SMurphy2000

This is just a quick summary of my experience when my instrument cluster lights and other dash lights stopped working on my 2013 Skoda Rapid. My instrument cluster back lights and other dash lights such as radio button lights and hazard button light stopped working. On further investigation I also found my tail lights and number plate lights were also out, although break lights and indicators were working fine. These are all on Fuse 35 (Large 5A) which had blown causing this problem, but on replacing the fuse everything worked for 30 seconds or so then it blew again. On inspecting the lights I noticed a lot of blue (typical of corroded copper) inside one of my number plate lights. Upon removal all the copper that made up the bulb holder was rotten, and had even damaged the plug on the wiring loom. Disconnecting this light and testing again (after cleaning up the plug and removing the broken pins stuck in it) got everything back up and running. It seems water was getting into the light and has actually caused quite a bit of bubbling paint around both number plate lights, so keep an eye on your tail gates for rusting. Thought it was a bit strange these things being on the same circuit, but it is a good way of letting you know your tail lights are out... if you know that's what it means.

It's not a job I've dont myself, so not 100% sure what could be going on. Does it look like it's just the way everything is hanging thats causing the problem? May be worth trying putting the jack (or a couple of jacks) under the wishbones and seeing if you can get them sitting in a better position to pulling things to where they need to be.

May seem like a daft question, but how have you got the car jacked up? When I was replacing bushes on my old Vectra I had to lift the whole backend to get stuff back together. Jacking one side just pushed everything about when it was un-done.

I got a good deal on a set of facelift tail lights, so snapped them up thinking it would be a nice easy upgrade for my 2000 Octavia. Just fitted them and discovered they are a bit longer than the pre-facelift ones, so the plastic panels that slide in under the lights no longer fit. By the looks of it I'll need to get the facelift rear bumper with the newer plastic panels. However I don't want to go ahead and do that, to just discover there is something else that’s changed or that it is just the plastic panels I need. So, can anyone tell me if I; Just need to get the shorter plastic panels Need the shorter panels and bumper Need so much stuff I should just go back to my old lights :P. Cheers

Managed to get my camera in and get a shot of the back of the caliper. After giving it a quick clean with a small wire brush I can see its a 41mm piston which is on my car. Encase anyone else is wondering here is the image showing the number just above the arm the handbrake cable attaches to. My handbrake is on in this picture, don't know if being off will move the arm in the way of the number or not.

Just been changing the front and rear discs and pads on my Octavia. Had a hell of a bother getting one of the rear calper pistons back in, but managed it. However in the proesss I managed to burst the rubber cover that is around the piston. Does anyone know if I can get one of those rubber things by its self, or are they only in the rebuild kits? Seen two kits on ebay but not sure what size the piston is (not got the car at the house to look), so does anyone know what is the right kit of a 2000 TDI (110hp version). 38mm piston: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-REAR-CALIPER-REPAIR-KIT-MODELS-WITH-38mm-CALIPER-PISTON-BCK3843N-/230970211511?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c6e5bcb7 41mm piston: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-REAR-CALIPER-REPAIR-KIT-MODELS-WITH-41mm-CALIPER-PISTON-BCK4101A-/230970214364?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c6e5c7dc Cheers, Scott

I was not sure if there are specific bits to re-solder so I just went over everything I could. Obvously the chips are hard to do as a slight wrong move will bridge the pins together. As long as you have a pointed bit for your soldering iron, a steady hand and loads of patients you should be able to do it. I did reach in and get the bits I could, but my soldering iron has a screw on it which holds the end in so that was stopping me from getting to some parts without melting the plastic. Thanks for the link. Will have a read at it and post back how I get on.

I put the fuse back in and none of my dials worked. So tongiht I took the instrument cluster out and went over all the solder joints I could (avoided ones where I may have knocked the component off or that were very close together) on teh back of the board. The dials now all work with fuse 15 in, though when I took it for a quick drive all the dials did did to zero them come right back to where they were suppose to be. Will leave fuse 15 in to see how it goes. What I am wondering though is how easy it is to remove the needles so I can re-solder the components on the other side of the board. Do they just pull off, and if do what is the best way to do it without damaging them. Had a look at them but they seem quite tight.

Thanks for your help. Will try putting that fuse back in and see what happens. Found a post that shows what solder joints get dry, so if I have problems after putting the fuse back in I'll re-solder those spots.

Do you mean a fuse for the instrument cluster in the fuse box that someone has taken out, or a fuse built into the instrument cluster that gets "taken out" when the solder dries up? Been on quite a few forums recently (looking into building a car PC) and the way some people talk/type gets quite confusing... EDIT: Scratch that, been doing some more reading into the fuses and found some posts about removing fuse 15. Guess that is the one you mean.

Just got my first Skoda, a 2000 Octavia 1.9 TDI. Been fantastic so far but the clock, trip, etc... all get reset whenever I turn off the ignition. The guy I bought it from just put a new battery in it so is there a wire he has forgot to re-attatch, or possibly a loose wire going into the instrument cluster or is there a memory battery or something built into the instrument cluster? Don't want to just start ripping into my dash so hope one of you guys have had this problem before.