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Hyeung

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    Glasgow

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    Nissan 350Z; Skoda Yeti CR140 Elegance 4x4 DSG

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  1. Hyeung

    cv leak

    Thanks bro. Yeah took it in the local shop and they just advised a CV boot replacement, and like you said about 1hr labour to do. So about £80-100 or there abouts.. Is now in the shop getting done. Thanks for your advice. Hung
  2. Hyeung

    cv leak

    I was just abit concerned as its been like this for a month or 2 now. I assume you mean knocking noise when the wheel turns? For which I have not notice any such noise. Yeah likewise i've also seen the CV joint with boot kit for around £30 as well, in which case my thinking is that it may be best to just change cv joint and boot at the same time? I believe worst case the half axel is about £100 which i doubt i'll need. I assume that the labour involved would be effectively the same for cv boot replacement vs cv joint+boot replacement? Is that correct? How much can I expect labour to be for a local garage to do this? i.e. would 1hr cover it so possibly £100 in total including labour+cv joint+boot replacement
  3. Hyeung

    cv leak

    Hi, Just posting on advice for a Skoda Yeti 4x4 DSG Auto - Noticed some thick black grease on the front passenger alloy, initially cleaned it off and never thought much of it (thought we'd picked something up on the roads). After a month or so, noticed the same and eventually i traced it back to a leak on what appears to be the outer cv boot. Not noticed any symptoms as such, but concerned on how long its been leaking now. Any general advice and what the recommended fix is for this; and expected costs via a local independent? i.e. replacing the cv joint and cv boot, or the half cv axel etc.
  4. Apologies, I missed this link when I posted earlier. But have seen this now....H7s basically. Thanks!
  5. Yeah exactly, I couldn't figure it out from the diagram....there is no obvious location for the 2nd part 9. If the two part 9's are the same location i.e. get a standard H7 or a long life version of H7. Then perhaps there is only a single bi-xenon (D1S) that does both low and high. Like you say, will find out when i check out in the dark again. I assume you've don't have the same Yeti but Octavia version with Bi-Xenons? Thanks bro.
  6. Yup will do that soon and report back! Yeah I was thinking the same, why can't they transfer the existing bulbs out? As I know for a fact that the bi-xenon bulb is working (i.e. dipped lights). Sorry for me being stupid, but doesn't a full unit replacement unit (part - 5L2941018C) come fully equipped with all the required bulbs? Obviously there are multiple bulbs in the unit (side light bulb, fog light, turn signal bulb, bi-xenon and halogen for the full beam). They've not been any quotes for these other bulbs but on the bi-xenon which already works? Looking at the diagram - Skoda Halogen Twin Headlights With<Br>Gas Discharge Bulb 5L2941018C - LLLParts I count x6 bulbs in total part 5 - Gas discharge lamp D1S-12V35W => This is the bi-xenon light used for both dip lights and high beam lights part 6 - blue, glass bulb 12V/W5W => Assume this is side light bulbs? part 7 - bulb carrier with bulb P13W => Assume these are the daytime running lights (situated on the round fog lamp section)? part 8 - bulb carrier with bulb for turn signal bulb P13W => turn signal light part 9 - halogen bulb Halogen fog lamp H7-12V-55W => fog lamp light part 9 - Halogen bulb long life H7-12V-55W => Is this the other light we are referring to that's used for high beam light only?
  7. I'll have another look to see if i can get some view on the dipped and high beam on the driver side. Just to know what's going inside this driver side unit. I total understand where you coming from, and really appreciate your input. As mentioned in my post, i'm not a diy type of person, don't have a multi-meter nor the knowledge or confidence to poke around on the wiring; never mind the though of taking things apart etc. I could only see myself taking this to another non-dealer garage at best to get another opinion or quote on the fix? I know dealers will always take the approach of replacing the entire units/parts without wasting time to consider a possible repair to the underlying part/unit. The problem is, even if i do take this to another garage (non-dealer) would the result not likely be the same in terms of a requested replacement unit? As I'm not sure if another garage will even consider taking the approach of repairing or investigating a broken wire (if that what it showed).....
  8. That's exactly what I did btw. It was during daylight so perhaps it wasn't the easiest way to tell, might need to do this when its darker? At the time all i could see when crouching down was a beam of light....couldnt say for sure dipped or high beam. However, when in the car and flipping between full beam and dipped....i could tell that the left was working and right was not.
  9. So as mentioned in my initial post - for driver side - side lights work fine, the dipped lights work fine, but when you operate the full beam i'm only getting the dipped lights on. Does that answer you question? I think you've stated that the unit contains x2 bulbs - Halogen for full beam; and Bi-Xeons for both full beam and dip lights - correct? Based on my observations, I am under the impression that the Bi-Xenons (D1S ?) are working fine as i'm getting the light through when dipped lights are on. However, i can't be sure if there is an issue with the Halogen bulb (don't know if its possible to tell visually?) At first i didnt even know there was x2 bulbs. Or possibly the Halogen bulb is operating fine but its the mechanism within the unit thats not opening things (shutter?). Curious if the Bi-xenons are D1S. what is the equivalent bulb type codes for the Halogens in that unit?
  10. To summaries....the unit has x2 types of bulbs (Halogen and Bi-Xenon i.e. D1S) ? The fact that my dipped lights work fine on both sides, mean that both Bi-Xenon's bulbs are OK? As my driver side full beam is not working, does that mean it could potentially just be the Halogen bulb on the driver side unit? I assume that dealer would have done a diagnostic check to confirm that its the unit and not the halogen bulb surely? But as Urrel mentions, not sure why they would have quoted a Bi-Xenon bulb (N10566102)?? Does anyone know if the unit is serviceable anyways? I assume if its totally sealed? As other independent would probably take the same approach if the unit is entirely sealed i.e. non serviceable.
  11. I don't think the issue is around labour, as its only about 1hr work. I'm on the mind that some places just take the replace the entire unit approach, even when there might be a common fix by replacing only the specific part (if possible). Hence just wanted to explore this on the forum. When you mention pattern parts, assume you're talking about oem alternatives? Again, would be nice if someone had had experience on this issue and has done this exactly. Would welcome some feedback on costs etc. and what was involved. If I check out A for Audi....do i take the approach of telling them another dealership identified a fault on our full beam light (and they proposed full headlamp unit replacement). And simply ask them what it would cost them to fix? They might want me to bring the car in for further review (which i'll end up getting charged for a looking into it?)
  12. Hi, We have an old 2012 Skoda Yeti 4x4 Elegance 2Tdi. Just had its 90k service, and unfortunately the garage (dealership) has picked up an issue with our driver side full beam. We have the xenon headlights, and it appears that the driver side full beam does not work. However, what came more of a shock was that they've advised on their report is a complete headlamp unit replacement with a cost of £915.97!! Looking at the breakdown is appears to be more the cost of the parts than anything else: 1.2hrs labour to replace with parts: 5L2941018C part - £442.61+vat (think this is the headlamp unit) N10566102 part - £206.70+vat (i assume this is the bulb?) As it stands, the side lights work, the dip beam looks fine. Only issue is when the full beams are on, it appears only to be the left that goes on. Not something we've noticed as very rarely use it. And there is no errors shown on the dash to suggest that a fault exists. Fortunately we have some time to and not got our MOT till October. Does this genuinely indicate a complete unit failure? and not an isolated bulb issue for instance (please excuse me, as i'm not exactly technical on these areas) Just on here to see if anyone has had this issue and can provide any advice on their resolution? Obviously the route provided is based on dealership - replacing full oem parts on everything as it seems. Just wondered if there could be a cheaper alternative to purse via an independent for instance? Or is it the case that its not going to make a difference and hence the only real viable option is to replace those oem parts at full cost to really resolve the matter? The parts i've been told are not even in stock, and have to be a factory order of some kind.... Btw, I'm not a motoring diyer so unlikely will take the approach of fixing this myself (taking things apart etc). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
  13. Hi, I'm not sure if we have the same issue. As I was told the control module that we had replaced was located within the glovebox and not the rear seats. You are right in that the service was rather poor from Skoda. Still have the car, and so far all is fine. There are some app issues I've had since then, but is pending with Skoda rather than the dealership. We also noted that the tyre pressure label is incorrect on the car, and had that confirmed with Skoda direct, awaiting to get the label replaced but no response.
  14. Hi, Had our IV60 for 4 weeks now, and i recall initially (1st week) the departure planner feature on the app worked when accessing it. The 2nd week when i access the departure planner (via app iOS) i always get an instant popup message error? Anyone have the same problems or had a resolution?
  15. I guess a reasonable outcome, could have been better but these days i think that's considered decent.
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