drew_smith

Sorry to bring thos back up. Just to confirm, am I correct there is only 3 resistors needed. one for SAI and two for the N249 and 112. so 3 on total???

yeah iv seen some videos on making a boost leak test kit. Think I will go that route Thanks

Mine is definitely under boosting then. I can hear a hissing from the right hand side when I accelerate

Thanks very much. that confirmed my suspicion. But my next question!! What should a revo stage 1 remap produce. taking in mind iv just jad a brand new borg amd warner genuine k03s turbo fitted Thanks

Ok If someone could help please. I have borrowed my friends bluetooth Odb11 reader for the reason that I think my car lacks power and boost. So iv connected the odb11 and used the boost widget and im only getting a boost of around 12.25 psi My car is remapped to stage1 revo. Now my next question is. with it being bluetooth and not mechanical like a boost guage, will it give a correct reading if there is a boost leak??? Please help x

cheers dude will check it out

I will check it out. the window has not been opened for a while so think I will take it apart as it could always be jammed

Hi people. Im quite sure this has been covered before so I'm sorry if it has but I cant find an exact post. Anyway! Iv gone to wind my rear drivers electric windows down today from the front "this also goes for trying from the back" on my octavia vrs mk1 and all I get is a slight click sound and the window does not move. Iv previously had to replace my front before as the cable went and I could hear the motor turning which said it was not the motor. But the strange thing is with my rear window is that it is firmly in the up position and it wont go down. you cant even push it down with your hands either side of the window. All others window work fine, the only noise I get is a slight click. Can anyone please shine a light on this problem. Much appreciated Drew

Hi mate and thanks for your reply The main reason I want to do it is so I can have the bottom and top end built at the same time as Im starting to notice rattle in mine. And getting a stroker kit with all its parts and boring the block seems to cover rebuilding my engine Obviously there are going to be some new ancillary parts gettong put on. iv seen a kit that does not need to have the clearnce changed for the new crank and with the set up im looking at it also does not need to have a modification for the oil pump. Iv literally just had a new ko3s genuine turbo put in mine. so im thinking get the stroker kit installed with my current turbo, then after when i decide which turbo to go with i can then upgrade. Whats your thoughts Also if you have any good infor from any sites in regards to strokers and where to buy them id appreciate that. Thanks

Hi people. Im sure this post may of been covered before but I cant seem to find any info on it. I have my trusty 1.8t vrs 52 plate and im trying to find out which is the best route to take of either a stroker kit or to rebuild my top and bottom end. also if I rebuilt my top and bottom end would I benefit from having a hybrid turbo, or would going down the route of the stroker kit be the better option as this is bacically a engine rebuild. Also if i was to get the stroker kit what turbo would be a good option. and on the other hand if i was to just rebuild top and bottom, Ie new bearings and cam would there be much different in power with a hybrid compared to the stroker with a gt turbo Im seriously looking at getting this done next year so any advise would be appreciated Kind regards Drew

Your a Legend. Cheers Fella

Hi. Does anyone happen to know the part number for the front right inner plastic wheel arch cover/Lining with fixings. Your help would be appreciated Kind regards Drew

Cheers fella

Im thinking of doing the SAI delete along with the others. Iv just had a miktek catback and new coilovers. So which induction can you recommend?

Just a quick question. When starting the car first time and the SAI opens and your car sounds more throaty untill the SAI turns off. Is there anyway to get that constant throaty sound, or is it as simple as get a induction kit. Cheers

Problem fixed. Thanks people

And wouldn't you believe it. someone has put silicone in the recess to cover the eml led.

To be honest I have never looked out for it before. and it passed all previous MOT's. Iv never noticed it until this MOT guy flagged it up. Any Ideas what it might be. mine is a octavia vrs mk1 petrol

Quick question guys and girls. I have only noticed today as my car has failed its MOT. My cars EML light does not come on at all when switching on the ignition. I have heard that the LED can sometimes blow. The car goes through it normal sequence of lighting all the dash light when switching the ignition, but the EML does not come on in the sequence. Does anyone have a part number for the led?

i know where you coming from. mine roled like mad when I had standard. iv got some polybush wishbone bushes that are going on when I get the new FARB fitted. Then after that Im going to get a rear one. Not sure which sus yet. Its going in end of month for a miltek non res catback also. Ohhhh the new toys ha ha......

if you can find there number on ebay or message them make sure it fits. Good luck my friend.

cheers fella. I will say it does sway a lot more in cornering. So think I will go with the uprated. Cheers for the info Guys.

Id probably go with the fact they didt care. Now my next question is my car is due for MOT. would this fail it do you think. im guessing it would be down to how knowledgeable the MOT guy is and knowing if he know its the incorrect set up?

Yeah im gutted. I wont be going to that garage again.

Hi mate. thanks for the reply. much appreciated. Im not sure on the size I will have to get under and measure Am I correct in saying that if say for instance the current one is 19mm then I need to get larger bushes or something along those lines as I need to take up the space where the old spacers, or think they may be called sliders are"not sure". can you explain please mate