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As dfirman above states, NFTS formatted SD /USB sticks may apparently work. I can confirm that NFTS works just fine. Can't speak for other formats as I just went straight in and tried it on NFTS (dispite what the instructions said). It worked with zero issues.

You should be able to open the door, then with foot on foot brake, release the EPB. If you select gear prior to releasing the brake that should also work. Can't remember if I had to turn the ESP off or not...but keep trying as it is probably in there. I know it could be done on my 2016 Superb SE L without programming. I also discovered that opening the door hurts also like a b£@&h when you are not expecting it to stop! Unfortunately, I can not go out and check for you as I now drive a 2017 Ford Shiπ€MAX.... We had a 3rd sproglet and discovered (much to my horror) that 3 childseats do not fit so well in the Superb when they are ISOFIX! That was a very bad day. My Ford is an "almost" good car, but it appears that the product development team didn't finish the job, or decided about 6mths before they signed it off as ready for production! I miss my Superb.

With an oil filter smaller than a coke tin, changing it at 6000 miles like I did shocked me with its condition. Oil will last, the filter is the first to go, then the bypass valve opens and you carry on another 5k miles or more. Over service we'll set the engine up for a long life.

If the council cover all costs of all repairs then happy days. As for the bad dealership and Skoda customer care / Skoda Assist etc, a carefully worded letter (stating hours lost at work for no service & multiple trips = lost pay as a result etc) to both them, and the AutoCar/Whatcar/Auto Express help pages would be my starting point. Auto Express are good (I think) so start there. They should be able to put the cat amongst the pigeons. With the Magazines expertise in this area, their weight might be able to squeeze a free service, or voucher / cash value back from Skoda as a good will gesture. You said that dealership had served you well for many years, they might just have to agree that your experience was s shameful and pay you back in other ways etc. Best of luck anyway, this stuff just happens!

Flat beam is now accepted as some brands with LED headlights don't have a standard pattern, just a general flat base beam. TUV accept flat beam, I do not know if its French equal would accept it. The adaptive function of the xenon headlights does not operate when in travel mode (i.e. a UK car in France), you will only get a flat beam. That was how my 2016 Superb's xenon's operated, I can't speak for the new Kodiaq etc.

I love my music and appreciate a good set of speakers. I was like you, £600 is a lot of dish and couldn't justify it for all the time I'm in the car (mostly weekends only). I am very happy with the standard setup, plenty (enough) of bass and only a touch too much treble for my liking. That was easily sorted using the equaliser, but after a couple of mths I reverted back to flat line across as the board as the speaker's had run in well. Not having heard the Canton, what I haven't had I don't miss. It would also ha e been a wasted option as I'm now having to change my car due to an extra sproglet arriving soon! 3 car seats do not fit safely, so its an SMAX for me! I'm Not happy, but all alternatives were vetoed by my wife. Happy wife happy life they say, I've experienced the not happy wife and do not wish to again! Time will tell if I am right, but the Ford wouldn't have been my choice.

You are correct. Some dealers are unwilling to bring the base height of the light up via the manual adjustment screws. Read 'can't be arsed' IMHO! If you are to adjust your lights yourself, find yourself a Mk 5 Golf, a flat road and as little street lighting as you can. Park directly behind it about 40-50m, or what you consider a safe distance behind a car at 60mph. Make sure your adaptive lighting is set to ECO as that would be your equivalent highway setting where light throw is supposed to be the furthest. Then adjust your beam pattern so it cuts across the middle of the VW badge on the boot (top limit of adjustment), and / or the top edge of the bumper. Somewhere between those two points you'll find your sweet spot. I chose the VW Badge as my top limit, as even with the car fully loaded the beam still cut cleanly across the back of the Golf below its rear window line. I don't like to dazzle anyone (head on or from behind) and actively take note on my lights every time I am out. I was flashed twice after my second adjustment up from standard, so I realigned by dropping 1.5 inch below the VW badge. Zero flashes since and I'm much happier with the range of the lights. At that level, the beam cuts below where most windscreen starts (at about headlight level of most cars) so I know they won't dazzle on coming drivers. Let me add that I checked my headlight levels after my own adjustment by using my workplaces MOT light beam checker the following morning. I was right on the limits but still legal. You set your oen limit, you are responsible if they dazzle, hence why I made use of the tools my works workshop had to offer just to be sure. An independent garage may check yours for you for a small fee. I would recommend it just to be on the safe side.

Auto hold is one of my favourite options. With it on, if I arrive at a set of red lights on the flat and come to a gentle (and I mean gentle stop), the cars brakes remain off and only the laws of physics are stopping my car moving. If I then apply a little more pressure on the brake pedal, the green Autohold light comes on on the dash. As the car is now, I can remove my foot from the brake and relax as the cars brakes are being held on by the Autohold system (via the ABS module I believe). The great thing about this is that on gentle almost imperceptible slopes, there is no risk of you accidentally rolling fwds or backwards into another car etc. If the car does not move in 4mins, or you take your seatbelt off /open any door or turn the ignition off at your destination, the green light turns red and the electric handbrake is engaged! If I engage a gear and release the clutch, Autohold disengages in the same manner the handbrake does, almost imperceptibly. On steeper slopes it can wait a little too long for my likeing tho, but that is a very rare occurrence for most and errs on the side of caution. If I am manoeuvering on any kind of slope, the Autohold system does get in the way. It just isn't designed for carparks or tight spaces where a slope is involved. So in those situations (& after two rubbish attempts at manoeuvering), you remember you can turn Autohold off via its button by the gearstick. (Autohold cannot be coded (it wasn't standard when I bought) as you do need the button for these situations). Hillhold is standard and has been from the start. With Autohold switched off, Hillhold steps in with its auto brake release (pause) after a second or two. This makes manoeuvering on a steep slope (without a manual handbrake) so much easier as it perfect alongside an electric handbrake! Time your clutch bite point's to its release and its as if you were manually releasing the handbrake yourself. I thought I had wasted £110 on Autohold, but after 3 days of use I have trusted it ever since. As for which options to definately pick, if you haven't got lane assist as standard (£850 option I think), then £85 for Traffic sign recognition will get you the hardware you require so a VCDS Guru can code Lane assist for you for beer tokens! I didn't pick it and so coukdnt have lane assist! Grumpy am I still, about that! Enjoy your new wheels, you will love the car as it is indeed, SUPERB!

Both my headlights and taillights do this, with the rear right light holding lots of condensation! Not happy with this, especially the rear lights, but the dealer says it's common enough in the Superb and not to worry They will replace lights it they show any scum during resale.

I think clicking the update button when inside the Smartgate App (& connected to Smartgate network via WiFi direct = half the circle is green) actually updated the cars Smartgate device. I think that's why the update took forever to complete over 3G, it wouldn't do it via my WiFi! The phones App was up to date straight from Play Store, and I do think Samsung's own UI had something to do with it not working first time around. That is probs to do with my 4 year old phone's software and version of Android and not all Samsung's devices.

OK, so had a quick play with this when I picked the car up in May 16. I had no use for WLAN and after a frustrating 1.5hrs of trying (with my Samsung S4) I could not connect to the internet! Fast fwd to 1 week ago; now that I am back living in the UK again, and have a sensible mobile Data allowance (for peanuts in comparison to what the Germans offer for tripple), I tried again. So, cars WLAN on, home (house) WiFi in range, it connects, I turn car WLAN Hotspot on, connect my phone/tablet (whatever to it) but no internet connection!??? Que much head scratching and useless fiddling with settings on everything as I am no techy when it comes to networks! I then think on it, remember that I wasted £85 on the Smartgate option and try that root.... What a mistake! It doesn't like my phone so refuses to play nice. It wouldn't connect to the car whatever I did, WiFi direct or via Android Auto. I then tried my mates S7 Edge to no effect. I then thunk some more on it and decide that my ageing phone might be at fault instead (or Samsung's pants software). So root my now past it S4 and install CyanogenMod on it. I try again with Smartgate and it connects first time. I try to run the Skoda Apps, but as Smartgate is only letting my phone mightconnect to car but not the car to the phone (more than I ever got standard), I high on gave up! Than an fortunate chain of events occurred. I locked myself it of the house but had the car keys. I tried again, all WiFi, via Smartgate etc to no avail until ii downloaded layers Columbus manual. A lot of reading, confusion and a bit more trial and error and somehow I got Smartgate to work (as in it linked to my phone one way at least) by activating *turn on mode without mobile data". I then tried updating the App (or the Smartgate module, the App isn't clear) and if hung forever....but did eventually confirm something was updated! (I believe it was the cars Smartgate module) Immediately, my phone connects to Smartgate and the car to phone for the first time. The two Apps i would us work so happy there as well. I then turn back to the issue by original poster, how to use the Cars WIFI hotspot when connected to your phone or another network. Well, as I'm sat outside home I try again. Car linked to homes WiFi, cars WLAN hotspot active and my tablet (not phone) connected to cars WLAN... Im not expecting anything and do get the response, linked to network, no internet connection from my tablet. I then tried to browse a webpage and wowowowow, it worked! (Tablet still said no internet connection but it worked!) So, as conformation, when sat in Port of Dover the other day waiting for the boat, I connected the cars WLAN to its free hotspot, turned my phones data off and tried linking through the cars WLAN to the web. It worked. I've since tried it in a McDonalds car park via its free speedy O2Wifi hotspot and again success. I do not have the premium WiFi, the plain bargain bucket WLAN is all I hav. I have however discovered its value especially when considered next to using your mobile as a hotspot instead. In the UK that makes sense, but when travelling in EU, if you link your cars WLAN to all the motorway stations free WLAN (where offered), you can get irregular updates to your mobiles for free as you go. Its better than bout, but its a use. Apologises about length of message, i got carried away, just how it helps someone somewhere.

One did this at about 5k'ish so I took it to the dealer. New water pump required so they booked me in 2 weeks later for the work. No problems since, though at the speed it was dropping I suspect it was more than likely just the air bubble syndrome as it took near on 2k to creep down below the level. Did the garage just need the warranty money I wonder, they can't charge Skoda if no fault is found? Sneeky!

Good post thanks. Has anyone managed to get two ISOFIX seats plus one ISOFIX seat (or not) across the back? I have a 2.5 & a 5.5 year old and this car was supposed to be our last for some time as its huge....and big enough for a family of 4 for quite some years yet. However, another little bun is now in the oven and I'm concerned I won't be able to fit a rear facing ISOFIX baby seat on one side, another ISOFIX seat on the other with a seatbelt secured (not attached ISOFIX) centre seat. The reason all three need to be ISOFIX is because one will always travel in the front when I'm not in the car. I specced ISOFIX for the front passenger seat aiming off for this such eventuality. Why I didn't just get the snip I don't know! So, I will need two narrow'ish uprights for 15-36kg and a narrow base rear facing seat, all of which must be ISOFIX. My alternative solution is to use one or more of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017FXG5QW?psc=1 as it's my only other option. Any ideas on eat suitable for my soon to be seating issue? Cheers

915.8 miles from S.England to Belfast and back. Now been for a wash so its shiny once again!

The S3 has electrical power steering which is normally very quite unless you are dry steering or turning the wheel really quickly. Older hydraulic power steering would groan and cavitate if you held the steering wheel against the full lock stop, as it would still be trying to turn the wheels when they could turn no more. It is wise to back it off the full lock stop just a fraction as that stops the cavitation and will extend the life of the pump and rack circuit. As for steering lock angles, maybe the Skoda engineers just wind the stop limit bolts in that little bit further than the VW engineers do. As for the BMW rear wheel drive explanation, you would be right with the better steering lock angles due to no drive shafts getting in the way.

It's the wheels rubbing the inside of the wheel arch on mine. My last 4 Skoda's have done this, they do seem to like giving you a good turning circle compared to others. My mk5 Golf was pants in comparison. If you have the ability to check the car on full lock from underneath, have a look to put your mind at ease.

Yes, same here on drivers door only. Passengers seal perfect while last 2" or top drivers seal not quite against the top of the door! I complained, they said they would rectify it.....but didn't. Will take it elsewhere when I get a moe. I have not experienced any leaking though so yours must be much worse than mine.

6 years wearing winter rubber in Germany highlighted a few differences between summer and winter term tyre pressures. It is advised to run Winter tyres a smidgen higher PSI/BAR than a summer tyre of the same size. 0.2-0.3 BAR is about it, it opens the sipes (little fine grooves in each tread block) up a little to allow them to be stuffed up with snow when it's on the ground. Nothing sticks to snow better than snow, the science doesn't lie and that's what they preach. The gent above is correct, you cannot overcome the laws of physics expecting winter rubber to grip sheet ice. It does actually, but so infinitesimally better that it's barely worth the mention, but add a super light dusting of snow over that ice and the winters will work very well. Snow grips ice so if there is snow wedged in the tyres sipes and grooves, you'll be stopping considerably better than you would on summers! As my German friend who owns the garage I bought my wheels and tyres from says, "it's not the going you should worry about, it's the stopping!" If you are running summer-winter-summer etc, then be sure to run your winters through the summer of their 5th season. In Germany, if your winters are 5 years old and it's snowing during your TÜV, the TÜV guy can either fail you or advise you depending on how much of a that he wants to be. Winter rubber is past its best after 4 years hence you are advised to run them into the ground in their 5th year by running through the summer. That law is not applicable here in blighty so it is down to the user to decide whether to change to new boots. Hope this helps.

ASDA family parking space with empty bay next to me this afternoon. We had just parked and my wife and I were already out the car about to open the rear doors for the youngsters to disembark. A well dressed women with loaded shopping tolley cutting through the empty space, goes ahead and clips the passenger door that my wife is stood behind. She pauses, has the briefest of looks and says "there's no damage, none there" and begins to walk off. I "excuse me" to her and walk round to have a quick look, again she pauses while I have a squint. I didn't see anything on the door panel (which is what I thought she had clouted) so turn to say "ok" when she scoffs and tells me to "oh f'off.... mumbles something" and walks off at a brisk pace. I was about to protest then thought leave it, I couldn't be arsed with her attitude ruining my already so so could be better day. My wife turns up with a trolley for my 2 year old, I lift him from car to trolley and go to close the door. Twas only then that I spotted the chip right on the seam/edge of the door. No paint left at all, I could see the primer. Turn to look for her but can't see her. I wanted to take my 4 cell Maglight out my boot and give her door (or her) a ****, but my wife dragged me off into the shop. Now I need to fork out for touch up paint, not happy at all! Anyhoo, to end on a better note, I wish all you good caring BriSkoda forum members an excellent New Years and prosperous 2017.

All washed, dried and polished by yourself, or by Device Details per chance? One thing I can say is that with all that metal, it takes a while to just to wash it, especially when you have no hose pipe and your house is 30m away from your car! It breaks me every time. Question, is that Petrol Blue or another colour? I am jealous of your sportline good sir.

I write way way too much, apologies everyone!

I drove from SW Erblassen to Belfast via Holyhead in one sitting on 26 Dec. 70% of this was motorway but as outside temp was low the conditions might not have suited a Regen attempt to be triggered. With only engine stopped only for the boat crossing, I noted a DPF Regen in progress only at a non scheduled pee stop on drive up from Du line to Belfast. I left car running (lights off in the noisy car park), ran in did my business essay and resumed my drive north. To assist the Regeneration cycle on resumption on my drive north, I altered my usual ECO driving style and absolutely nailed it (in sport mode) up to 80mph to bring the exhaust temp back up into the right temp zone. Shortly after I disregarded the Navs suggested route home and headed B Road over the hills. 3 minds longer overall and much less fuel efficient, but lower overall speeds, less high-speed windflow in through the radiator grill (to cool everything down), more steep inclines and slow fast slow driving meant plenty of heat being generated for the regen (if it were still in progress or not). Engine oil temp got as high as 116°C, so I definitely made her work hard lugging a fully loaded boot up the hills. This is my 6th car with a DPF, only the 1st Gen Golf Mk5 PD170's ever gave me bother. As most have said above, unless your driving is short and low speed you should leave or to the car to sort out. All I would say is that if you notice a regeneration in progress, (say at the traffic lights, start stop doesn't trigger as normal and engine idle is sitting at 1000rpm) asked your driving to assist the process. Accelerate just a wee bit faster than normal (especially up hills), change gear at higher rpms and avoid 6th if able to do so (until idle rtns to norm). All this should aid the Regen cycle and cause you fewer issues in the future.

Did they turn it on during PDI, i.e. take that part of the cars brain out of transportation mode? It wouldn't be a first and they might not even think to check that part during fault finding. Ask, there may be some red faces and an apology in the somewhere.

The non lighting light is a dummy light cluster, so you would need to purchase a European cluster for that side to work. Only then should a VCDS programmer be able to activate it for you, though my local German dealer stated that it required extra wiring. I cannot confirm if that is the case (the, extra wiring that is), but if you do go down that route and self fit, please let us know.

The Misterons are after you Captain Danny 57!