ChrisWerrett

Sorry, I forgot to reply to this! I've managed to get it all sorted. I checked all the connectors for the doors and there was a bit of corrosion on some of the pins. I cleaned everything up with WD40 contact cleaner. I changed the comfort module too and everything is working (almost) perfectly again. I'm still getting a little bit of flickering on my interior lights, but I'm planning to take the module out and give that a clean too as I think there is a poor connection inside. I've also resealed the back doors. they had been done at some point but the silicone hadn't been applied that well so there was a bit of water coming through. thanks again for your help!

I've not checked the bellows yet. I ran out of light today but that's on my list of things to do after seeing a few mentions on here and youtube. There was a bit of corrosion on the pins for the boot latch in the lid but the switch seemed to be working OK: if I operated the latch with a screwdriver I could see the boot open light going on and off on the dash as it should. I think there was a washer fluid leak at one point which probably caused this but I fixed it years ago. What's the best way of cleaning up the pins if there is a bit of corrosion on them?

I've owned the car over 10 years but its been sitting on the drive most of the last year, and not had a whole lot of love for the last 3 years or so. I've got a transporter campervan which has taken up most of my time and a fair bit of money, but I'm trying to make a bit of time and effort to get the car back up to a good standard this year. It's a good fun little run around. The issues have become more of an prominent over the last year or so, first it was the odd time something wouldn't work then it's got worse and worse! I do need to properly seal the back doors, there has been some pretty bad leaking and condensation in the car and it's on my list to do this week. I've got the comfort control module because I thought the one in there might have corroded as you say, I actually started looking into it after seeing someone with a similar issue on their transporter and it turned out their comfort control unit was really corroded. Their problems with their van were similar to what I'd been struggling with with the car. Do you know whether I will need to get the new comfort control module programed in if I swap them?

Hi Pete, thanks for your comment. The part I have bought is 6Q1 937 049 D It's the module that sits under the dash above the ODB port as for as I'm aware (Ive not taken my current module out just yet). Looking forwards to hearing your thoughts on it tomorrow.

I'm Looking for some help with some electrical problems with my interior lights, locks and boot mechanism on my 2004 Fabia vRS. My boot hasn't really worked for the the past 6 months or so. I've recently replaced the servo and it works now, well sort of. The riddle I am trying to solve is as follows. When the car is running the boot switch works, if i switch it off it doesn't, when i switch it back on it continues to not work until I have opened the doors going round the car starting at the drives door, OS passenger door, N/S passenger door. once I have opened the N/S passenger door and the car is running the boot opens again. If I lock the car and press the boot button on the fob it works, if I unlock the car then try and open the boot, it doesn't work. My interior lights and door lights are also not working, however when I open the drivers door and headlight lights are on the tone sounds when the car is switched off, suggesting the micro switch in the door is working. When I open each door in turn with the engine on I can see the open door Icon illuminating on the dash, suggesting each microswitch is working. if the car is turned off no door light is visible.. I can't remember if it ever did illuminate without the key in the ignition? all doors lock as they should with the fob. Immobiliser LED flashing and all seems to work fine. If I flick the switch on my interior lights to on, then close and lock the doors the interior lights come on. when I unlock the doors they go off. basically the exact opposite of what the should be doing. I've bought a replacement comfort control module but haven't fitted it yet. Is this likely to be a CCM issue or something else? Keen to get some thoughts on this as I don't know where to start with this strange problem and I don't want to start replacing microswitches and dismantling to doors unless I really have to. Any help much appreciated. Chris

Might pop along for a bit coilovers and big brakes should be on by then

I've taken my EGR valve out and replaced it with the Allard aluminium delete pipe. you will need to get it mapped out (£30ish) though as the Engine management light will come on otherwise. I haven't noticed any massive performance gain but it does drive smoothly and there's much less gunk in the pipes.. however there isn't any real need to take it out unless it's leaking or broken anyway, as Matt says, just cleaning it up is fine It may also be worth checking for any leaks in your boost pipes, the stock seals aren't the best, and leaks result in power loss.

There's not a great deal you can do for a big power increase for cheap.. an induction kit might give you a few extra horses but other than that it starts getting expensive.. I had a 1.4 mpi, and the best upgrade by far was to save my money and buy a vRS.. As Ken says, use the brakes less, I found this the only way to get around the lack of acceleration :P Chris

If you have 2 or more cars in your family or address the Admiral multicar policy can work out as a money saver for everyone!

Have a look in the regional meets section mate. There'll probably be a few around your way!

This is the place to find the answer! have a look in the Superb section of the forums, there may be a thread on the subject already or you could always start a new thread! Chris

Sorry man didn't mean to cause any offence. It is a good thing to consider, I agree. And yes my car does go quicker, is more fun to drive and i do get better mpg.. that was why I got a map, as most people who get a map do.. however I still stick to the speed limits generally speaking, the roads aren't a race track so you don't need to speed everywhere just because you have a faster car.. I think that was my point.. Just because you can go faster doesn't mean you should, unless you're somewhere where it's safe to do so

This seems like silly logic to me, there is no need to upgrade the brakes along with the map unless they are already on their way out.. you should not be driving 20% faster or braking 20% later so they aren't needed straight away. I have a 312mm set to go on as my standard disks and pads are beginning to wear down, that's 12,000 miles after mapping and I've lived to tell the tail.. by all means it's a good upgrade but not a necessity. the PD160 intake is another waste of money IMHO, running the car on a dyno without an air filter at all shows a negligible increase in power (less than the dyno can measure) compared to with the filter, box and standard intake. if you do wish to upgrade, you can make you own cold air feed for a fraction of the price of a PD160 with some plastic pipe etc.. the Jabbasport cone in a box sounds nice too and keeps things looking tidy under the bonnet.. but yet again offers little performance gain from what i've noticed..

I'm getting the same but I have a faulty temperature sensor in the engine so putting it down to that. the original ones are known for giving false readings according to the chap who does my diagnostics and remapping.. might be worth plugging it in to see if any fault codes come up..

I'll be heading through Bristol in the morning so let me know any plans

Ok then, i'll head for michaelwood for about 7am

Here is the location of cribs MacDonald's in relation to the m5

Where are we meeting at cribs? There are a lot of car parks can I suggest the MacDonald's at cribs? Might be a good breakfast opportunity if it's open

Any chance of 2 free tickets? would be happy to pick up on the day! sorry its a bit late

you're doing a fab job on the car How are you finding the tyres? I'm thinking of getting a set, however i don't know anyone who's using them.. I've heard they're awesome in the dry but a bit crap in the wet, so it'd be good to know what they're like from someone who's actually has them.. Chris

what campsite are you staying at?

Hey guys what is the plan for tomorrow? i would like to come along does anyone have any contact info they're willing to give me? I'm based in cheddar but need to know where and when you are leaving tomorrow

I'm currently looking into getting 2 of these.. not sure which but means you still have your boot space http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1311&_nkw=underseat+subwoofer&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Chris

You can quite comfortably use 6th at 40-50.. mine even trundles along at 35 in 6th without causing trouble and 30 in 5th.. different cars have different gear ratios OC I get about 55mpg most of the time on bendy country roads going between 40 and 60 in gears 5 and 6.. at 80 on the motorway i get about 50 ish.. goes up obviously when you hit the variable speed limits this improves .. In regards to the Autobahn, mine drops to about 35 to 40mpg at about 115 to 120mph as i say depends on the gear ratios Chris

Cheers guys! I don't think grounding works on these newer head units. The software is programmed to stop people doing it :/ I'll have a look into a bypass relay, I've had a look round about on the web but thought ask here too seeing as people might have done it in a fabia