Hyeung

Ach rear boot button seems to given up now after sometime…. It is safe to say that if I can still open the boot via the remote key fob then the issue is the micro switch button (and not any wiring)?

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I went out and gave things a try this lunchtime......to my surprise everything worked as normal!? Whilst last night it didnt even budge (no latching noise nothing)? The external handle/switch worked without issue, as you could hear the latch trigger. I also tried the keyfob and that worked also. I managed to use the keyfob alone to open the boot without touching the external handle/switch. Required me to press/hold the fob once to unlock the boot, then a further press/hold whilst opening the boot. I wonder if its just a sign that the handle/switch is on its way? I do wonder if the issue may have been related to the rain and moisture has worked it way in causing a temp issue? Random guesses here? Just have to monitor things.

Thanks, will take a look. If switch the dead, i assume using the fob would still work as a temp option ?

Hi, When our car is unlocked, we appear to have an issue such that we can't open the boot lid via the external boot release switch just above the number plate? When pressing this switch, i can't seem to hear the usual actuator noise? So eventually gave up this evening... Is there a way of manually opening the boot lid? can someone advise? I also realised later on that there might be another option to open via the keyfob? So assume this option might work and worth a try in the morning? I assume this might be a common issue, any ideas if this sounds like a faulty boot release switch? or possibly wiring etc? thx

Should had said, i've been looking at getting these from Costco. They offer the best prices on Michelins that many others can't match. However, issues with stock..

Quick question on stock tyres for Yeti TDI2.0 Elegance 4x4. I understand the default factory size is 225/50 R17 94W. I'm trying to get a set of All Season tyres - Michelin Cross Climates2 per the factory size, but struggling to get stock. However have been advise that stock is available for the same type but in 225/50 R17 98V. I assume the rating must be 94W or higher. Although its a higher load rating 98 vs 94. But its lower speed rating which causes issue? I assume the type of tyre (All Season) does not have any bearing on what the ratings can be. I assume technically on paper the 98V is a no, especially from a insurance point of view? Can someone advise?

Thanks bro. Yeah took it in the local shop and they just advised a CV boot replacement, and like you said about 1hr labour to do. So about £80-100 or there abouts.. Is now in the shop getting done. Thanks for your advice. Hung

I was just abit concerned as its been like this for a month or 2 now. I assume you mean knocking noise when the wheel turns? For which I have not notice any such noise. Yeah likewise i've also seen the CV joint with boot kit for around £30 as well, in which case my thinking is that it may be best to just change cv joint and boot at the same time? I believe worst case the half axel is about £100 which i doubt i'll need. I assume that the labour involved would be effectively the same for cv boot replacement vs cv joint+boot replacement? Is that correct? How much can I expect labour to be for a local garage to do this? i.e. would 1hr cover it so possibly £100 in total including labour+cv joint+boot replacement

Hi, Just posting on advice for a Skoda Yeti 4x4 DSG Auto - Noticed some thick black grease on the front passenger alloy, initially cleaned it off and never thought much of it (thought we'd picked something up on the roads). After a month or so, noticed the same and eventually i traced it back to a leak on what appears to be the outer cv boot. Not noticed any symptoms as such, but concerned on how long its been leaking now. Any general advice and what the recommended fix is for this; and expected costs via a local independent? i.e. replacing the cv joint and cv boot, or the half cv axel etc.

Apologies, I missed this link when I posted earlier. But have seen this now....H7s basically. Thanks!

Yeah exactly, I couldn't figure it out from the diagram....there is no obvious location for the 2nd part 9. If the two part 9's are the same location i.e. get a standard H7 or a long life version of H7. Then perhaps there is only a single bi-xenon (D1S) that does both low and high. Like you say, will find out when i check out in the dark again. I assume you've don't have the same Yeti but Octavia version with Bi-Xenons? Thanks bro.

Yup will do that soon and report back! Yeah I was thinking the same, why can't they transfer the existing bulbs out? As I know for a fact that the bi-xenon bulb is working (i.e. dipped lights). Sorry for me being stupid, but doesn't a full unit replacement unit (part - 5L2941018C) come fully equipped with all the required bulbs? Obviously there are multiple bulbs in the unit (side light bulb, fog light, turn signal bulb, bi-xenon and halogen for the full beam). They've not been any quotes for these other bulbs but on the bi-xenon which already works? Looking at the diagram - Skoda Halogen Twin Headlights With<Br>Gas Discharge Bulb 5L2941018C - LLLParts I count x6 bulbs in total part 5 - Gas discharge lamp D1S-12V35W => This is the bi-xenon light used for both dip lights and high beam lights part 6 - blue, glass bulb 12V/W5W => Assume this is side light bulbs? part 7 - bulb carrier with bulb P13W => Assume these are the daytime running lights (situated on the round fog lamp section)? part 8 - bulb carrier with bulb for turn signal bulb P13W => turn signal light part 9 - halogen bulb Halogen fog lamp H7-12V-55W => fog lamp light part 9 - Halogen bulb long life H7-12V-55W => Is this the other light we are referring to that's used for high beam light only?

I'll have another look to see if i can get some view on the dipped and high beam on the driver side. Just to know what's going inside this driver side unit. I total understand where you coming from, and really appreciate your input. As mentioned in my post, i'm not a diy type of person, don't have a multi-meter nor the knowledge or confidence to poke around on the wiring; never mind the though of taking things apart etc. I could only see myself taking this to another non-dealer garage at best to get another opinion or quote on the fix? I know dealers will always take the approach of replacing the entire units/parts without wasting time to consider a possible repair to the underlying part/unit. The problem is, even if i do take this to another garage (non-dealer) would the result not likely be the same in terms of a requested replacement unit? As I'm not sure if another garage will even consider taking the approach of repairing or investigating a broken wire (if that what it showed).....

That's exactly what I did btw. It was during daylight so perhaps it wasn't the easiest way to tell, might need to do this when its darker? At the time all i could see when crouching down was a beam of light....couldnt say for sure dipped or high beam. However, when in the car and flipping between full beam and dipped....i could tell that the left was working and right was not.

So as mentioned in my initial post - for driver side - side lights work fine, the dipped lights work fine, but when you operate the full beam i'm only getting the dipped lights on. Does that answer you question? I think you've stated that the unit contains x2 bulbs - Halogen for full beam; and Bi-Xeons for both full beam and dip lights - correct? Based on my observations, I am under the impression that the Bi-Xenons (D1S ?) are working fine as i'm getting the light through when dipped lights are on. However, i can't be sure if there is an issue with the Halogen bulb (don't know if its possible to tell visually?) At first i didnt even know there was x2 bulbs. Or possibly the Halogen bulb is operating fine but its the mechanism within the unit thats not opening things (shutter?). Curious if the Bi-xenons are D1S. what is the equivalent bulb type codes for the Halogens in that unit?