mynameismud76

Alright guys and girls. Has anyone have any luck removing the brake booster? Have the master cylinder out but struggling with booster removal, there just isn’t any space. Power steering line is first in the way, could free up a inch if wasn’t there. Engine out? Thanks.

Hi guys, Does anyone have a link/part no. for the clip needed on the metal end? cheers

Hi all, came across this and interested to see what everyone thinks. It's from another forum (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/554859-N249-delete-Why-you-should-not-do-it) After few recent posts about N249 delete I decided to write this quick explanation of what N249 is for and why anybody doing "N249 delete" is simply having no idea what he/she is doing beyond anecdotal "my car is so much smoother now" and "no more leaks" you hear here and there. N249 serves two purposes: 1) In light and medium part throttle, where intake manifold pressure is -10inhg to 0psi which is pretty much where normal DD car lives 90% of its life, the N249 enables DVs (diverter valves) and allows air to come unobstructed directly from inlets to up-pipes skipping turbos, ICs and all that piping there. 2) When coming out of heavy load/WOT pull, where there was positive boost developed by turbos, the N249 pre-opens DVs just before throttle closes to route compressed air back into inlets and letting the turbos to freely spin down. With N249 delete you get these side effects with no benefits other than cosmetic changes to top of engine: #1: During normal operating conditions in -10inhg (this is dependent on what spring you have in your DVs though, 710N DVs have 7psi for example) to 0psi with non-functional N249, the DVs stay closed forcing the intake air to go through turbos, ICs, and piping AT ALL TIMES. At this point, there is not enough exhaust flow to positively spin the turbos so the intake air is actually propeling the turbos in kind of reverse fashion and experiences additional pressure drop in ICs. This kills efficiency of engine directly affecting economy. Basically what you do with N249 is you're "deleting" NA mode of operation our cars have with intact N249. Guess why diesel engines get their stellar economy? Due to simple intake tract. Diesels have no throttles so they always take all the air they can, very little obstruction here. Their output is regulated via amount of fuel injected only. My own car with N249 delete felt very weak in that area with actual bucking when cold started and immediately light accelerated. With N249 is a peppy happy NA like car in the light load situations. #2: When coming off-WOT where there is large amount of pressurized air between turbos and throttle, the car without N249 is about to experience what is technically called a turbo surge phenomenon. As throttle closes to practically nothing, the air has nowhere to go as DVs are still closed. It takes about 0.2 - 0.3s for the manifold to develop deep vaccum, evacuate the air from DVs and then for DVs to meanigfully open. That air goes the only route it can, which is back into the turbo which at this point has no forced propelling it anymore. The compressor wheel, shaft and turbine then experiences severe g forces as the assembly brakes from about 150k rpms to nothing within fraction of second. To illustrate this point, here is a graph showing the boost spike at throttle boot MAP sensor (this would NOT be visible on normal boost gauge hooked up to intake manifold). It shows baseline 32-33psi run then a foot off the pedal with associated instant boost spike to 40psi which takes a good moment to fizzle out as it goes back into the turbo and then the DVs open sometime in the middle of boost fall line. Coincidentally, these boost spikes were popping off my TBB pretty reliably so they were pretty severe. One sample = 0.1s.

Hi all, Almost read to do the deletes and have found this Youtube clip making this little project even clearer: Hope others might find it useful. Does anyone know what's are the two lines he pulled from behind the coolant reservoir? Cheers.

Hi guys, Thanks for the write up Bowders, can't wait to do this to mine. Could a leak in this SAI or related areas be cause to my loss of power? I don't seem to get the same amount of power, used to touch the peddle and can feel the torque building up quite quickly, now it's just mostly flat and almost have to wind it up to change gear. Occasionally some of the power comes back, but not like before. My fuel economy is rubbish too, I guess the engine is running real rich as the fuel isn't getting the necessary amount of air to burn it. Grrrrrr

Hi, glad it's not a bank breaker. Just curious, how was she running before the fix? How was the performance and fuel economy? cheers.

Does it fail around the plug? Is there a part number for the replacement wiring? cheers

love this tyre, so sure footed in the wet. shame it seems to wear rate seems progressively quicker. sweet boots though! what pressures are you all running?

ah natural assumption brother, thanks for everyone's help though! second type ordered

thanks buddy, English isn't my first language man, my eyes probably needs testing too. cheers

oh is that because the second type is impossible to get to?

so it could be either one...

cheers jimbling. i've not been able to have a proper look, would a knackered 1st type make the same noise as a knackered 2nd type?

Hi guys, My mechanic mate diagnosed the knocking coming from the front is from a knackered front drop link. Have found these listed on eBay but not sure which my 04 mk1 vrs needs: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANTI-ROLL-BAR-ROD-STRUT-STABILISER-DROP-LINK-FRONT-LH-RH-6497-/151174881359?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda%7CModel%3AOctavia%7CCars+Year%3A2004%7CPlat_Gen%3A1U2%7CCars+Type%3ARS+1.8+T&hash=item2332b9a04f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Skoda-Octavia-1996-2009-Front-Anti-Roll-Bar-Stabiliser-Drop-Link-Rod-6556-7-/160951726621?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda%7CModel%3AOctavia%7CCars+Year%3A2004%7CPlat_Gen%3A1U2%7CCars+Type%3ARS+1.8+T&hash=item257978721d Are these just metal and plastic versions of the same part? It's confusing as the plastic looks short and stubby and the metal version looks much longer. Lastly are there any budget brands I should stay away from? cheers for all advice guys.

Cheers, valid points. Not being able to take a lot of time off and depending on this car for commutes are the main driving force for DIY, as well as saving labour. If any body repair and respray folks like to PM me with a rough estimate, I'd appreciate it.

Hi guys I've got minor (seems like surface only) rust patches on the leading edge of the rear arch. I'm a sheet metal worker so quick comfortable about tackling this myself. But chemicals wise, I don't know where to begin. Could you kind gents (and ladies) recommend primers and paints? Are Halfords ones any good? Have attached some pictures just incase there's something I've missed. All advice welcome and appreciated =) Mud

Anybody running RedStuff or GreenStuff? Are they any good?

Lucky find it was. Once the end part (near bonnet hinge) of the scuttle plate was freed without breaking, it was easier to remove. Even then, I didn't bother removing it completely: just enough to access the filters. Was so sure the scuttle plate was going to snap...by some miracle...

=)

=)

Cheers fellas. Was a little confused by the difference in price. Couldn't really see the difference in the two kits, except one is pollen, the other is pollution.

Hi guys, Apologies for noob question: which service kit do I need for my '04 VRS? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320856755885?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#vi-ilComp or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380415034071?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Is there a difference between pollution and pollen filter? Cheers in advance. =)

Reminds me of Getaway in Stockholm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYmyWkTGAIM

Sorry, but the video is said to be private =( How does one readjust the gear select linkages please?

Thanks for the great info guys, shall look into all after exams. Could the split CCV/PCV pipe explain why acceleration is a little not smooth?