seanantenbring

Nope, I left the the CH/LH the same as from the factory, dipped beam.

No simple setting I'm afraid, sound like an issue with the microphone. Fingers crossed it'll be sorted quickly when you drop it in. Nice colour! :)

I'm in a fight with VWFS and SUK regarding on going issues with my car since my purchase in December last year. My car has been in the garage the equivalent of once a month for various issues, albeit not major mechanical failure but various different issues varying from rattles/vibrations to touch screen issues with the radio. One issue with a vibration coming from the engine bay they haven''t been able to fix for over 5 months and 7+ visits to the dealers. I'm trying to reject the car but they aren't bending over backwards, they're trying everything in the book and most of all the dealer don't give a monkeys, the one time they had the car they damaged the interior and scratched the drivers door paintwork! I hope you get your issues sorted soon otherwise I might join you in a campaign!

I am in the same boat, loads of issues since I purchased my car in December and almost a year later not all are fixed. I to wish I'd kept my Mk2 and saved my money :( Can you PM me the address of the MD at Skoda please roblatus? I'll be typing something up to send across. Cheers

Hey folks, Just been doing some digging with VCDS and I've been able to increase the brightness of the DRLs on my VRS when the engine isn't running so.... Parking Lights, Coming Home and Leaving Home. Bit of a gimmik but I like the fact they're brighter when the cars unlocked in a shop car park, looks epic! Better still for those who have chosen DRLs and Fogs as CH and LH lights The great thing is they dim back down when the car is started to prevent blinding people. Go into [09] Central Electronics Go to Security Access and enter 31347 Go into Adaptation Search for: Leuchte2SL VLB10-Dimmwert CD 2 35 is the default setting. I set it to to 85 (percentage of brightness). Of course you can play with this yourself! Again search for: Leuchte3SL VRB21-Dimmwert CD 3 35 is the default setting. I set it to to 85 (percentage of brightness). Of course you can play with this yourself! I parked the car on a quiet straight road so I could check the brightness after walking away from the vehicle to get the desired setting I wanted. I haven't seen this on the VCDS guide section so of course if its OK please add this Cheers Sean

Taken mine in and mentioned this and the TSB number and they insist that there is nothing on the system for my car (VRS TDI) and give me the keys back. Are you guys just lucky and they're doing it for you or are there actual notes against your vehicle VIN to be able to get the update? Cheers

Those who have raised their height a little, have you had any issues with MOT and the headlights being too high? I ask as I'm thinking of raising mine a little as find them way to low! If I park them on my what appears to be flat drive and point them at my garage door how much should I raised the cut off by!? How much is too much?

Anyone had any luck with this? Mine still does it and two different dealers just use the "nothing in the logs, nothing we can do" card.

Spoke to Skoda UK regarding this after having my car handed back by my dealer who explained that there was no fault found. Skoda UK say that its a characteristic of the car and it can happen from time to time! hmmm

I'm having this issue with mine, took it in and they kept it to look at and told me nothing logged and Skoda UK report no known faults and no solution. They've given me the car back but don't know where to go from here to be honest!

I find mine too low on dipped also. You can from what I've read put the xenons into learn mode in vcds, adjust the hex bolt on the headlight and then the car knows where to default back too after its dance when you first start. I've never done it but if someone can confirm then I would have a go It has to be done on a flat surface also.

Mine does this and its going in next weekend for it to be looked at again. Skoda UK looking into it also to find out whats causing it. Apparently the factory are testing a new bracket in the engine bay near the sound generator which can cause a vibration when in sport....

Hope you got your VRS today and you love it! Were there hex adjusters on the VRS the same as your GTD? Cheers

No worries, I hope you found it useful! I ended up putting two 3.3uF capacitors in series which gave 1.65uF which for me is spot on and works a treat! I had spare 3.3uF capacitors and wanted to take a tad more mid range from the tweeters after making the first capacitor change in the guide above, so rather than buying more capacitors I just used two of the ones I had which gave me 1.65uF. Why on earth Skoda didn't test the speaker setup properly in the first place I have no idea! Really poor in my opinion and clearly a major quality control issue. I will do the rears when I can be bothered TTFN!

OK, I'll leave it be then Thanks for all your replies.

OK great, look forward to your update Yes, I thought this was fixed now? I assume reverting my changes to 5F will remove the error, suppose its worth a go?

I have this error appear on my car, if I clear the DTCs it comes back. I have modified my MY16 car using VCDS but I was defo using 15.7.3 at the time as I didn't own it before then I have only enabled traffic sign recognition. Does anyone else have this and should I disable traffic sign recognition? I have no issues with the MIB2 menu or anything else, it all works just the below error. 1123593 - Databus U1123 00 [008] - Received Error Message Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 3 Reset counter: 112 Mileage: 5997 km Date: 2015.12.25 Time: 21:57:43 1123600 - predictive route data B1630 02 [008] - Signal Failure Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 67 Reset counter: 116 Mileage: 2072 km Date: 2015.10.25 Time: 08:53:46 1123601 - predictive route data B1630 02 [008] - Signal Failure Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 48 Reset counter: 114 Mileage: 2072 km Date: 2015.10.25 Time: 08:52:58

I will be removing the door again soon to install a different capacitor so I'll take some pictures for you as I work in IT with servers and networks not electronics I only know a little! The reason for removing the door again is I spoke with a sound engineer (much like yourself) at a local music shop which has been around for years and 5 years or so ago used to do high quality car installs. The guy here said most standard car tweeters these days use 2.2uF capacitors so why Skoda thought putting 6.8uF in the Octavia was a good idea he doesn't know! After seeing the car he said the tweeters are rattling at the lower frequencies so needed more of the mid range taking out by using a different capacitor or adding a resistor. I can see this gentlemen's point though as lowering the capacitor to 3.3uF from 6.8uF has made a noticeable difference and although the tweeters are not yet perfect its not far off! This makes me think fitting the 2.2uF capacitor will sort things: A. Because this is supposedly used in most standard car tweeters B. Reducing it from 6.8 to 3.3 has made a big difference already so to take the edge off 2.2 does seem the obvious way to go. I've ordered the resistors and weather/busy life dependent I may swap them over this weekend. I'll post the outcome here once done and if successful update the guide! Cheers

I believe in series. However if you look at the guide you linked you will see a picture of the cap soldered onto the tweeter. I'm currently looking into this further still as after further testing although the sound is improved I still get too much mid range through the tweeters. Do you think going as low as 1uF might help towards this issue?

I would personally put it on the inner panel behind the door card, so to the rear of the door card itself. The metal door frame has various things bolted to it so it would make life harder to shape the dynamat around the cables and equipment. The door card itself you should be able to cut one nice large sheet and stick it to it. Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3snLcxiDEsI and skip to 1:43 and you should see what I mean. This is someone removing the rear door card, pretty much the same as the front passenger door card.

You're welcome. Now I know how to remove the door trim I may install some dynamat myself also. Yes I believe the earlier models suffered a fair bit. Skoda tweaked the newer cars so although improved it still isn't perfect!

No worries, hope you find it useful! Don't do it without the trim removal kit though

I replaced the capacitor in the front doors only. So far so good, the rear doesn't seem to suffer as much in regards to sound distortion. I may do the rear at a later date if I think it requires it but at the moment the rear seems fine.

After purchasing my MK3 VRS I noticed that the sound quality wasn't as good as my previous Mk2 Octy, it sounded somewhat tinny and struggled at higher volumes. I did some research including looking at a few forum posts regarding sound quality on here and found that Briskoda member Atenza had replaced his capacitors for his tweeters and this improved his sound quality. I've decided to create this guide as I found it difficult to find a similar guide on how to take the door card apart. I have today replaced the capacitors for my tweeters and can confirm that the sound quality is much improved (after playing with the equalizer). I also get much more volume compared to before, it'll go much louder before the sound distorts!! 1, Remove the cover for the door handle by pulling on the plastic from the bottom. I did this by hand and there's a picture below of where I'm talking about. 2, Remove the window control switch (Driver side), no need to do this step on the passenger side! Use a flat head screwdriver to press in the plastic tabs and then this will allow you to remove the unit from the door. You can see the plastic tab in the center of the picture below. There's two of these and once pressed you will be able to remove the unit using a trim removal tool to prevent damage to the plastic. Please note that there is a white plastic tab in this area and this doesn't need to be touched just the black ones recessed into the door slightly. You can see the cutout below. 3, Remove the window switch, no need on the drivers side, you only have to unplug the mirror controls here. You can see why below, its to get to one of the screws. 4, There are two screws for the door and you will need an hex screwdriver with a fair length on it to be able to get to one of the screws. Unfortunately I can't tell you the hex size I'm afraid as I had the right size in a set I bought! Both screws are located behind the cover you've just removed from the door. I purchased this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p99722?table=no and this http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p17706?table=no Nice and cheap and does the job perfectly. 5, Now use a trim removal tool to pop the trim away from the door. I purchased this set http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004OEL4LW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 to help me with this, its great, no marks on the paint work at all! Use the picture below to get a rough idea of where the poppers are and in what order to pop them. Be aware of the second picture below, use a number 10 spanner to turn this holder around before popping the door. You'll find it at the very bottom of the door card underneath. 6, After popping all the poppers now lift the door card upwards to remove it out of the slot in the window that the door card sits in. DO THE REVERSE OF THE ABOVE TO PUT THE DOOR TRIM BACK ON. BELOW CONTINUES WITH THE REPLACEMENT OF THE TWEETER CAPACITOR 7, The trim for the tweeters has no screws, you simply push the trim in an upwards direction and it will come off. The cable that runs to the tweeter simply pulls out. 8, De-solder the old capacitor from the tweeter being careful that the solder doesn't cross between the connections. Then solder the new capacitor on using some extra solder. The replacement capacitor I used was an electrolytic bipolar 3.3uF 50V capacitor, you can find these cheap on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201484440772?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The original Skoda one is 6.8uF 50v as you can see in the picture below. 9. Re-attach the tweeter trim back to the car making sure the plastic lugs line up when sliding it back on, see picture below. You'll soon know if the lugs don't line up as the tweeter cover won't be flush with the door shape. 10, Re-attach the door trim going backwards from step 6 to 1. Just a tip. When the door trim is placed back on the car make sure you loosely screw the two screws back to the car before pushing on the trim to force the poppers back in to place. The amount of times the screw fell off my screwdriver! If I'd of re-attached the poppers I'd of had to remove the trim from the door again to get to the screw inside the door. I hope this helps people and above is clear enough. This is my first guide Cheers Sean

Thanks for the feedback! My mk2 vrs had a Shark map and that was good. Just wondered if there was any benefit in a custom map. Looks like I'll be back at Shark at some point! Cheers