meta55b

What you’re referring to is, the stability control (ESP) his has been discussed many times on here before.

Going from memory, I’m sure my old 08 plate diesel vrs was cast metal. I certainly don’t remember any alloy parts.

The Diesel vrs will spin up cheap tyres at every opportunity, even in the dry. I always run Michelin premacy’s and even had the sports once, the car could still spin up with they tyres, if you got a bit excited on the rare opportunity that you had no wife or kids in the car.

Are you fitting new callipers or ones from a breakers. Have you greased the runners the callipers sits on from the mounting bracket.

Personally I would stay away from the vw’s vans. Overrated and over valued. For the money you want to spend I’d stick with something from PSA OR Renault. Giving the fact it’s going to france and potentially being sold there and spares are not an issue.

Jack the car up and and get on axle stands, compare the coils. If there both the same visually with the same amount of coil, ones probably fatigued and done. Change them in pairs, never single, you’ll just case the same issue but reverse if you do. You can download Haynes manuals now.

This could still well be driveshafts. Even if they are new, they are all re-con units theses days and a lot of them out there for sale are junk. I previously worked in the motor parts sector for a long time and come across some bad re-con companies, some so bad it was unbelievable. The 2 most reliable brands back then were AMK and GKN. That was along time ago and even brands I had every confidence in then, I wouldn’t recommend to an enemy these days.

That bit that’s missing is held in by a bolt, that’s only accessible when the door is open. That’s a weird one.

That’s pretty bad for the miles the car has done. Darkside definitely know what they’re doing.

55000 might seem low for a clutch needing replaced but you have no idea how the owners before you drove the car. Take the car back to the garage who carried out the repair and speak to them, did you tell them it was the clutch or did they diagnose a faulty clutch?. You have no case against Skoda for a clutch, mileage means nothing when It comes to clutches and going by the price of the car, it’s out of warranty. There’s a good video on YouTube, from a guy called Diagnose Dan, who strips down a polo dsg gear box with the 1.4. The fault might be the gear actuator, I’m sure there is a specific way you have to re-set them.

Etka web page. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiag5Xr4IvqAhV7QkEAHYc2CzMQFjAWegQIBBAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fnemigaparts.com%2Fcat_spares%2Fetka%2F&usg=AOvVaw1paIj83AhHV3j_x-AQkuQf

Is it number 15 in the attached pictures. No idea what the last one, without the number is though lol.

The ones i have dealings with are air to water. Only forwarding the info from what I’m told by the tenants, repair history’s and engineers comments.

From my own personal experience with air source heating, don’t. I have about 300 houses out of about a 1200, that I have to deal with, that were installed with air source and there’s constant callouts for breakdowns and repairs. An engineer once told me that the Daikin are terrible and should have installed the Mitsubishi ones, His word not mine.

I’m sure there is a post on here somewhere, from a guy named Mike, I think that was his name. He installed the full footwell lighting to his car and gave a full detailed installation as how to do it.

It’s coming from the doors. Very common problem on the mk2. When the doors are closed, the drain holes are blocked by the door seals. The water then builds up in the door and overflows from behind the door card, down onto the kick plate then into the car. This has been covers many times on the forum.

Good luck with this job. It takes ages, stripping the whole front of the car down to get at the condenser. It’s not hard, just time consuming. One bit off advice I would give, mark with a pencil, all the bolts locations on the front panel that holds all the radiators and were the bonnet closes onto. Especially the 2x top side ones for the front wings. Get this wrong, it makes the closing of the bonnet quite hard.

I bought June registered 08 plate diesel vrs, it was given a cr engine. I believe this is when the cr engines were fitted to the Octavias.

Unless you go battering the glass or hit with a metal object, you’ll be fine. That’s what the wedges are for. There plenty clips on YouTube on how to use the kits. The torx screw is accessed from the metal door edge once open, its inline with the handle and very close to the outer panel edge. Once the handle is off, you will see where it goes. It’s a fiddly job and can be time consuming and worth trying this method first before you go down the route of removing the door card and inners. Just make sure you have a good range of big head rivets for the door panel and an ss rivet to re-attach the window runner to the panel A’s it’s under load. If you look at the gap between the handle and the end block on both rear door handles when pulled open, you should see the space in the handle where the small end of the cable wedges on the handle that not working.

Put the wedges between the glass and door to create a bit of space. Use the long flat bar thing (looks like a metal belt) from the gap you created at about a 45 degree angle, push it down till you get to the mech and you will feel a bit of moment and resistance when you hit the lever. Push down and the door opens. Once the door is open, you will see the torx screw on the inner door edge that holds in the block next to the handle. Once this is off, you will see the Bowden cable and where it goes. Use a pair of narrow long nose pliers to put the cable in place on the door loch mech, it pulls in parallel to the ground then re-attach to the door handle, using the wedge on the handle. Tie a bit of fishing line to the Bowden, incase you drop it in the door.

Hi 59p. I had this same problem on my 08 vrs when I had it. The Bowden cable from the exterior door handle to the lock was worn out at the handle end. The cable is about 2 1/2 long with to plastic ends that are different to each other. The lock mech end a half moon and the handle end is rectangular shaped with with slits cut into it to help lock into into the handle when you put the wedge back in. If you get one of them car break-in kits, you will get the door open that way and it’s very easy. There’s no dead locks on, as the car is opened and the door mech is also in the open position. It is possible to carry this repair once you get the door open and get access to the torx screw that holds the handle in, without stripping the interior trim off. I did end up stripping the interior door trim off when I did mine but worked out it wouldn’t need done that way again if I had to do it. As for re-fitting the metal door panel. I bonded nuts to the inside of the door and used matching bolts, as I couldn’t find rivets or rivinuts at the time. You will need a new stainless steel rivet to re-attach the window runner to the metal panel, as aluminium ones are no good and break.

Nice place, been to Olu Dinez 3 times.

http://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/understanding-the-specifications/. Have a look at this, it's pretty straight forward.

Get a picture of the other damage without him knowing, so he doesn't try and get both dings sorted at your cost.

Contact any agent for the anti roll bar, they will list poly bushes.