monkeylover

Thanks everyone for all your help. I'll take the door apart and see what I end up with - aside from a lot of bits !

Thanks for your reply guys, it looks as though I'll be spending moulaa one way or another. And I've no idea how we coped without remote locking, just the other day I left the whole car unlocked, it seems to have completely thrown me

CL probs seem to be popular, so here's another.... Remotely locking/unlocking works on my MKI vRS on all doors and boot, excluding the drivers door. If I use the key the drivers door unlocks and locks no problem, so the mechanism is ok. I was wondering whether the solenoid may have given up? Any help/ideas would be much appreciated.... Cheers

I was going to buy it from Dawes Devices: http://www.3barracing.com/product_6.htm Obviously,once the required boost levels are achieved I would Loctite the thread to stop it from sliping and getting boost spiking Stuart, i was under the impression that with the manual boost controller it increases the allowed amount of boost before the actuator releases the pressure through the wastegate by reducing the presure to the actuator. Are you saying that the car is already running on the maximum boost level available before the ECU fuel defence cuts in???

Hi All Aside from the obvious price saving, has anyone opted for the boost controller over an ECU remap?

Hi All Bought my '52 Red octavia vRS in Jan, very happy with it aside from the cold starts! Blaming crap fuel for the time being, will swap to BP Ultimate I think. Part exed my Mitsi Fto, so a bit of a change and a big boot! Does anyone have any recommendations as to whether I should fit a manual boost controller? Or has anyone fitted one? Bit of a cheaper option than an ECU remap, but an increased chance of detonation no doubt. :eek: