Budykiller

Hello, One of the most feature I miss is the automatic rain closing windows. The panoramic roof makes the car really hot in summer so i'm used to let the windows a little bit opened to let some air refresh the cabine. But the weather is more and more unstable each year and it's very often that 1h after a perfect blue sky, we ended up with rain. Without the automatic rain closing, i'm always nervous when I let my car with windows opened. Despite the missing feature in the Skoda Rapid options, it seems that if there's a rain sensor, then it could be activated with VCDS. I read on dedicated forums that Golf 7 owners can do this mod only if the rain sensor is a compatible one (RLFS or something). See here : https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f197/vcds-vag-com-codes-programmable-options-golf-mk7-84619-23.html#post1084337 Does anyone already tried this mod on their rapid ? I don't have VCDS and i'm not sure about paying for it if the mod is not possible. Thanks

Hi all, Finally Skoda paid everything under warranty. The car is now much smoother at low torque and seems more responsive, as well as the brakes. It's still not on par with my old Octy 2 brakes or some other cars I tried but I will get used to it Thanks for the support

Some news ! A few days after my post, while I was opening the filter airbox to check if it needs to be replaced, I discovered a cable that what unclipped just under the airbox. When I tried to start the engine again, the car couldn't stay at idle. It was accelerating then stopping (between 1000rpm to 2000rpm). A search on Internet shown that this cable was linking the Vacuum Pump to the the intake manifold. The hose was destroyed and it has been glued instead of fixing the whole system. As the hose is broken, the Intake Manifold as to be entirely replaced. Maybe during the filter airbox removal, a small vibration detached the glue. This cable is used for braking assist. Also, it is used for the motor to work flawlessly. IF the connection is not secured properly, the brakes could be not effective and the acceleration erratic. Maybe all my issues was coming from there. My car is currently being serviced and I should get it back in a few days. Hope it will fix everything ! BTW, the replacement of all this cost 894€. Hopefully I won't pay anything because the car was bought from them only 2 weeks before.

Thanks for your feedback. As per the car history, the servicing was done previously only by the age, not the mileage as the previous owner wasn't driving that much long distances. They told me they will do oil change before i pick up the car. When I opened the bonnet, I saw a sticky note mentioning "oil" and "brake fluid" changes done last Friday. So i think they did not just checked the brake fluid but performed some servicing. I'll check this setting. Do you think changing those could improve low torque under 2K ? Clearly I was almost always running in 3th gear before any roundabout but now i need 2th gear, even 1st sometimes. When I took a roundabout in 3th gear, the car is almost staling and pushing the accelerator is doing nothing til 1,5sec, maybe 2. Until 2K, it's almost irresponsive

Hello Everyone, Proud owner of a former Octi 2 for 10 years, I bought a 2017 Skoda Rapid Spaceback (110 HP) after a car accident with my Octy (wasn't responsible). I Like the car, but I have a couple of issues though : - I found the braking very soft compared to my Octavia. I was used to hard braking which helped me in situations to avoid cats / dogs or pedestrians. The pedal is a little spongy. I have to press really hard to stop the car, but even when pressing hard, I found the braking distance too high. The brake liquid has been purged last week and a global technical control has been done. How is the braking on your Rapid ? is this normal behavior ? - I also found the car to be very sleepy under 2000 rpm. I don't know if it is due to the new 3 cylinders motors ? Despite 110 HP, the car is behaving like a Diesel (no much energy after 4K RPM) but without the good torque it provides. I was more used to a linear motor which never stops pushing you forward. The maintenance has just been done, car is like new and only 33K kilometers. Is there anything I could check or improve ? Thanks

Any news on this ?

Is it possible to have the Maxidot from a Passat (on a 2011 FL octavia) ? The one with full color and so on ? I asked this question on another forum and no one replied at that time. It was about 6-7 months ago.

If this would have been mandatory, i wouldn't have to pay 99€ to buy a cable and VCDS to activate it. This should have been done from start by the dealer. By the way, he didn't accept to activate it before the next check-up appointment (about 2000 miles). He was not verry concerned about legislation with this lazzy attitude Lots of French cars are very old and dangerous. I can't imagine beeing arrested by a policeman for some DRL not switch ON, when others drivers don't have headlights at all or seatbelt :(

That's it. If you don't have the AUTO mode (rain captor / light sensor), your only choice is to deactivate them through Maxidot, or with the stalk indicator, or even with VCDS if you don't want them anymore

but it's not deactivated. It's just that i'm in OFF position. As soon as i select the AUTO mode, DRL works (except at night, of course...)

No, "O" means "OFF". Without DRL, if you have your light-switch on the OFF position (the first on the left), no lights are working at all. Nothing. On sidelights, only sidelights are working. On Headlights, ony headlights / sidelights are working. By default, if you activate DRL (with separate dedicated light in fog housing), it works anytime ignition is on. I thought this was annoying because as a human, OFF means OFF. So no lights at all. If you have the "AUTO" position (with light sensor / rain captor), lights are switched on / off automatically. You can tell VCDS that you want your DRL to only work when your light-switch is in this position (auto). As a result, the "OFF" position will no longer activate your DRL and works like it should. Off position, no lights at all.

Thanks for all everybody ! Solution in post 3 works like a charm. You must have the 4 positions switch however (the one with "AUTO"). I can now switch off everything with the "O" position. Thank you so much !

- @JR RS : i activated it with VCDS and unfortunately i still don't have the option in maxi-dot. Even with that, it's less user-friendly than having to switch OFF all the lights - @pz1811 : yes, i do have the 4 positions switch : 0FF;AUTO;sidelights;headlights - @fuel consumption for others : www.swov.nl/rapport/Factsheets/UK/FS_DRL.pdf (see "Does DRL have any disadvantages ?"). Anyway, please help us discussed about a solution maybe with VCDS. My main point is not fuel consumption. DRL are cool.

Ok just to argue a little : - i'm not looking for a design effect. It's just that DRL are using more fuel. When i'm coming to my office, i only have a few miles to do, and it's not necessary to have DRL, believe me. However, on a long trip, i would like to have it because YES, i need others to see me well. That's why i would like the OFF position to work. Last thing, that will make others laugh about : - your in winter. Parked with your girlfriend for example in a supermarket parking or whatever. You need a little heat so you start your engine to let the climatronic rise the temperature of the vehicule. If you do that with DRL turned on each time ignition is on, you will just be like a merry-go-round at night. lol, not so good to make "your things", know what i mean ?

Hello, I've activated DRL through VCDS. However, even when my lights-switch is turned OFF, it's still working ? is it possible to have DRL : - working only in AUTO position ? - turned off when light switch is on "O" position. - stop working when all other lights are turned on (this is how it works for me right now so that's ok) Thank you. (Octavia II FL late 2011)