting for a new owner. I do have another family car now in the form of an MPV (admitting middle age lol) so i am hoping for a quick sale. Offers in the region of £1800 but i will listen to offers. A deal can be worked out if you also wish to purchase the spare cylinder head, injectors and Sachs clutch kit. Feel free to contact me on 07717 833170 (Adam) Viewing welcome.

It was on a whim. Ive have a spare rocker cover, inlet mani complete with fuel rail, injectors and fuel pressure reg from a BAM engine lying around for years! I spent 10 years in the tuning industry and managed to pick these up from an old customer who have a big engine upgrade carried out. Hos car had only covered 42000 miles so i know these parts would be good to go (at the time i was going to carry out the welly cooler upgrade but one thing led to another with this and that never happened). So i swapped it all over. The car actually ran pretty well on BAM injectors too while my others were away getting cleaned. Because the fuel pressure fluctuates, the ecu will not record this issue and log it as fuel starvation. Itll no doubt be logged as an O2 sensor fault or misfire as the ecu will cut timing to save motor. The only way to check this would be live time recording so a Air Fuel ratio guage, an actual pressue guage fitted to the fuel rail and ran into the car or to log Vag com as you drive. I was lucky enough to just have this part lying around and i thought it cant do any damage as it was a like for like item (3bar fuel pressure reg) that had covered roughly a third of the mileage mine had. Im going to invest in a fuel pump soon as i havee a noticable hick up under heavy load situations; its defos not a misfire. The old girls getting on now so im happy to replace parts when i can as a matter of course anyway. Sorry i cant be any more technical in sourcing the issue....

Oh forgot to mention that i did all maintainance as and when i could afford it. The ultrasonically cleaned injectors didnt really give a noticable diffence in mpg, smoothness or performance however replacing my fuel pressure regulator resulted in my car performing alot better overall. It cured cold morning stutters and actually saw my car into the low 30mpgs on avaerage. As your probs aware, the car isnt worth a great deal pf money hence i do everything i can myself. I cant justify big garage bills so this forum has helped me massively over the years with simple mods and simplifications. But buy the sounds of things it looks like the only thing you havent touched so far regards your issue is the fueling system....