bettysan

Management system stores history. Not a problem.

If yours is anything like mine (I'm assuming it is, since you've got a 16v 1.4) there will be two fasteners on a flange, attaching the pipe to the inlet manifold. The pipe continues beyond the flange and sticks into the inlet manifold for maybe half an inch. Just pull it out. Hard to describe, but you'll probably then have to roll it over a bit to get clearance to get the EGR valve unit off. I should add that you don't need to remove the aluminium casting that joins the EGR valve body to the exhaust manifold. You can leave that alone. Once the shiny pipe is off the EGR valve will just pull away.

Got mould on the rear door cards. Have tried mould killer spray, brushing, vinegar and hoovering. None of these worked for long, the mould just came straight back. Might try the steam cleaner idea - never thought of that.

I have the same model Fabia as you and I've removed my EGR valve twice now to clean it out. You need to unfasten the shiny metal pipe that goes between the inlet manifold and the EGR valve. No need to take it right off, just get it loose so that you can pull it off the EGR valve. It is a bit of a tight fit and you'll have to waggle and twist it about. It is also held by a clip about half way along. Once you have the pipe undone you can remove the EGR valve. Use carb cleaner to spray it out inside, and wipe off the carbon. A good supply of cotton buds is handy for this. You will find that there is a rod inside that moves to and fro and seals into the body of the valve. Move it out of the way and spray carb cleaner into the aperture where the rod goes, and keep working the rod to and fro. Check the metal tube itself for blockages. Some people find them gunged up inside. Mine was clear. Replacing the tube is a bit fiddly due to limited access but it will go back - just take your time. You will need to clear the fault code to stop the warning light showing. I used a cheap hand held code reader off eBay. Note - the first time I cleaned the EGR valve I only removed the obvious carbon from inside the body but didn't do anything with where the internal rod goes. The fault came back after a couple of months. The second time I cleaned the rod area mentioned above and the problem has not come back after 4 months so far. Good luck.

I've got the 16v 1.4 model and 97/98 octane is recommended for it. It certainly runs better on that than on the low octane supermarket stuff. MPG is better as well, so it doen't actually cost me more in the long run to buy the better petrol.

Thanks Karl - very handy. I have it ready to print out.

Coathanger wire might be a bit on the thin side, but you could try. Something a bit thicker would be better. I happened to have some some mild steel rod, just a bit thicker than coat hanger stuff. All you need to do is bend one end of the wire/rod to go under the top of the coil pack, and bend the other end to give you something to pull on. Mine came off easily. Also, it will help if you undo the plastic clips that hold the wires to the coil packs first. No need to unplug the coil packs from their wires (on the 1.4, at any rate). They can be laid to one side while you change the plugs.

In my Haynes manual it says just make up a 'tool' from a bit of welding rod. You just need some stiff wire and bend it into an L shape. Put the short part of the L under the coil pack and tug hard, upwards. Worked for me. No need whatsoever for a special tool. Hope this helps.

There's something built into the sysem to stop you from over revving and damaging the engine. I get it on mine occasionally when I 'forget myself' in 3rd.

My EPC light would very occasionally come on during slow manoevres like reversing and the engine would often stall at these times. Light would clear if I turned ignition off and then on. Then recently the EPC light came on all the time. Was getting poor tickover, hunting and stalling. Car felt down on power at higher speeds. Fixed it by replacing the MAP sensor. Feels like a different car now. The old MAP sensor was dirty. Might have been able to clean it, but since I'd already bought a new one I fitted that. Edit - I should add that I did a scan with my cheapo code reader, £12 off eBay. It said MAP sensor was at fault. Was also able to remove the fault code (and warning light) afterwards with this. All is still fine a month after the fix. Car is now so much better to drive. (2004 Fabia 1.4 16v, petrol, BBZ engine).