Hi,

I picked up my vRS yesterday. She went through some changes. New Koni FSD's with original springs, new SuperPro wishbone bushes, anti roll bar chassis bushes, dog bone mount bush, top mounts and bearings. A few months ago I also had a front strut bar, front anti-roll bar and flat bar fitted. So when I picked my car up yesterday I was expecting something 'special' . However, something is still not right. When I drive over a hump and over a hole in a street then the wheels are wobbly not stable. The go left right , left right. I was prepared for a bit more noise inside the car due to dog bone mount bush change, but then can also hear from time to time another noise from underneath the car and it was not there before. It is like a stone that got traped in the exhaust. Another anoying thing is that if I shut the front doors then I can hear the noise coming out from the front of the car under the bonnet.

I am very unhappy and apologise it the description is a bit chaotic.

Many thanks for any suggestions

Another anoying thing is that if I shut the front doors then I can hear the noise coming out from the front of the car under the bonnet.

This sounds very much like the radiator mounts

Nice and cheap from Skoda but can be a pig to fit. Just take your time and dont rush it They are easier to change if you take the bumper off

I hope this helps.

Kind Regards

Garry

Yep, was going to say the same thing.

Sounds like rad mounts.

Part numbers and dealer prices as of September 2008:

1U0121367A x 2 @ £2.14 Each + VAT

1U0121367D x 2 @ £2.14 Each + VAT

Total Price: £10.06 Inc VAT.

Hey GarryC, just noticed your sig. What bhp have you managed with a stage 3 remap?

Depends on the rollers

The car 235 at JBS running 16psi, now running 25psi and got 210 at impossible That said it was going well but hit Boost cut and knocked the power back. Im getting a FMIC fitted to cure this tho

My car was the car they used to develop their 1.8t K03s maps on.

Back on Topic

Garry

25psi on a K03s is quite a lot.

Yep, thats what Mike said. But then its been on the car and like that for the past 4 years

So goes to show that as long as the car is looked after you wont have any problems Car has done 78k miles now and still going strong. Will get the FMIC fitted and put it back on the rollers and see if this makes a difference and cures the boost cut. It does not do it on the road tho, only the rollers

Kind Regards

Garry

also mate have you still got the std zorst?

if so then there might be a stone stuck in the cat protector. just get ut up and you can get it out easy.

I had the same prob. Its a stupid thing to put there ne way as It catches things loke that and the holes are not big enough to let certain things thru

billy

Guys, many many thanks for all you comments. That is really helping to get the idea what might be a problem. Clay I put her on a ramp today with a friend of mine and nothing is trapped underneath. I wonder if this has got anything to do with the dog bone mount bush install. But yes I have a std zorts. Garry I think that you are right on the radatior mounts, it sounds like them lol. Octimark many thanks for the part numbers lol

Yep, thats what Mike said. But then its been on the car and like that for the past 4 years

So goes to show that as long as the car is looked after you wont have any problems Car has done 78k miles now and still going strong. Will get the FMIC fitted and put it back on the rollers and see if this makes a difference and cures the boost cut. It does not do it on the road tho, only the rollers

Kind Regards

Garry

I'll be interested to find out too - mine is on a Custom Code map running 21psi boost (has been for 4 years also)

What sort of FMIC are you going for?

(sorry, :offtopic:)

I'll be interested to find out too - mine is on a Custom Code map running 21psi boost (has been for 4 years also)

What sort of FMIC are you going for?

(sorry, :offtopic:)

I shall keep you posted I am making it myself (similar to the £200 ones people do on here) but i shall be using a std intercooler from a Mitsubishi Evo 10 WRC car (my work has its perks) and i will probably be using a LCR inlet manifold and moving the throttle body to the other end to make the route as direct as possible.

Shall keep you posted.

Garry

apparently that improves power but loses midrange torque so i was told.

Benjie, sorry i dont follow, what has that affect?

Garry

Do you mean it crashes and pitches over bumps? The top mounts/bearings wont do anything, the Koni's may make it a touch worse over the bumps but should feel tauter overall. Have the tracking checked again, the main cause of the crashing/pitching is wide/low profile tyres and stiffer front anri roll/bushes will if anything feed the harshness through more, though it should be marginal. The BIGGEST benifit you can make to the car's setup is a rear anti roll bar eg the whiteline one etc. This also has the affect of improving the ride and stopping the front crashing around so much as the back stop the front from pitching into holes so much. You get a more noticable difference from a RARB than from re-working the entire front end.

Of course, if you have an actual *fault* then it needs fixing, hard to say from your description. My comments apply to cars with 16" wheels and up (15" ride noticably better, somet tyres like the Kumho KH11/15 on 16" will ride as good) and in good standard condition.

Greg.

Hi,

I picked up my vRS yesterday. She went through some changes. New Koni FSD's with original springs, new SuperPro wishbone bushes, anti roll bar chassis bushes, dog bone mount bush, top mounts and bearings. A few months ago I also had a front strut bar, front anti-roll bar and flat bar fitted. So when I picked my car up yesterday I was expecting something 'special' . However, something is still not right. When I drive over a hump and over a hole in a street then the wheels are wobbly not stable. The go left right , left right. I was prepared for a bit more noise inside the car due to dog bone mount bush change, but then can also hear from time to time another noise from underneath the car and it was not there before. It is like a stone that got traped in the exhaust. Another anoying thing is that if I shut the front doors then I can hear the noise coming out from the front of the car under the bonnet.

I am very unhappy and apologise it the description is a bit chaotic.

Many thanks for any suggestions

Em, if you stiffen the frame and springs enough, you will reach a point where your car starts acting like a wobbly pub table, you know, if you hit a pothole with the LHF wheel, it falls into the pot, the wing follows it down instead of staying more or less where it was, and the RHR corner goes up in the air.

Does that describe what your car feels like it's doing?

Benjie, sorry i dont follow, what has that affect?

Garry

the shorter inlet route of using a single pass FMIC and right handed inlet manifold.

Okay i see. Im not sure how that could be the case but is something i shall lookout for.

Thanks

Garry

Garry, I'm not saying this is the case (and it's certainly off-topic), but if the standard Octy intercooler to intake valves routing gives a "tuned length" somewhere around peak torque for the 1.8T, then if you shorten or lengthen that pipe run, it would possibly reduce peak torque due to reduced efficiency at those revs. OTOH it would increase torque somewhere else as long as the run still gives a tuned length somewhere after peak boost pressure is reached.

thta sounds like technical talk for what i was told

Ken, you are correct, i see that in my work here.

My goal is to make a FMIC that uses the shortest possible length (as close to standard as possible). The common route of the "£200 FMIC" is although very good, i feel it can be improved. Rather than have to exit the intercooler, do a 180 degree turn and travel back along the front of the car to the offside, then up into the throttle body. I plan to exit the intercooler and go up into the throttle body at that end, thus saving around 4-5 foot of pipe work

I hope this explains.

Kinf Regards

Garry

4-5 foot is a bit optimistic, more like 2. maybe.

It was a guess

But my aim to to come up with a budget intercooler with the shortest practical route.

I have a space LCR inlet manifold so thats a good start. Its just one option i am considering. If it fails or cant be achieved for some reason then i shall route the inlet down the right hand side of the engine, into the FMIC then up into the stock throttle body and manifold. It should still be shorter than the current route people use

Kind Regards

Garry